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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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  1. P320 X5 Thread

    Based on the video, it appears the P320 fires because when dropped on the back of the slide/frame, the trigger is actually being pulled by inertia. While I don't know how the GG cam safety operates, it does not appear that anything short of reducing the mass of the trigger, stiffer trigger pull or adding a trigger safety (glock, M&P etc) will prevent the issue. They said in the video that the flat trigger found on the X5 was lighter than the curved and when installed into the P320's that were firing when dropped, dramatically reduced the issue.
  2. I know there was a shooter that was DNFed from a major match for grip mods to his P320 in SSP a couple years ago. This brought on a huge debate that I can't seen to find an "official" stance from IDPA on this with the Sig P320. Has there been an official ruling from IDPA if this is in fact illegal or was it ever determined that the grip module on the P320 is a readily changeable component and legal to stipple or silicon carbide for use in SSP? I know its never been in question for ESP. Just want to know so that I can buy a spare module for use in SSP, thanks!
  3. Thank you. I used a fairly firm short brush that I got at a craft store. I chose this type of brush because I wanted a thin coat of JB Weld and it worked perfectly. If the brush is too soft, it would be very difficult to apply a thin layer. This way, there isn't much excess and the grit lays much more even and smooth (not wavy or clumpy). I used a sharpie to outline the areas I wanted to expand the grit to as this helps visualize what it will look like. I then used a dremmel with a cutting bit to scribe the sharpie lines. I went the same depth of the molded stipple pockets and used a file to clean up the lines. Then I shaved the molded stippling off and then blended the expanded areas with the dremmel tool. A sanding drum worked well for this. The most time consuming part was shaving around the Sig logo because I wanted to keep it intact. I used various dremmel bits, various files etc. I plan to paint the logo so that the recessed part is red and the raised part is black. BTW, the logo is 11mm. After you're happy with all that, I washed the grip to get rid of any plastic dust as well as any oil your hands may leave. Once dry, you can mask the areas you don't want to grit and you're ready to apply the JB Weld. Take your time, it's very easy. The sanding/shaving is just time consuming if you want it to look nice.
  4. Just finished my grit job. I used the 46/70 grit and JB Weld. Took a couple hours carefully removing the molded stippling and shaving down the transition areas so that it's flush with the rest of the grip. I'm really happy with the way it turned out and the diameter is no larger than stock (grit is flush with the grip). It's not fully cured so I haven't tried it out yet but I think it will be great.
  5. Thank you, that's probably the route I'll go with as well.
  6. Thank you Alma. Sounds like 46-70 is what I would likely prefer.
  7. Sounds good! Please share your results too. Which adhesive did you decide on?
  8. Thank you! I'll probably get the 36 and 46-70.
  9. Ok, I was curious what the Harbor Freight grit size was. if it's around 30 grit, then 60 should be good. I'll probably get the 80 as well only because $4 bucks is cheap insurance in case the 60 is coarser than I'm expecting. Thanks again for the info.
  10. Yeah, $4 is very reasonable and we don't need much. Which size grit are you going with? I'm thinking I'll order 60 and 80 and make a test patch on a piece of plastic so I can decide which to use. Maybe even mix the 60 and 80 if I'm on the fence.
  11. Cool, Thanks! BTW, I found this place that has various grit sizes for a reasonable price: http://www.hisglassworks.com/shop/loose-grit/silicon-carbide/1-pound.html
  12. I'm getting ready to do this as well. What kind of adhesive did you use?
  13. P320 X5 Thread

    I suspect it's a liability reason. My guess is that while the X5 is primarily a competition pistol, a significant amount of buyers will still use hot factory loads in it which would potentially cause damage if sprung too soft. Also, because the shooters that do want to reduce the spring rate for their soft hand loads, the spring rate would be personal preference anyway.
  14. P320 X5 Thread

    I don't have the GG PELT trigger but my understanding is that with the supplied trigger return spring, what you're describing is normal with that kit. There are two primary reasons for this. The GG PELT trigger changes the geometry by shortening the moment arm that moves the trigger bar. The shorter arm increases leverage in order to reduce trigger pull weight. The provided trigger return spring is also softer than the factory one, which also brings down the pull weight. Like anything mechanical, there is a compromise in doing this and that is less feedback (tactile feel and sound). Some people are ok with this and others are not. No right or wrong, just preference. If I could make a suggestion. Use the stock trigger return spring with the PELT trigger for more tactile feel but this will increase the trigger pull weight a bit. To counter this, remove one of the sear springs. This should bring the pull weight back down and still provide the tactile reset you're looking for.
  15. P320 X5 Thread

    Mine actually shot high (and a couple inches left) out of the box at 20 yards. I'm shooting 147gn 132pf hand loads. I tested it on a bench rest to insure an accurate POI. Its a very accurate gun for sure though. Also, I did more shooting with mine yesterday to get more rounds though it after doing the trigger work. Such a huge difference with the overtravel and reset reduction. Stock, I felt like I had to slap the trigger to achieve decent splits but now its so easy and more importantly, more accurate (not slapping the trigger). I think it's about as close to a 1911 trigger as I can get it.