uewpew

Dillon user here, so i can't help with a true solution to the problem, but an easy quality control check device: http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1572 Won one at a raffle last year and thought "great...what a piece of junk..." now i can't imagine not having it.

possibly...I have not tested 13# w/ CCI. Test it out. If you can't test it, then run factory main spring until you start reloading...then you can tailor your primer/spring combo to what yields best ignition and trigger feel for you.

Since not everyone is familiar with the multiple functions of the mighty caliper: https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/Instructions/UsingCalipers.pdf

How deep have you been seating them?

You have to be extremely aware of every action & result when experimenting: what happens if i squeeze a little harder with my weak hand? What happens if the butt of the grip is slightly skewed to the right in my strong hand? What happens if i tense up my arms? etc... Have you taken video of your self and reviewed it? And have the correct pass/fail criteria for success. Are you shooting as fast as you can and looking at group size? Or shooting controlled and tracking the sight up and down? This test and analyze process is not easy. Do you have access to professional training? If you're serious about fixing it, having someone with the desired skill observe and critique you can save lots of time.

Have you checked that you're firing pin is not worn? Earlier this year i noticed my failure rate with Win primers was going up, replaced my firing pin and the failure rate went back down to nearly 0. Bottom pin had about 20k through it. Replaced it with a new pin (Top) There was only .004 difference in OAL...

I run the same set-up, but reload my own ammo. CCI primers would not ignite about 20% of the time. I use Winchester primers with no issue... only a handful of failures in 50k+ rounds

This. ^ Doesn't really matter what drills you shoot, pay attention and learn something to make the session productive.

That statement is a stretch IMO... the right machine, tooling, process, operator, & PM schedule can hold insanely tight tolerances... but is probably cost prohibitive for gun building.

Slow down if the goal is learning/perfecting technique. Speed up if the goal is getting faster...and speed up past your comfort zone.

my two cents... If you want to be competitive in USPSA limited, go major, period If you just want to have fun in USPSA and have a gun that will work for other games like 3 gun and Steel Challenge, go minor and save some $.

Never ran it. looks like blake drill with more pew pew

If you're want your course construction to be 100% compliant, then ask NROI...not the forum. I gave you my opinion, which is painted/wooden fault lines are the standard for USPSA. As for the astro and retractable...go for it. You could host the next 5 years of nationals...but seriously...if it's level 1 just do what your club can afford and your competitors/customers will accept.

Don't you point a shotgun instead of aim it... either way this was good enough for Tom Knapp to put his name on it: Champion EasyHit Shotgun Sight

Are you saying to become a better shoot reps>gear...? heresy!

+2 finally upgraded from a 550b to a super 1050 with MBF...worth every penny. only regret is having to save up for an autodrive...

Sounds like your mind is made up....so why ask?

I can't stop... let's look at the cost and return on investment for "normal" fault lines: Cost estimates are on the high side for my area... 400' of 2x2 furrings: $100 20 cans of spray paint: $100 200 6" spikes: $100 Your time to drill holes in fault line and paint: ? Total out of pocket cost: $300 Assuming your club charges $10 per competitor, it will take 30 competitors to pay for the equipment.

Fair point on the should/shall. i guess it is level 1...who cares, do what you want. Maybe email Troy and see what he says

rule 2.2.1.1 I'm not rules expert, but could not find any level 1 exceptions to this rule. 2x2 furring strips and some Barn Red paint spray paint. Cheap, effective, and very standard for USPSA clubs.

no experience with either. just buy the cheapest stuff that works in your gun.

For Scope leveling, I personally like the plumb line & live fire method: https://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/reticle-perpendicularity.34/ This NSSF video was helpful for me when i first started mounting optics:

I also run 11lb recoil (with plastic buffer) and 11.5 main. 124gr bullets @ 132pf. Approximately 30k rounds through this setup and slide stop is in good shape.

Beautiful...

If you're a DIY'r...