Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

NorthernDude

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

NorthernDude's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Hey guys, got a question, I just got done with a polymer 80 940C build, I went a little over kill and think it turned out pretty good. Question, after some function testing I noticed some wear on the trigger shoe, I also noticed the Glock 10 round mags won’t seat and lock in the gun, not with factory or Vickers baseplates, no base plate and they lock, also ETS mags work great. Any thoughts on the trigger shoe, or mags? Thanks
  2. Does this sound about right for adjusting length of pull? Think I found what I was looking for, adjustment write up, it's for more of the McMillan stocks, but should still hold true for us right? "Length of Pull Proper eye relief is crucial to rapid target acquisition. The weapon needs to fit you, not vice-versa. With the proper length of pull you will have better site acquisition, comfort and control of your weapon. This all adds up to better accuracy and more targets hit! Standard length of pull is 13 1/2?. We can build your stock as short as 11? and as long as 15?. To measure your length of pull you should measure from the pad of your index finger to the inside of your bicep. It is important to make sure your index finger is in the position as if you were shooting the gun. In this photo you will see that the L.O.P measurement is 13 5/8?. That means a 13 1/2? L.O.P on the gunstock will work just fine! Length of Pull To check the length of pull on your rifle you should make sure your rifle is unloaded and safe to handle. Grip the rifle with your finger on the trigger. Lay the butt stock in the inside of your forearm, with the butt pad in front of your bicep. the recoil pad should just touch your bicep. If you hunt in cold weather you should subtract for clothing. Winter shooting would be a ball park of about an eighth of an inch." " http://accurateinnovations.com/options/length-of-pull/ So.. Basically adjust your butt pad so the butt pad touched your bicep and your trigger finger pad is right on the trigger.
  3. Hey guys, Just finished my first AR build, well 99.5% Everything went pretty smooth minus I couldn't get the Elftman service trigger and the bolt to play nice, wouldn't rack more than 1.2" back. Art at Elftman ended up telling me to shave a little off the face of the hammer, little dremel file and polish and everything seemed to work just fine, still haven't put any live rounds down range just yet So couple questions, 1 I'm trying to do this thing right, is there a hard and fast method to adjust the butt plate, comb and optics for my geometry? 2 does the spacing on the rings to the jpoint on the rail look too tight? 3 I had the lower type III hard anodized, turned out a little more gloss than the rest, matches the heat sink and the scope so I'm fine with it looks wise, but is that unusual for a type III job? 4 does the primer strike look good enough? 5 Should I send the trigger back to elftman for recoating, or is the polished face on the hammer fine? And last but not least, I have a little rattle between the upper and lower, about the same as I've seen on some new M&P 15s at the local gun shop, I'd like to take that rattle out, I was thinking about some very small Teflon shims by the sides of the front pin and maybe a wedge in the rear, any suggestions? Sorry for all the questions, still kinda new at all of this! Thanks
  4. Hey guys, So as I wait for my JP upper to come in the mail, I've been perusing the Internet, always looking for more ways to use my rifle, have fun, and also save money, I found this, basically it's a laser that replaces your normal BCG, uses the trigger bar to "fire" a green laser blip. Now add add to that A few open source companies have taken this tech and made indoor ranges such as this http://shootoffapp.com/#documentation-advanced Here's a couple videos and here's the same software being used for good old duck hunt Soooo, my thought was to use the open source virtual rangesoftware above, plus also the old arcade software collaborations and maybe use