Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mushki25

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 03/19/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Freedom WI
  • Real Name
    Chad Moll

Recent Profile Visitors

457 profile views
  1. How are you adapting to the new rules?

    My biggest adjustment is simply not shooting IDPA much at all any more. That said I did shoot an indoor match over the weekend that included the 5x5 classifier. My prediction is that it will not be around for very long in it's current format. An accurate shooter has more than 2.5 seconds on the draw and 0.5 second splits to make master with zero down. Not exactly master class shooting. This does not even account for the simple gaming that can be done by those that do such a thing. Due to mental malfunction reshoot of a string, you can shoot any string over and over and over again until your happy with the result and move on. Verify down zero or take an extra shot. You will see a lot of new masters once this becomes known and before the 5x5 disappears. Honestly IDPA was fun but those days are long gone.
  2. Dead trigger

    You probably checked it possibly you over travel screw worked itself in too far. I had an issue like that which only showed itself with one of my magazines.
  3. Quicker transitions

    This may very well be the best tip I have ever been given. The beats of the metronome forced me to keep up in dry fire practice. Live fire I saved a 1/2 second off my Blake drill with all good hits. I never would have pushed the pace fast enough to make that happen without first hearing the metronome. Thanks a ton Memphis Mechanic!
  4. Quicker transitions

    I want to tell you I can pull sub 2 sec bill drills but honestly while I can do them, I am more likely to go 2.3 all alpha or pull Charlie’s if I push it to beat 2 sec. All that said I still feel I need to speed up transitions in order to improve. Memphis Mechanic’s idea seems to have merit at least while dry firing. I get that the cadence firing will not be an option in competition, think it’s a great learning tool. Time will tell. I’m still open to any new ideas.
  5. Table start (production)

    I could not find the video to post a link but I have seen one where Max Michael shows exactly what you describe. That said I tried it and it works well but since most times that I run into a table start it is with an unloaded gun, I just stick to grabbing the gun with the strong hand so my weak hand is free to go for a magazine. This becomes second nature after a little practice. I’m sure any way of doing it will work quite well with only a little practice.
  6. Quicker transitions

    After a quick dry fire test I can say this is excellent advise. Thanks. I would be happy to hear any other tips as well.
  7. How Light is "Light"?

    My favorite trigger measures at 1.75 pounds but I think a crisp trigger is more important.
  8. junior shooter starting out - G17

    I have a still too young daughter that I have been working with only nerf guns to get ready to start this game. I originally thought that I would have her start on a .22 (her choice there a number to choose from) then move her to a single stack 9 for the smaller grip. I also thought the added weight would help. A buddy’s young son recently showed me the error in that logic because he simply was not strong enough to hold and fire the gun single handed, with weak hand being actually impossible. I think now that PCC may be the best starter gun for the youngsters. If they truly want to start on a pistol, maybe a smaller single stacked carry gun like a shield may do the trick but recoil may prove too harsh. I am very interested in this thread because my girl is already a dry fire machine itching to shoot for real and the only holding her from competition is her lack of being able to stay focused (safe) long enough for me to be able trust her with a loaded gun. Currently one shot at a time is the only actual shooting this over protective dad will allow.
  9. Quicker transitions

    The snow falling this morning leaves no room for error that the off season is upon me in northern Wisconsin. I have been trying to improve my transitions for a few months now with no real gain to my .25 sec. goal. I have read countless threads and tried many things in both dry and live fire but I am still basically stuck in the .45-.5 sec. range. I plan on working this to death this off season as next years goal of A class depends on it. I am interested in everyone’s aha moments to quicker transitions.
  10. .45 spp Have you actually had problems?

    I kinda prefer ssp brass. They let met make a run of 45 without changing over my primer assembly on my press. I know I add an extra 0.1 of powder because they were slightly slower. I can't say for sure but I believe it was 30 feet per second slower. I have also used magnum primers with them. It was still slightly slower but not by much.
  11. I'm ok with the PCC getting to score as major provided they shoot a 7mm Rem mag. That would be hilarious to see. I am sure each club is different but the local few that shoot pcc are for lack of a better phrase are a difficult and different group of guys. I would love to see them shoot 200 rounds of a high recoiling gun the one time they would try it. Right, wrong or other wise it would make me chuckle. Heck I'm chuckling just thinking about it.
  12. replacing a sear spring

    Update Gun is fully fixed now but it was not a direct path to get here. The first sear spring I installed was shorter than the one originally in the gun. I just figured it was a difference in manufacturing tolerances. This created a problem when I was firing the gun the disconnecter leg could get under the disconnecter. Turns out SVI triglide systems have a shorter disconnecter and longer sear spring. I ordered two triglide sear springs. Both needed the tab on the sear side removed to fit the gun, no space in there for the tab. With the tab removed there is only about .020 clearance. This means the original sear spring with the missing tab was not the problem after all. Back to the drawing board. The heavy trigger pull only happened with a mag freshly inserted into the gun. I could replicate the problem by pushing back on the bottom of a mag. The gremlin was a simple fix. Some how my over travel screw went in just a smidge too far. Now that I backed it out a quarter turn everything is fine. On the bright side I now have two new sear springs set for a clean 1.5 lb trigger pull, one in the gun and a spare. I also have the old one as a backup. I understand the gun a lot better. The gun has a few hundred round as setup and I am confident it's fully fixed. I do find it strange that the overtravel screw can be fine without a mag but with one be just a little too far in but that was the case.
  13. replacing a sear spring

    Well it's fixed. Functions perfectly with a crisp 2.4-2.6 trigger pull. Took a few tries to get the disconnector to work as it should. I don't really know why it gave me fits but full take down and reassemble fixed it. I could probably adjust the sear leaf slightly lower but I'm done for the night. I think I will reduce the trigger pull on my 1911 before I come back to this one, 2.5 pounds is fairly good but before it broke I had a sub 2 pound pull. Thanks
  14. Fiber Optic Front sight?

    It cannot hurt to try one, there is a reason they are so popular. If you don't like it try something else. Personally I like green.
  15. replacing a sear spring

    Thank you. I do understand what each of the leafs do. I have a fairly good idea of what I need to do. I was mainly worried if I would have to fuss with the sear/hammer interface. I did not think I would have to and after checking with the local guys, I now know that I will not. I worked a fair amount of years as a process engineer and have a habit of trying to eliminate any potential problems, aka I overthink things. I would still like to know if it's an old wives tail to not drop the slide on an empty chamber.