RippinSVT

Don't shorten it. A Marvel cut on the disco rail helps reduce the feel of it when cycling the gun. Another trick is to file a filet/bevel on the top inside of the center searspring leaf and polish it. This prevents the hard contact or catching of the edge of the spring on the back bevel of the disco and allows slicker movement there.

I’ve shot Toolguy’s gun, it’s properly loud and efficient.

Modern S&W's, in particular 929's, have suffered from some pour QC in the last 5-10 years. As a result accuracy has often been piss-poor. To put into perspective, I did a 929 for a known pro shooter last year and prior to crown/cone work, it would barely keep the shots on paper, 8-10" groups at 25yds from a bench. After recutting, it would put all 8 into an inch easily. Essentially all that is done is squaring the crown and ensuring concentric bullet release. On the forcing cone end, the rear of the barrel is squared to the cylinder, and then a gentle taper/leade is reamed into the start of the rifling, ensuring concentric and gradual bullet engagement with the rifling. It's unbelievable the difference it can make, and it's only an hour job max.

A crown and forcing cone job should be high on the list. Easy to do, and the accuracy advantages on these "performance" center guns is unbelievable.

Yep, Doug's gun has the comp secured into the shroud, shroud secured to frame, and a Commander slide like mentioned. The barrel reciprocates within the bushing/comp assembly. I've seen it apart but can't remember exactly how the bushing sits in there, whether it's secured directly to the frame or the shroud/comp. I am actually building a similar setup now for both a 1911 and a P210A.

My stock 6" 9mm Trojan shoots outrageously well, around 1.25" at 50yds for 6 shots. Never over 2" at 50yds. That's with a really good known 9mm accuracy load.

External ballistics having an appreciable effect on POI inside 50 yards is a fallacy for everything but the slowest 45acp and 38 Special loads, where it's still only a few inches. 99.9999% of the time appreciable POI changes over distance is as a result of the sight plane being out of parallel to the bore axis, often as a result of a real close zero. This is exacerbated with a tall dot. The further you can zero your pistol, the better your average POA/POI will be over distance, at least out the point where external ballistics really start playing with the equation and appreciable drop occurs, which is around 70-80 yards with a minor 9mm 115/124gr load. A solid 50yd zero will often vary +/- 1" all the way back to 10 yards or so, with low impacts occurring below this distance due to the height of the sight above bore centerline (plus the inherent 1* or 52 minute downward tilt of a 1911 barrel). Actual load to load POI variance at practical distances is more closely related to recoil impulse, twist rate, bullet design, etc. I know there's gonna be people who dispute me based on their experience, and none of what I've said covers every factor/situation, but I have tested perhaps 100k pistol rounds and hundreds of loads, just from a bench, over the years for accuracy, from 10-100yds and what I said above is an opinion based on that data and nothing more.

I made a set for a friend's Ruger 22 that mounts forward of the scope rings on the rail. Let me look, I may have made two sets Kyle

Wow that’s a great idea!

When they are that bad I put 3 jacketed rounds in a mag and into the gun, lock the slide back, and then hit the comp ports with a propane torch for 10-15 seconds until the lead starts to pool, then snap the slide closed and fire 3 quick shots into the ground. Say what you will, but it's quick and WORKS. Then spray your comp with lanolin/alcohol regularly to prevent it next time. Another secret is to use weld spatter cleaner in the comp. It's expensive but won't allow buildup.

I have experience with several of the options named here. The RO is a solid gun, decently accurate, but certainly not brilliant out of the box. The PM9 that I worked on had a great trigger and slide/frame fit. The barrel fit was decent, but had some vertical play on the lugs. The disconnector was ultra stiff with its interaction with the slide some much so that you could stop the slide on it 2/3 back. The Colt Comps were pretty loose guns in all respects. If I had to choose, I would take the PM9 under the pretenses that I went over it and did a few things, like a disco ramp cut at the stripping block/breachface. I'd probably fit a barrel in any factory gun, and the RO would need a sear/hook job for sure. All that said, I've rarely handled any factory 1911 up to and including stuff in the Baer line that didn't need some work IMHO. Exceptions being some of the older STI singlestacks, minus the chintzy finish. I've got a 6" 9mm Trojan and 6" 9mm Targetmaster that have both shoot 1" at 50yds.

Chris I have used the new style. After just a bit of standard feedlip tuning and no other modification, they have been very reliable.

I think it may have an advantage over TG/Bullseye/N320 in 38 Super and Special due to the increased case volume, since it's a bulkier powder. In the tiny 9mm that wasn't my experience. That's pure speculation.

Holster options have been the only thing keeping me from shooting my K38 in Production. It's just so brutally slow and cumbersome to draw with the long barrel.

I didn't have much luck with PP. In minor loads I have always had the best luck with really fast powders like Bullseye, TG, and N320 at around 4gr with a 115.