Yar1180

David this is Ray Wong from ZEV. I'm the director of special projects here and I shoot a 9 major Glock open gun weekly in competition. I'd like to make arrangements with you to send the gun in. I will have your sales rep send you an insured shipping label. I'd like to go through your gun to diagnose the issue. It could be a number of things and I would be guessing unless I could physically inspect and test fire the gun. Please look for an email from us and I'll give you a ring later today to get some notes started. We will get this figured out and make it right. Sorry for your frustration but as you probably know sometimes a open gun needs a little extra tuning to get it running right. On thing in particular I want to check is the head spacing of the conversion barrel.That is my first guess based on your description of the various ammo and primers you have tried.

I probably did not have my dillon super swager set right and put a small wrinkle in the neck of several 223 cases. They load and case guage fine but when chambered in my rifle it stuck. It only happens with ejecting a live round and I have to motar it out by smacking the stock on the ground while pulling the charging handle. All the brass has been trimmed to proper size and confirmed as such. The rifle is a JP and the chamber is in spec. I will reset my swager to eliminate the wrinkle but I want to savage the brass I have done. I have tried to resize it again and it does not seem to remove out enough of the wrinkle. I am using a standard Lee .223 sizing die. Would I be better off using a neck sizing die or other specialized die?

Not nessasarily. If there is no downward tension from the wire nubin of the slide release lever because it is over the locking block instead of under, the slide release lever will sit in the down position. If you rack the slide keeping the muzzle horizontal it would not lock the slide back. When you fire the pistol the lever would bounce up and down but it will not always catch thus it would be intermittent. If somehow having the wire nubbin above the locking block created upward tension it would lock the slide back every time. As designed that will not be the case.

could very well be the slide release lever is installed incorretly. The wire nubbin of the slide release lever must be under the locking block pin to provide tension. Best way to do this is to install the locking block pin first, then insert the slide release lever (thus making sure wire nubbin is under LB Pin), then insert the trigger pin. If the wire nubbin is above the locking block pin and there is no downward tension the slide release lever can bounce up and down with recoil and intermitently lock the slide back.

We submitted our standard trigger kit to John Amidon and USPSA per their request after the 2008 shot show. John called us back and told us the trigger was ruled legal for production. While there are holes on both sides of the trigger pad they are the same factory hole locations. We did not move any pins. What we did was disasemble the trigger pad to work our magic on the trigger bar and then reasemble the trigger pad onto the bar. The only way to get the pins out is to punch it out the other side which creates the hole. If it was a issue we could easily epoxy the little polymer plugs back into place or fill the holes with dyed epoxy and it would be very difficult to tell. We have not done this because first USPSA said it was legal and second without naming names the standard triggers have passed inpection at major matches.

Troy thank you for your input. It would be better I think if 5.7.1 was rewritten to paraphrase what you said 5.7.1 specifically addresses a malfunction, not a discharge. If the malfunction causes a discharge or shot, it's still a DQ. The broken gun rule has been removed from the current rule book and there is no longer an alibi if your gun goes off accidentally or unintentionally. That is not how 5.7.1 is written.

This is strictly hypothetical I understand about the no more broken gun alibi and how it was effective 2008. I just question the way 5.7.1 and 10.4.3 are written and how they seem to contradict. If you specifically say 5.7.1 A competitor who experiences a handgun malfunction while responding to the “Make Ready” command, but prior to issuance of the “Start Signal”, is entitled to retire to repair his handgun without penalty... and the malfunction is something like a hammer following the slide with the shooters finger out of the trigger guard. To me it seems like this leaves too much room for interpretation. This can cause a match being slowed down as people discuss the right call at lenght and somebody being upset with the ruling either way because it is not very clear. If 5.7.1 was specificly stated that a mechanical AD is still a DQ per 10.4.3 or handgun malfunction is defined as any malfunction other than one that caused a AD it would be much better. As the way the rules are written is there a clear "right call?" Do you agree that 5.7.1 and 10.4.3 seem to contradict. Rulebook for reference so you do not have to dig it out of the rangebag. http://www.uspsa.org/rules/2008HandgunRulesindexed.pdf

It can be done. Be aware the steel on the glock slide is very hard. Stay away from the frame rails. If you have access to a mill that would be a lot better than a drill press.

Please send a PM. The mods will move the thread otherwise.

click image to play video 70mb flv Been awhile. I'm going to work on getting these videos up in reverse order, about 1 a day. I got 5 months of footage. This is a prep match for uspsa multi gun nationals at the end of the month shot in Pala CA. It's over 6 minutes long but pretty fast pace so hopefully it'll keep your interest. I'm working with new video editing software that I'm still learning, lots of new capabilities I have not figured out yet.

I looked that that NF at shot show and I really like it. I would get one but I already have a TR-20 mildot that I like. I do like how the NF is smaller, compact, and lighter than my TR20. I shoot open class so I like having more magnification if I need it. It is a big advantage to be able to see your misses at those 350+ yard targets to make wind calls etc. I do have a Cmore for the close range stuff so low power is not an issue. If I did shoot tactical though I would use a TR24

If glock does not replace it, you probably could repair it with some 30 minute epoxy.

For 9mm minor and 40 minor I would use the reduced power striker spring (comes with the all trigger kits) w/ the skeletonized striker(comes with the ultimate kit), our extra power trigger spring (comes with the all trigger kits), reduced power firing pin safety spring (comes with the all trigger kits), and a ismi 13 lbs recoil spring. You'll either need a aftermarket recoil rod no heavier than regular steel or disasemble and reassemble your factory recoil rod. Our hardened bronze recoil rod would not be legal to my understanding. For 45 minor you could do the above with either a 13 or 15 lbs recoil spring depending on light your actual loads were. For hot 45, something that made major I would use a 15 lbs recoil spring. Really it's not a bad idea to get both a 13 lbs and a 15 lbs recoil spring and test with your ammo. The lighter spring will give you more slide speed but the heavier spring may feel softer to some people because it spreads out the recoil impulse at the expense of slide speed. The big thing besides how fast the gun cycles and how it feels is how the sights track during and after recoil. Too heavy a recoil spring and not only is the gun slower but the front sight may dip down below the target after recoil.