Mully383

Those seem to be discontinued. Here is another one. http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1359

I realized I just used my last one last match and I needed some more striker springs. Called Smith and Wesson and they shipping me some on wensday when they get back from the holiday weekend. I would highly recommend anyone to steer clear of the wolf factory replacement. It is noticably lighter and wouldn't set of cci primers.

The striker is sometimes hard to find. I found some through a local gun shop that had a m&p official armor they get a cool parts kit that has a couple in it. It's the only place I've found them in stock.

the parts you need are the fss sear (only the sear), competition spring kit, and the "r.a.m" from apex. use the comp springs but note some times the sear spring wont work. i have one it works in and the other i had to keep the stock spring. once those are installed you'll see that you now have a great pull but about 1/2 in of over travel. if you have a performance center its an easy fix as it has an adjustable over travel stop. on my standard core i welded an extension on the trigger bar so it hits the sear block and filled it down till the trigger could then break. this parts setup gives the best trigger in my opinion. after that sometimes you need to mess with the trigger loop to get it to work right. you can lightend it more by cutting down the safety plunger spring or replacing it with apex's. If you dont have a performance center you might get there hole safety plunger kit my original post on this is titled fss in production. give it a search.

Is removing the shroud prod/co legal. It might be co legal but I'm sure it's not prod.

I have the Springer. I have dropped the mag on time becuase I have a goofy hold on the gun. But loaded table starts are next to impossible with it. I have been contomplating on taking it out as I didn't really have a problem before the button.

Overall the 2.0 might be better out of the box but I wouldn't say it's by much. I can't get over the 2.0 doesn't auto forward. But after you add on all the aftermarket jazz your not going to see much of a difference.

I've got 1500 rounds through mine now and this is what I've seen. The accuracy is great. Off hand I'm getting 5 in groups at 30 yrds. But I don't know what slow fire is. A couple things I first noticed was the gun kicked very noticably more then my other m&p. Switched out recoil springs and such to try and narrow it down but didn't figure it out till I ran them both over the chrony. The apex is sending them down range 60 fps faster then the old barrel. That's shooting 147 grn Leatherheads. The other issue is it blackens my optic in a 20 rnd stage. I'm gonna change my load around a bit and see if that makes a difference. I read somewhere on here of someone having the same issue with the dirty optic. Anyone else experienced this and get it to stop. I'm using nv320 powder currently but most likely switching back to bullseye

It requires the adapter mount thats mentioned in the link above or a ridulous amount of effort to get it to fit. The hardest part being the screws. But if you use the Delta point plate and remove the plastic on the back of the plate and take about .050 out of the front of the slide cut it will fit. The screws were made out of the long screws that came in the optics mount kit with the square head that were lathed down to match the new Delta point screws. I didn't want to give up any height or added weight. But not sure it was worth the headache ethier. I don't know about getting the RTS 2 on there. Haven't traveled that road yet. But I don't think there is a adapter and it will likely be more difficult then the DP pro route I did

I use Hornady spray clean lube. Everyone thought I was crazy till I ran a JM pro for 300 rounds at 0 degrees with low recoil target loads. I was one of few that didn't have problems that day. It's a dry lube so it's great in the summer too when it's all dusty out.

That's what I run. Alot of people don't like them. I've never broken one. For the money I like them. They come with a bullet out and bullet forward (or bullet backwards if you want to start a conversation with every dude at the range) pouches. Hard to go wrong with the ghost pouches

I believe you always choose based on your shooting hand. If your a right handed shooter you buy right hand mags... They would mount on your left.

Here comes the war.... I like bullets out. But if you can try both styles see what one works for you.

I had the same problem. Probably worse if you are wet tumbling.espesically if you dry in the oven in the winter. Turns them all sorts of crazy colors. U need a heavy duty degreaser to get it off. I use super clean. It's a degreaser in a purple jug you find at an auto parts store. Also when the tumbler is done get the brass out. If it sits overnight it separates and gets back on the brass. I have since stopped using lanolin. I use the Hornady case lube now.