tedbeau

Thanks for the replies. Since I am pretty happy with the load I am using now I guess I will just stick to the 180 grains. For the record, I use a 180 grain Xtreme RNFP, over 4.2 grains of Winchester 231,HP38 with Winchester primers loaded to 1.125 OVL. Out of my Glock 27 it makes 785 FPS (141 PF) which is way more than I need for IDPA. I can drop down to 4.0 Grains and get 750 FPS (135 PF).

I noticed that Xtreme sells a 200 grain 40 caliber bullet and I was thinking of trying some. I am looking for a lighter recoiling load. Since I shoot Marksman in IDPA using a Glock 27 I only need to make a 125 PF and I am not concerned about the slide speed. Looking on few other forums I saw quite a few post warning that the 200 grain bullets were not safe in 40 caliber guns due to pressure spikes, I guess. Looking on the forums here I do see quite a few people that say they are using 200 grain bullets, but a lot of the load data they mention are considerably longer than the 40 caliber OVA length of 1.135, some going to 1.18 and even 1.2. I know from experience I can't load a 1.18 long load in my 40 caliber glock mags. So my question is, is it safe to shoot 200 grain in a 40 caliber, not 10mm?

I'm pretty sure I know what the answer will be but thought I would ask the experts here anyways. I'm just starting to work up loads for a charter arms bulldog in 44 special. I bought 500 starline cases and 500 xtreme 200 grain rnfp jacketed. Plan on using Unique powder. I have an idea of where I want to be speed wise so I loaded a few batches of 5 rounds at different charges. I havn't gotten a chance to shoot them through my chrono yet. My question has to do with overall length. Manuals show the overall length for a 44 Special at 1.61. When I set the bullet seating depth to crimp in the cannelure my overall length ends up at about 1.4X (going from memory here on the exact length. That seems short so I was wondering if that's normal with a 200 grain bullet? I do not plan on loading extremely high pressure so the case volume might not be an issue. How short is too short?

This is what my mentor told, me. When you have a shooter DQ himself that's how you explain it to him. "You have broken a major safety violation and have DQ'ed yourself from the match." It lets them know they were responsible for the error and why the DQ is necessary (safety).

Having S.O.'d and been a match director at a major match for 5 years, I have seen this happen quite a lot. One time a really good and serious shooter did not have any mags in his mag pouch. Shot to slide lock and went to reload, no mags. This is IDPA so the SO' wouldn't normally notice either. I've seen shooters have partially full mags also. Normally my version of this is at our Wednesday night practice sessions. I hate the paddle type holster adapter I have for my competition holster. On Wednesday nights I take my EDC gun out of my concealment holster, put the competition holster and mag carrier on my belt, holster the gun and drive to the practice session. Invariably when it's my turn to shoot I get to the line and realize I didn't put any mags in the carrier. I usually catch it but have to run back to my bag to get the mags.

When I design stages I usually think of one item, and design the stage around that. It could be a prop, or a target array, a part of a scenario. Example, I did a stage where you were stuck in traffic and a caught between two carloads of rival gang bangers in the cars next to you. I had four targets in two arrays and each target had portions blacked out as hard cover, (the car doors or roof columns. This made for reduced zero scoring zones on most of the targets but each zone was reduced differently, either partially blocked on side, or top or bottom. Another time we had a tree fall down in one of our bays so I wanted to hang some targets from the tree, upside down, and that's how Barrels of Monkeys stage was created. I had "baboons" invade your African safari camp and at the end of the stage you had to shoot the last two thru a barrel with the bottom cut out for a nice "Thump" sound. Last night I used a new prop, that gave me the stage idea. We have a nighttime shoot coming up in two months and I wanted to test an idea. We shoot the night match with flashlights. My daughters work gave away some swag gifts that are little plastic boxes that look like a wall light switch. The box has a plastic cover and leds in it. When you turn on the switch the lights come on. I mounted these on a barricade at almost eye level near the edge of the barricade we were shooting around. We turned off most the range lights. Shooting the stage you had to turn on the light as you arrived at the shooting position before shooting around the barricade. This meant that you were shooting at low light targets with a bright LED light between you and the target so it was messing with your night vision. I hate the simple scenarios like, "shoot the bad guys" although I admit I have been lazy at times if I am in a hurry. One of my favorite scenarios was from last years Michigan State Match. "Your daughter tells you there are monsters in her closet. When you go to check, sure enough, there ARE monsters in the closet!" I laughed when the SO read it.

Since I see that 57K mentioned GFL headstamps, I would like to ask a question about these in particular. I have noticed that when ever I get a case that takes noticeably more force to size the case, it is always a GFL headstamp. I was curious if this was due to over size case, heavy wall or excessive case expansion during firing. These are usually range brass pickup's (40 caliber) so I don't know if they are factory once fired or someone's reloads. I guess I could just take a minute and measure the case wall and OD next time I run across some.

I bought about 3000 once fired brass from a guy on Brass bank facebook page and have been reloading that for about a year and a half. I have also had a few club members give me some range brass over the past couple of years. I now have enough to start reloading it. Since there are not a lot of people around here shooting 40 caliber I figure most of this is once fired from guys that do not reload. After hearing that Winchester brass is a little weaker than others I have decided to sort and use the Winchester brass for loss brass matches. That way I "lose" it before it's been reloaded more than twice. The only other head stamps I sort out are my federal that I bought online if it gets mixed in with other range brass at a local match and Herters (Cabela store brand). The Herters absolutely sucks when it comes to primer seating. I have about 20 cases that I can not get a primer to seat flush in no matter how hard I lean on the press. Now I just toss the Herters into a box I plan on sending into a bullet manufacturer for credit, if they will take them. I have not run into any Federal NT brass that I can recall. One other thing I have noticed is when I get a case that sizes a little harder than others it's always a GFL headstamp. I don't know if their brass is over size, thicker walled or maybe harder brass but I can tell when I pull the lever on the press. I'll usually check the case and it will almost always be GFL.