it to have fun and practice with some of the older shooter arcade games.... like House of the Dead and Area 51 https://m.emuparadise.me/M.A.M.E._-_Multiple_Arcade_Machine_Emulator_ROMs/Area_51_(Time_Warner_license,_Oct_17,_1996)/11142 https://m.emuparadise.me/M.A.M.E._-_Multiple_Arcade_Machine_Emulator_ROMs/House_of_the_Dead_2/97514 Does this seem like something which would actually help much for use with a AR? I bet it would work well with my jpoint sight, I know the virtual distant targets probably wouldn't focus well with the Swarovski 3.5-18, but seem like it might be good practice minus the lack of recoil, presuming the triggering pin for the laser gets along with my elftman trigger What say ye??
  5. Sweet, I just added two 1/16th by 1" nylon washers behind the spacer that came with the SCS, just felt better than having some cheap metal quarters back there thanks for the info guys!
  6. So all I need is a 1/8" spacer in the back of the tube to push the buffer forward?
  7. I travel bit with my work and for fun, so it's not uncommon for me to find myself in a less than constitutional state from time to time, also I just plane old like them, between cleaning and also swapping over to 22LR, seems like a cool piece, especially with the pin pal that prevents wear on the forward pivot. I took another look, seems like the plate for the pins is 1/8", so I'm 1/8" aft of where I sould be, could I just cut 1/8 of the threaded end off of another tube and thread it up to the existing buffer tube, and add a 1/8" shim behind the JP buffer? Or does someone make a longer threaded A2 tube? Want to build this rifle right, just trying to figure the best way to resolve this issue
  8. Hey guys, I'm new to the board and wanted to seek the advice of the AR15 gurus, I'm building my first AR, wanted to get some advice, always wanted to build a kick butt AR tack driver, so here it goes. Building a all purpose rifle, might get into a little 3 gun, lots of target shooting/plinking, seasonal hunting, etc. so far I have my upper being built and about a month out, and just finished my lower receiver machine work. Lower 7075 billet, mil spec, getting engraved and hard anodized Strike lower parts kitLUTH-AR MBA stock BAD 45 degree ambi safety Elftman service curve trigger Ergo original grip Battle arms enhanced bolt catch Strike industries mag catch V7 Ti buffer tube retainer pin Cross armory quick pins and pin pal Upper (already ordered, sorry for the caps, copy paste off my invoice email) CTR-02 BILLET UPPER ASSEMBLY, MATTE BLACK FINISH SUPERMATC BARREL, .223 CHAMBER, 18" MEDIUM CONTOUR, 1:8 TWIST, RIFLE-LENGTH GAS SYSTEM, BLACK TEFLON 3-PORT COMPENSATOR, 1/2"-28 TPI, .875 OD, .281 EXIT, BLACK MK III, FREE-FLOATING MODULAR HAND GUARD, XL RIFLELENGTH (15.50" OAL), ROCK BLASTED MATTE BLACK HARD COAT ANODIZED ADJUSTABLE GAS BLOCK, .936 BORE, BLACK ALUMINUM .223 STANDARD FIRING PIN LONG THERMAL DISSIPATOR, BLACK, .650 BBL 8.375" LOW MASS BOLT CARRIER FOR SMALL FRAME (.223), POLISHED 416 STAINLESS FINISH ENHANCED BOLT ASSEMBLY .223, CLEAR FINISH 223 UPPER PACK CTR-02 UPPER ACCESSORY PACK GEN 2 SILENT CAPTURED SPRING SYSTEM FOR AR-15 TYPE RIFLE INCLUDING SPACER FOR USE IN RIFLE LENGTH EXTENSION TUBE OpticsMICROELECTRONIC REFLEX SIGHT, CIRCLE DOT, 65 MOA RING WITH 1 MOA DOT RAIL OFFSET ADAPTER, 45 DEGREE ON BORE AXIS, 1.25" LONG RAIL ADAPTER FOR JPOINT SIGHT, COMPATIBLE WITH M-1913 PICATINNY OR MOST WEAVER TYPE RAILS WINGED GUARD ADAPTER FOR ANY JPOINT MOUNT Looking to get Swarovski Z3 Rifle Scope 4-12x 50mm Ballistic Turret JP rings Thinking the 12x should be is good enough especially since it's nice glass Also got a 22LR conversion so I can use it at my place from time to time, I'm in the country but cracking off 223 wouldn't be as friendly on the ears for my target traps as 22LR. So far it's going together pretty smooth MINUS the AR stoner A2 tube, seems like with the Cross Armory quick pins the tube is about 2.5 threads short of covering the buffer retainer plunger hole, since the Luth-AR MBA1 requires the A2 tube, anyway to get the MBA1 stock and my quick pins to play nice? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...