Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Kaldor

Classifieds
  • Posts

    336
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Kaldor

  • Birthday 02/24/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sauk City, WI
  • Real Name
    Corey Bos

Recent Profile Visitors

893 profile views

Kaldor's Achievements

Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. Ive had really good luck with my MEC. Very smooth and plenty of leverage.
  2. I used a master power switch, and put in the reverse on a separate switch. I do use a relay board and LEDs for sensing. I guess it still works the same, I just have a master power. I also used a much better motor than the standard cheap worm drives. They list the one from Grainger which is almost a direct copy of the one MBF uses, but its pricey. Im using a straight drive motor that sticks out the bottom further, but is definitely built better than the standard cheap worm drives in use like the one on my Karl Bibb feeder, for about the same price.
  3. Thats a pretty solid remix. I have printed a self modified version of the AM feeder and it works really well, but this is superior. The only thing I did maybe a little better was my electronics. I really like the fact that he has included the SCAD for making new parts fairly easily.
  4. Probably more than 3x the price... I can damn near outrun the case feeder on my Lee APP in pistol. Rifle is a little slower. And it costs $80 when you can find one.
  5. Id do what most of the guys here are saying. Load 55s for bulk blasting out to 200, and then good 68+gr bullets for longer range or bench shooting. A quality 7 twist will shoot a 55 with no issues. For 55s there really are only 2 options IMHO. Both from Hornady, either the FMJBT, or the SP. They run about 7 cents a piece in quantity. The SPs just had their base design changed so they have a slight boat tail on them, making them much easier to load. I have switched to the SPs as they dont tear up steels as much, and they can double as a decent small game bullet. Not a bad personal defense bullet either! For 68+gr, personally I shoot alot of 68gr Hornady BTHP Match. The price is decent and you can buy them in bulk. Accuracy runs right around a 1/2" in my gun. This is one of those things where you will have to play around to see whats best for you. Ive tested everything from Hornady and Sierra up to 77gr, and I keep coming back to the 68's. Primers... A piece of advice? Ive never had a need for a magnum primer, or a milspec primer like a CC 41 in 223, ever. And that includes some pretty hot loads with some heavier bullets. Stick with standard primers. My favorites are still CC 400s. Powders? I use all Hodgdon powder, so other may have very valid points on other manufacturers. Right now I only use 3 powders for 223. H335 for 55gr blaster ammo, and 8208 XBR for accuracy loads. The 3rd, and Im transitioning to it, is CFE 223, which will be used for 55gr loads as I can likely get better velocity from it as it burns slower. All 3 of those powder will run thru a rotary drop and meter very accurately. I love Varget for my 308, but its such a PITA on a progressive when Im trying to get some work done. My brass is all range or once fired. I build accuracy loads on Lake City as its a known quantity, even if the year headstamp isnt identical. Blammo 55gr ammo is whatever comes out of the bucket.
  6. Ive never found TG to be very dirty to be honest, and Ive run my 5" M&P Pro over a 2000 rounds with TG and 147s just to see last summer over a couple of range trips. Had no issues, maintenance was minimal, just a couple of drops of oil on the slide and barrel hood before shooting. Cleanup was the same as any other powder, just hose the slide with cleaner of choice, scrub it a little, rinse with BrakeClean, grease/oil, assemble. The one thing it is is hot. Not ruin HiTek or plated bullet hot, but it will warm your gun up when you shoot 4-5 mags thru the gun in short order.
  7. Buy this: Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Powder Funnel Die $18 from Midway. I use this in combination with my CM1500 for all load workups. Probably cuts my load dev time by half. Case activated, small footprint, and the price is right.
  8. I order one day, and I have them 2 days later generally. 15k pistol bullets later, Im more than happy. They have really good CS as anyone that has gotten in touch with them can attest to.
  9. Ive never been a big fan of the expanders that Hornady has, so I switched to a Lyman M-die. You have to expand less, but makes for easier seating. Might be worth your while. I use a FCD for alot of calibers, and the only thing I can say on the FCD is start with as minimal crimp as you can get away with. Over crimping is worse that under crimping.
  10. Im not really interested in the swaging dies, but I did talk to Wayne (owner) quite a bit on Facebook messenger. My biggest issues with decapping are dealing with flash holes that are slightly off center, and maybe some that are undersized for SP 45 brass. The off center brass is dealt with by letting the pin pull a slight offset to deal with this, and you can use a smaller diameter pin for decapping small flash holed cases. Im not in a hurry to buy, as I probably wont run a big decapping run until November, but at that time, I will be picking one up for running in my LnL for big runs of brass.
  11. What about trying Win 572? Looks to be about the same burn rate as 3N38 and AA#7?
  12. Thanks! My only concern was cup thickness to be honest. The 400s are .020" and the 500s are .017". Supposedly the Win LPP are .020". I think it will fire them, because both guns have seen plenty of Win LPPs. So I guess I know what Ill be doing tonite
  13. I know a few guys around here use SRPs of various manufacture for other pistol calibers. I have a ton of CCI 400 primers on hand and a few thousand pieces of SP 45 brass. Anyone see any issue with using these? Id obviously work this up, but does anyone see any issues that could happen mechanics wise? Would be shot from a M&P 2.0 and a 1911.
×
×
  • Create New...