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Mikecatt13

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    Mike C

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  1. In addition to the has tube I also replaced the jp ring with standard 3 gas rings. So far so good, we shall see
  2. Sounds like I will be putting the old fashioned 3 piece gas ring set on my bolt as well just to be safe. Again, thanks for the info
  3. Well...I've only got 50 rounds through it so I won't say it's fixed but I'm hopeful. Gonna put a couple hundred through it tomorrow after work to verify. Here's the story: Has block alignment helped a little but still was only about 90-95% lock back. I happened to buy a gas tube when I picked up some spare gas rings today. Ill try to describe the best i can...The tube that was in it didnt have the little "flare" at the end that goes in the gas key. I found that odd because the CMMG I bought today had the flare. So I tube the gas tube off and inserted gently into the gas key then measured how much was of the tube was in the key. The old one was like .930" and the new one with flare was only .750" ish, meaning the new one was sealing more/better. I installed it in the block and put it on the gun with the block loose and put the bolt carrier in to make sure it wasn't going to bind etc with it being tighter, all looked good. So reassembled and so far so good. I'm thinking the GT was the majority of the issue.... I'll update tomorrow when I shoot more rounds but hopefully it's all set and hopefully it helps someone else in the future. Thanks everyone for all the advice and help!
  4. Hmm. Ok. Well I'll see what the gas Blick does and if I gotta try standard 3 gas rings I have a set so I'll keep it as an option
  5. Hopefully the gas block alignment will fix it. I have a hard time believing that a JP enhanced bolt is only good for a couple thousand rounds before the gas ring (s) is junk but if the gas block isn't the ticket than I'll call JP about it
  6. After less than 2000 rounds on a JP enhanced bolt with the single stainless gas ring?
  7. It's protected by my handguard and the screws were nice and tight when I disassembled it. That alignment is when it's all the way against the shoulder on the barrel, so I will probably put a shim in there that way it's not just the screws holding it, it's also pushed against that shoulder but just moved out a touch to center it up. I'll properly align it and test fire later (with some factory ammo at hand should the same problem still be there). Guessing that it was good enough when everything was brand new but after a few thousandths thickness of carbon deposits the gas system is "restricted" just enough that the alignment became an issue? And when I spray it with oil, it must reduce friction just enough to operate fine until that oil burns off a little bit? Gotta work and be productive for a bit lol then I'll reassemble and see what I come up with in testing and report back again. Thanks for the help so far!
  8. It's protected by my handguard and the screws were nice and tight when I disassembled it. That alignment is when it's all the way against the shoulder on the barrel, so I will probably put a shim in there that way it's not just the screws holding it, it's also pushed against that shoulder but just moved out a touch to center it up. I'll properly align it and test fire later (with some factory ammo at hand should the same problem still be there). Guessing that it was good enough when everything was brand new but after a few thousandths thickness of carbon deposits the gas system is "restricted" just enough that the alignment became an issue? And when I spray it with oil, it must reduce friction just enough to operate fine until that oil burns off a little bit? Gotta work and be productive for a bit lol then I'll reassemble and see what I come up with in testing and report back again. Thanks for the help so far!
  9. Here are some pictures of the the amount it's leaking on both ends, I'm guessing that's about normal but again let me know what you think. Also the carbon ring under the gas block, looks like it needs to be moved forward a touch to be centered, is that misaligned enough that it might be the issue?
  10. Sorry I forgot, ammo is reman stuff from a local company Fenix ammunition. Every round through the gun has been the same ammo, 55gr FMJ brass case (around 2950fps I believe it says without looking at the package). I buy 1000-2000 rounds at a time in bulk 500rd packages so if it all hasn't been the same lot, it's been close and it's decent round counts from the same lot
  11. Perfect, I will see what it all looks like tomorrow. I figured thats what that all meant but better safe than sorry. Thanks for the info, I'll report back tomorrow sometime. Appreciate it!
  12. Here's a couple dumb questions... What exactly is the carbon ring I'm supposed to be checking when I take the GB off? What is the best way to check the gas tube for leaking and alignment with the gas key as far as what am I looking for when checking that all that is correct? Just making sure I'm checking all this correctly, im going to get right on it tomorrow and report back. Thanks!
  13. Having some issues with my 3 gun AR, I have decent experience with AR platforms but this is my first "high speed" build and am having some issues and hoping to lean on you with more experience. Here are the specs: Bullet upper/lower, proof 18" carbon barrel, JP LMOS bolt carrier with JP enhanced bolt, superlative arms adjustable gas block, JP captured spring 85% currently. I built the rifle, adjusted the gas block, all was great for about 1000 rounds. Recently, it has jammed in a couple matches. From what I could tell trying to clear the jams quickly and get back to the stage, the spent round ejected and the next round was stripped about halfway out of the mag and the bolt stopped. I rack the charging handle, it goes into battery and good to go. Oil it really well and makes it through the rest of match. So in trying to figure this out i went back to basics. Bought 3 new mags to eliminate that variable, seemed to be better. Occasionally it wasnt feeding the next round, figured I would check the gas system so sure enough it wasn't locking the bolt on empty mag but about 50% of the time, adjusted a bit and I though it was good to go (concluded that the not feeding mustve been ejecting spent cartridge but not opening the bolt enough to grab the next one). So today I go to double check that it was still good, it wasnt. It wouldn't lock on empty mag, I went to fully open on the gas block and still wouldn't. Had a few hundred rounds since last cleaning so I wiped it down, same issue. I oiled it fairly wet, it would cycle lock back like a dream for about 5-10 rounds then back to not locking on empty mag. I'm thinking my next step is to give the gun a super cleaning (patches in barrel, chamber brush, etc etc etc. I typically use a bore snake, and then rem oil with a toothbrush and then a cloth to do light cleanings after every match and then a heavy cleaning every so often. Maybe it needs a heavy cleaning every time i dont know?) and see what happens from there but I want to get some advice from those of you more experienced with the competition style ARs, especially low mass operating systems as its entirely possible I'm missing something. Got a local championship match coming up Saturday and obviously want to get this figured out and running how it should so all help is greatly appreciated!
  14. Appreciate you guys helping me with my newbie questions! I am now leanin towards passing on blue Ridge this year and waiting till next year...mostly because after watching YouTube of the match it seems much more physical than mental stage planning. Im doing well so far on bay type stages at local matches but, while im fairly young, i do still have a few extra pounds im working off as part of my training. Also looks like a ton of fun but a long trip and I want to be as competitive as possible when I go so I might get in better shape before taking on a match like that
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