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Huch

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  1. I'll echo this 100%. I went from a SE to the Steiner P4Xi as well and shoot better at distance now with the 4x because the glass is better and the reticle lines are finer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

    The CGW floating trigger pin is a huge help on the removal front as well. I'd definitely get a couple of those the next time you order anything from them.
  3. CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

    I used to really struggle with it too. Now I put the trigger in the frame (without the spring in), start the trigger pin and push it through the frame just enough to go into the hole in the trigger and hold it in place. Then hold the trigger spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and push it down into place and hold it while pressing the pin through the spring. Once that's done, everything is held in place and you can just wiggle the trigger and/or spring a bit while pushing on the pin until is slides the rest of the way into the frame. Very easy and eliminates the need for a slave pin or 3 hands.
  4. CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

    No, you file the edge on the square shaped portion of the safety bar (that rotates when you move the safety up and down). It's the top rear corner, the one that rotates under the sear when you engage the safety. I'll try to upload a picture if I get a chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

    I had this same problem of 2 CZ's after I upgraded the hammers. Just take a needle file and make 1 or 2 light passes on the corner of the squared off section of the safety bar where it rotates under the sear. That's where it is catching and impeding he function. Don't use much pressure, all you're trying to do is break that hard edge that's catching on the edge of the sear and preventing the safety from rotating under it. It won't effect the function of the safety since you're not removing any material from the top (the part that rests under the sear and keeps it from moving down once the safety is engaged). I'm not exaggerating when I say one or two passes btw. Make one light pass in one direction and see if it works, then repeat. One of my guns only took one pass to get it working, the other took 3. Hope that helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. The one issue with the Strike Eagle is that the reticle lines are thick, especially on the holdover lines. They cover the whole target at 300+ yards. I switched to a Seiner P4Xi and it's amazing. Has the same reticle as the JM Razor and even though it's only a 1-4x I shoot better at long range with it because the glass is better and the reticle lines are fine. Worth a look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Swarovski ruggedness?

    You may be waiting until 2018 for a 1-8 Razor. I was listening to a podcast w/a guy from Vortex and he said there was no plan to update the Razor this year. That looks like the case since they are coming out with a 1-8 Strike Eagle soon and the 1-6 Viper PST gen 2 in the spring. Both the Swarovski and the Razor will be a massive step up from the Strike Eagle. Don't get hung up on magnification, glass quality is way more important. A good 1-6 will outshoot a crappy 1-8 all day long. I used to shoot with a Strike Eagle and got rid of it because the reticle is so thick that the holdover lines completely covered the targets at anything beyond 250. Switched to a Steiner P4Xi and even though it's only a 4x, i shoot much better at distance because the reticle is finer (looks like the Razors reticle with a daylight bright red dot center) and the glass is much better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Swarovski ruggedness?

    It's a fantastic scope, but it's not $1k better than the Razor. Personally I would get the Razor, but you won't be displeased with the Swarovski by any stretch. They stopped making the 1-6x because their 1-8x is coming out. A lot of people still want the 1-6 though, so if you buy it and don't like it, you can probably sell it for close to what you paid for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. All things being equal, more magnification is better for the long range stuff, at least up to 8 or 10x. The problem is that things are never equal and most people think magnification is the most important thing about a scope (when actually the glass quality matters more) so they buy the highest magnification variable scope they can get. 1-4x used to be the hotness, now everyone is getting 1-6's and the pro level guys have 1-8's. When it comes to variable 1-?x scopes, you are generally paying for the low end and the glass quality. I went shooting with a friend of mine and I had a decent mid level scope (Vortex 2.5-10x PST) and he had some cheap 16x scope. We were shooting at 200yds and I had to tell him where he was hitting because I could see his bullet holes and he couldn't, even though he had a more "powerful" scope. Max range in matches is generally range dependent and most just work with whatever they have. Longest I've seen is 620 yds at Hard as Hell in Utah but my local club shoots to 370. Both are doable with a good 1-4 but are easier with a good 1-6. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Check out the Steiner p4xi 1-4x. I have one on my 3Gun rifle and it awesome. Like the Vortex Razor HDII, but only 4x and about $550. Has great glass, same reticle as the Razor and a daylight bright red dot in the center. I switched to one from a Strike Eagle 1-6x and love it. Even though I lost 2x on the top end, I shoot better at long distance with the Steiner because the glass is better and the reticle is much more precise (the reticle lines on the Strike Eagle are too thick so the holdover lines are worthless because they cover the entire target). I have mine in a cheap, lightweight Aero Precision mount and it has held zero since the day I mounted it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thoughts on a new optic?

    I second all of this. I use a p4xi for 3Gun and love it. Used to have a Strike Eagle 1-6x but the stadia lines on the reticle were too thick (it's cheaper/easier to illuminate thick lines). The holdover lines were all too thick to be useful at 6x. Switched to the p4xi and it has been night and day. Better glass, nice clean reticle and daylight bright dot. Even though I lost 2x on the top end, I shoot way better at long range with it due to the better glass and more precise reticle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. .223 out to 600 yards

    Dude I thought about you as soon as the stage descriptions came out. The first thing in my head after reading stage 1 was "thank God that guy didn't listen to me and kept developing his long range load." Glad to hear you got a hit on it. That was our first stage of the match and halfway through my first mag, my rifle completely seized up and wouldn't budge. I had to sling it and shoot the pistol and shotgun targets. Wound up timing out and didn't even take a shot on the 620. I think that was karma kicking me in the butt. I put a screwdriver blade on one of the locking lugs and hammered the bolt forward so I could take the gun apart. Pulled the BCG out and there was a loose primer wedged under the gas key by the cam pin. Just bad luck. Awesome match though. I'm beat up and sore and can't wait for next year!
  13. I use the emdom split ammo sacs. They hold a lot of ammo and are easy to carry (if you get the shoulder strap), plus they are divided down the middle so I can carry rifle and pistol ammo in the same bag. I have another one for shotgun ammo that has birdshot in one side and slugs/buckshot in the other. Highly recommend them. http://www.emdomusa.com/Emdom-MM-Split-Ammo-SAC-p/eu149a.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. .223 out to 600 yards

    SKD PIG Alpha gloves are all I use now. They fit perfectly and give me enough dexterity so I can shoot my pistol and load my shotgun with them on. Plus they're not very expensive.
  15. .223 out to 600 yards

    I can definitely understand that. Can't remember the exact gun, some Rem 700 variant with a Nightforce on top. I don't know if they'll have the breaching shotgun and flashbang again this year, but I sure hope they do! Even if they don't though, there will be some awesome stages. I would also recommend wearing pants that have knee pads in them or bringing a set of knee pads so you don't get too beat up. Also bring a pair of thin shooting gloves in case your hands start getting torn up from climbing. Good luck!
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