ecn515

As a 7 year owner/user of a 1301 my advise to new operators of the platform, ignore the piston/cylinder as if they aren't even there. Don't touch them, don't clean them, and certainly NEVER oil them. Had issues when I used to clean the pistol with clogging the ports, took time to work itself open again but just ignoring the thing, works great. My 1301's and everyone else I personally know with one who follows that logic, work great.

Cheaper option, good old ranger plates. Squishy rubber that is angle corrected does the trick. Magpul mag coupler works great for a larger footprint. Or cheaper yet a can of chew taped between two magazines.

I use a standard UBL drop (mid) with QLS on it and add the leg strap. Just loosen the QLS on the UBL and run your strap through it. Works great, no complaints.

Yes, I love 1oz 1160-1180 FPS birdshot in my regular 1301 Comp. My Comp Pro was much more picky, I swapped the recoil damper out of the stock and it now also runs case after case of 1oz low FPS shells.

I think you misunderstood my post. I was simply giving an idea of how long someone could reasonably expect the ULMOS Carriers to last based on my experience with them. I bought the carriers fully knowing they wouldn't last forever and intend to replace them, as stated, when they wear out. I completely agree with what you said.

I wouldn't recommend anything other than the JP ULMOS or VMOS if you want a steel carrier. Like most things the cheaper options are cheaper for a reason. I have a lot of friends who have tried other companies ultra low mass carriers and they all had tons of issues. I shot 3 seasons with one JP ULMOS, it was run wet and maintained fairly well. It definitely has some wear and has started to have some issues at this point. I believe that the issue is that the inner bore of the BCG has actually started to wear now and I'm not getting good gas seal. It likely will need to be replaced soon, but the first 2.5 years were smooth sailing. My newer ULMOS has been running in my girlfriends rifle for two seasons now, no issues. I have no idea of round count on any of my carriers, but we shoot a lot usually at least a match every week if not more plus practice. The large frame (AR-10) VMOS hasn't seen too much use yet, it's very gas sensitive. Unless you are running a two screw or JP gas block you're going to have issues with it traveling too fast.

It doesn't really work like that. The buffer resists the rearward movement of the carrier and assists in the forward movement of the carrier for feeding. Jist getting a low mass buffer and having a standard weight carrier will not give you the effect you are looking for. It in fact could create the opposite effect and introduce reliability issues. Unfortunately you just need to spend the money if you are really after performance. Look at JP's Silent Capture System, LMOS/VMOS carriers and pick what you think will work best for your application. Save up and buy the good stuff once.

I'm on my third AR10 for competing in heavy metal divisions now. I have traditionally used the M4-72 on all my competition rifles both small and large frame. However my current build I am using a SJC Titan because I wanted some top facing ports to help control the muzzle a little bit more. However either is great. Use JP LMOS carriers. I also currently have the VMOS as it can be configured even lighter than the LMOS but it has been a bit finicky.

I could be wrong, I'm not perfect. But if you read the initial post, he states his gun is cycling. Ejecting the spent case, chambering the next round, but that his hammer is not cocked. Easy enough to determine as you can see the hammer in the charging handles notch in the receiver. He didn't say that it goes click, as in hammer falls when he pulls the trigger and then doesn't fire, if that were the case I would suspect bolt bounce. He did say the gun isn't cycling, if that was the case I would suspect mechanical issues or ammo problems. I have spent a great deal of time testing M2's and various parts and springs, as I'm sure most of you have. While I have never outrun my gun in a match in real conditions, I regularly outrun my gun just dumping ammo testing things at the range or when trying to blaze a plate rack in practice. I'm glad that 1200's and 1300's work great for some of you but the way my gun is currently configured it will not work with anything above 3 dram, but thats not a factory configuration.

You won't hear a click if you out run the gun. You will just feel a dead trigger. When out running the gun you release the hammer (by pulling the trigger) before the gun is back in battery. The gun doesn't allow itself to ignite a round out of battery for safety reasons. This is also referred to as 'hammer follow.' If the gun is cycling enough to eject a spent casing and feed a new round into the chamber, it's cycling far enough to cock the hammer. If you think about it, the hammer sits directly behind the bolt carrier, it has to to strike the firing pin. It is cocked when the action cycles way before a spent case is ejected or a new one is fed into the chamber. Inertia guns are all about timing...

Were you shooting fast when conducting these 'drills?' To me, it sounds like you are out running the gun and pulling the trigger before the bolt is closed all the way. That's relatively common on Benelli's, I can easily out run my gun. Especially with lower powered ammo, slower ammo, slower bolt velocity.

I have run my m2 in open for a little while and have seen a few others doing it as well. I have had pretty good success with it, despite the fact that I only have a 12rd tube on it. Having a gun that runs reliably in open already puts you ahead of a lot of the competition. I have used a Vortex Crossfire Dot on my gun, I have a Roth Performance Receiver so it is a direct mount. It really doesn't help much when shooting birdshot, the big advantage is when shooting slugs. Despite all that if I were to shoot open at a major match with that set up I would get destroyed by good open shooters who have DA guns or other high performance reliable open guns on stages with high shotgun round count like jungle runs. On normal stages, or at smaller matches it really isn't a disadvantage.

I sent my comp pro to Briley, they weren't aggressive enough or attentive to detail. I had to touch it up and go more to really get it to load like I wanted. No issues with reliability in any of my 3 1301's that have been opened up.

Out of the box you'll notice the 1301 is much more set up for a tactical or competition use with oversized controls all around vs the more old school hunting ascetic of the benelli's. The beretta also shoots much softer than the benelli as it's gas operated. I've also found the 1301 is very uncaring about what ammo you feed it (with the exclusion on Winchester Super X) it will run almost any 12g loading, the Benelli and it's inertia system can be much more ammo sensitive and finicky.

https://www.truglo.com/pro-series-slug-gun/ TruGlo makes a few different versions that vary in price.