SouperMan

It will come with 10 round magazines for legal sale, and it will accept all magazines made for the P-01 regardless of capacity.

No videos go in great detail, because you are usually just taking a thousandths of a inch out of a particular area. There are a few diagrams out there here on the forum that tells you where to file. https://cajungunworks.com/disconnector-timing/

Are you talking about fitting the sear to the hammer? Or are you talking about reassembling the sear assembly? Fitting the Cajun Adjustable Sear and Short Reset System is usually very plug and play, and with the Cajun Adjustable Sear you are actually fitting the safety. Normally you would have to file on the lobe/arm that touches the safety, but a set screw accomplishes this with the Cajun Adjustable Sear. When properly adjusted, the safety will get in the way of the sear and prevent the hammer from dropping in Single Action. On the CZ75 series, there are some tolerances with the Cajun Gun Works Sear that permit the safety to be engaged when the hammer is down (Double Action), but the safety is not meant to be used in this condition. This isn’t a defect either as the safety operation is paramount when it is in Single Action.

Most modern guns are pretty tolerant to case failures. Tanfoglio and CZ (the ones from actual Czech Republic) are members of C.I.P., a safety regulatory body that tests guns to be proofed at 30% more power than what a normal cartridge would normally have. This isn’t protection from a double charge, but it attests to the quality of the chamber. That being said, I’ve fire-cracked a decent amount of 9mm cases with no ill effect. The worst failure I have ever seen from another Tanfoglio shooter at a local match is that a case split perfectly in half width wise and left a brass ring in the chamber (zero’d a stage but was able to clear it afterwards.) This type of weird brass has thicker brass ledge in the back half of the case from the primer forward, but then about halfway it gets really normal thin towards the mouth of the case. I’ve learned to cull this type of brass from reloading, as I suspect after repeated sizing they get stressed from the ledge and the thin brass, and eventually fail. More information about this brass here:

Check to see if your trigger bar support spring is giving enough tension, and that it’s not caught in between the frame of the gun or the trigger bar. The retaining screw (that also holds the mag release) which affects the tension of the trigger bar support spring might also be canting the spring right/left that it causes it to bind.

Crud I apologize, I didn’t read properly and you were looking for a Tactical Sport 2 Trigger Return Spring, not a Shadow 2/SP-01 spring.

I’ve used the stock CZ 75 SP-01 spring, and I’ve used the heavier Trigger Return Spring from CZ Custom. https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/cz-springs-all/cz-75-trigger-return-spring-heavy.html

Have you tried Patriot Defense? I see that they have it in stock, I believe the SKU is the correct one for the large frame. Drop them an email or call them: https://patriotdefense.com/tanfoglio-magazine-22lr-10-rounds-109914/

The trigger bar spring is held down with a screw that is staked into place. I usually tell people to not mess with it, but it’s not always a good litmus test but I would check the staking of the screw first to rule out the trigger bar spring. Of note, that screw is also needed to change the magazine release orientation as well. If the screw is unstaked, what you can do is back the screw off, which will increase the spring tension to raise the trigger bar. You have to play with it to find the sweetspot; tightened down too much and it won’t reset properly, but loosened too much and the trigger will feel grittier/hard. I would also take a look at the Trigger Return Spring; sometimes it being too light combined with the weakened screw state of the Trigger Bar Spring can make things feel super gritty and not reset as well.

Wanted to clarify that on a CZ, the Firing Pin Block gets pushed up by the Firing Pin Block Lifter and out of the way when you pull the trigger. The Tanfoglio is opposite of this. The Firing Pin Block is dropped out of the way of the sear leg when you pull the trigger. @MemphisMechanic does a great job explaining this in their post about fitting a Extending Firing Pin Block:

When you pull the trigger, the firing pin block lifter in the sear assembly pushes up on the firing pin block on the slide, allowing the firing pin to travel in the firing pin channel. At all times when the gun is at rest with the trigger not actuated, the firing pin block is engaged and actively blocking.

If you do do it, make sure you clean/dry out the firing pin channel and under the sights. Ultrasonic cleaning strips lots of oils and can lead to rusting. I don’t think I have ever done such a super detail clean and I think it might be unnecessary. Maybe after 2-3 matches, I’d do a boresnake and some light cleaning to make sure the trigger bar and sear are working smoothly. And maybe once a year or before a major match I’d tear down everything on my SP-01 to give it a once over deep clean with fresh new springs.

Assuming no rounds in the chamber? I’d take a hard plastic mallet and bump the slide to the disassembly position, and then tap the slide lock out. And I would carefully tap the slide out by force at this point. Could be a binding recoil spring that you need to overcome to get it fixed.

Are you sure you that you don’t have a barrel/chamber issue? Check for cracks or bulging. Any chance we can see a photo of the split case and the barrel with a close up of the chamber? Highly odd that you are seeing so many split cases. It almost seems as if the barrel chamber is out of spec allowing the brass to expand so much that it’s splitting. Did you happen to catch the headstamp of the brass that failed?

Silly question, but is the holster right handed or left handed? Trying to think where it’s getting hung up, like the mag release or the slidestop. Usually it’s a matter of breaking in the holster but drawing and holstering to wear in the kydex. Any chance the holsters were deformed in high heat? It seems that you are OWB carrying your Shadow 2. I don’t have a lot of retention on my competition holster, and my gun would probably fall out of the holster if I did the upside down test. When walking stages, for extra security I’ve seen folks use a tarp tie down to keep their guns in the holster but I don’t think that’s an option for you.