As I posted in another thread, I won a Charter Arms bulldog in 44 special so I am looking to do some reloading. I have found a few load data specs but most of them tend to be on the higher power end for hunting. Since I just want to plink with it and maybe use it in IDPA local bug matches I am looking to be at a 130 PF. Also since my club doesn't allow plain lead bullets at our indoor range I would like to be using plated or jacketed bullets. Xtreme makes 200 and 240 grain plated. http://www.xtremebullets.com/44-s/48047.htm Since the gun is pretty light and I tend to hold to the theory that heavier equals less perceived recoil I am leaning towards the 240 grains. If I want a 130-135 PF with 240 grain bullets I would only need to make 541 to 562 FPS. My concern is is that to slow and would I be risking sticking a bullet in the barrel? Even using the 200 grain bullets I would be looking at 650 to 675 FPS. This at least seems reasonable Does anyone have an idea of what realistically is the slowest speed you should use for plated bullets. Also anyone that has any actually experience with low end 44 special loads I would love to hear your experience. Thanks

So you used a taper crimp die on them? I don't plan on running full power loads either, just want something I can have some fun with. I may use the gun in the local IDPA bug matches. (I think it fits in the IDPA bug box. I'll have to check that for sure).

I was lucky enough to win a handgun at a gun match this past Sunday! I won a Charter Arms Bulldog in 44 Special. Now I am trying to decide if I want to flip the gun for some cash to buy a semi-auto for competition or keep the bulldog. I shoot IDPA and would like to get either a Glock or XD in 40 caliber or 9MM. I already load 40 caliber for my Glock 27 I shoot in the CCP division but would like to start using a different gun in SSP division. Since the Bulldog is a 5 rounder it wouldn't be as competitive in revolvers since most revolvers in the division are 6 rounders. If I keep the gun I would probably want to start reloading for it. Here's the problem, almost all the bullets I see available are either lead or jacketed/plated hollowpoints. My club does not allow lead/hard cast lead to be shot at the indoor range and the hollow points are pricey for plinking. A few manufacturers list some plated bullets with out the cannelure. I know usually revolvers use a roll crimp in the cannelure to prevent bullet jump, so my questions are: 1. Do I need to buy a bullet with the cannelure or can I use a taper crimp on a straight sided bullet in a 44 special? 2. Where can I find inexpensive ( less than fifteen cents a round) bullets for plinking?

Thanks for the load data reshoot. I need to decide if I want to use the WSF or the Unique I have. I guess I can load a few different loads of each and see which feels better and shoots better. With the spring match season finally getting close I need to get my supply of ammo built up a little. I haven't been reloading much since I became my clubs match director. We are lucky enough to have an indoor range so we have monthly matches all winter long, plus weekly practice sessions that I have also been running and shooting.

sbo76 said he makes 170 PF using 5.4 grains of WSF and 180 grain plated. and yz125mm700 says he uses 4.9 grains to make major. I guess I'm surprised that there is .5 grains difference in the loads yet both make major. I have a jug of WSF that I may have to use since I am out of the W231 I have been using. Since I shoot 40 caliber in IDPA I only need to make 125 PF. Does anyone have load data for a 180 grain jacketed bullet (delta precision) using WFS and making around 750 FPS? By my calculations, it should be around 4.6 grains.

Mine has the diffusers (pact calls them skyscreens I guess). That's how I knew the unit was never used, the plastic diffuser panels are attached to the metal frame with tape and the tape still had the protective paper backing that needs to be peeled off to attach. I had read a tip from someone else about putting a cardboard target in front. Question though, why cut a hole in it, the cardboard shouldn't slow the bullet down, of course I guess it would be harder to see the relationship of the target and the skyscreens and sensor without a hole, so more chance of shooting the unit if shooting blind. one other interesting thing, I took the battery out and noticed that the wiring harness for the battery connector appears to be spliced. It had electrical tape in the middle of it. I unwrapped the tape and each wire was joined with heat shrink tubing. I'm not sure if it's a factor joint, or if someone replaced the battery connection. IF it's a solder joint it should be ok, if' its not it might be causing power supply issues. If I continue to have trouble I can replace the connector, I have one and I can solder it on to make sure its a good connection.

I have a question concerning polish added to walnut media. I have a Cabelas tumbler and it came with a bottle of polish. I understand it's basically car wax. The very first time I tumbled brass I added a cup full of the polish to the walnut media. When I took out the brass after tumbling and started to reload I found several cases that had big gobs of the walnuts and polish packed in them. I would expect that loading these with the junk in them would be a bad thing. How do you get the polish to not glob up when added to the walnuts and how do you check to make sure there isn't any stuck in a case afterwards. The other thing I noticed is even adding the polish and tumbling for two hours the cases are not as shiny as I would like. The cases I am using were purchased online from the brass bank web site and they seem to be tarnished, not just dirty from powder residue. I think I may try the citric acid soak method to clean them. I know someone is going to chime in with buy a SS pin tumbler setup but I don't think I need to go to that extreme.