Supranatural

Okay I have been working my way towards my first USPSA match, live fire and lots and lots of dry fire practice. Just haven't had the time yet to make it out for my first match. Anyway been working a lot on reload drills, specifically drills from Ben Stoeger's books. On most of them I've achieved the "advanced" times and of course most of that comes from gun handling like the draw and especially reloads themselves. On most videos and sources I've found on the web they say that when I pull the magazine out from the pouch to pull it with my index finger on the bullet. Well, I don't have large hands and I've found that it's difficult to consistently grasp the magazine far down enough that I pull out the mag in that position. I can do it for a stretch if I really try to do it but then I revert back to having my index finger about 2/3 way up the mag. How do most of you have your index finger positioned? If I'm achieving (and beating) the times in Stoeger's book for advanced level does it really matter (i.e., do you think it would help me be even faster or more consistent)?

Isn't Travis using an Open gun with a magwell that lends itself very well to fast reloads like that? I'm looking at Brian Enos' book (Practical Shooting Beyond Fundamentals) and it clearly shows him lowering the gun to about sternum level. I'm also pretty sure I've read somewhere by one of the USPSA GMs (maybe it was Stoeger or Hopkins) that you should reload around sternum level because you have a higher level of coordination at that spot in your body - don't ask me where I read it but I've been working a lot on my reloads and researching everything I can find about it and I found that my reloads became more consistent when I reload around sternum level when I'm pushing the envelope for my skill/speed level.

Okay aside from the typical stuff (take the mag apart, clean it, lube internally) do I have to do anything to the external part of the mag? The reason I ask is that I do a lot of reloading drills in dry fire and I noticed my black MecGar CZ mags have shiny spots where the black paint has worn off. Do I have to worry about corrosion/rust? Do I/Should I put a light coat of oil on these spots? Or is it a non issue for a regularly used pistol (i.e., if I get another pistol I use a lot more should I do something to the mags to protect against corrosion)?

I'm a noob so I have to ask..it seems counter intuitive that a heavier bullet would have less recoil. I would think that a heavier bullet, requiring more force to get moving (faster burning powder as someone posted about in this thread), would create more ft lb of energy that would translate to more felt recoil...

Are you allowed to remove the right side safety lever or must it remain on for USPSA rules? That's the one that I find myself hitting, never the left (thumb) side one...

Use what works for you. I happen to like the thin aluminum grips and was considering trying something with a more aggressive checker instead of the tape grip but I'm not really motivated as the thin Al seems to work just fine for me plus I like the way it looks.

Do you carry with IWB holster? If so what holster do you use?

Am I understanding this correctly, changing the trigger alone will change over from DA/SA to SAO?

Also here is a direct link for the blue grips for the Shadows http://dlaskarms.com/collections/cz-custom-and-accessories/products/cz-75-75b-85-low-profile-grips-standard-size-aluminum-blue Any idea if those grips are the the same thickness as the "thin" aluminum grips that come on the Shadow?

Are you telling me they're not scratch proof???

Sounds almost exactly like my setup. Boss DOH holster is great, I love it, like they say on the website, they don't call it Boss because it sucks! .

Just curious, what is the rationale for replacing the stock base pads, is there a performance or durability improvement?

How do you get the Benos discount?

Bigger factor is that you need to be a virgin shooter to use the Unicorn...most of will have to choose Hippogriff...

I've always found it funny that some people (and I'm not saying you are as your post shows that obviously you understand the idea behind the cost of a pistol and it's value to the user) will say for the "price of xxx brand I could buy 2 of yyy brand" or "that is $300 more than yyy brand" when in the end the cost of the pistol is minor in the scheme of things if you really shoot a lot (and enjoy it). I can see for the very, very casual gun owner who wants to buy a gun for home defense that will be shot a couple of times at the range then left in a safe in the bedroom waiting to be deployed in the most dire of circumstances, in that case the least expensive Glock makes a lot of sense. I do a lot of big game fly fishing and when someone finds out I spend $1,500 to $2,000 on one of my fly reels (when a typical high end fly reel usually goes for $500-$700), never realizing that the cost of my fly reel is but a small part of my annual fishing budget.