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RonofVa

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About RonofVa

  • Birthday 02/14/1951

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  1. I am not sure if this information is outdated, I made this list years ago. I hope it helps. Maybe you could update, or add to it. Primers (what dropped primer did you find?) Small Pistol .175 diameter Federal – Green under Anvil w/brass center Winchester – Red under Anvil Small Rifle .175 diameter CCI – light Brass colored under anvil Winchester – Black under Anvil w/gold shell body Federal – Green under Anvil w/purple center Small Rifle-MAGNUM Hard to tell I got mismarked box CCI Silver colored shell, with light brass color under anvil CCI Magnum- Brass colored anvil, with copper under anvil mixed copper and brass colored(mismarked box) Large Pistol .210 diameter Federal – Green under Anvil Federal Magnum- Green under Anvil w/blue dot in middle Winchester- Brass colored under anvil Large Rifle .210 diameter Winchester – light colored Red under Anvil Federal – Dark colored Red under Anvil (oversprayed pocket looks full) ----------------------------
  2. I have an Entirely Crimson Bullet collator. It came with instructions of assembly. It also contains a list of motors, switches which can be purchased on ebay. You might find its assembly instructions pdf file useful. Just google "Entirely Crimson Bullet Collator" and you will find a link to the pdf file. (I tried to post the link, but it tries to insert the entire file to my post.)
  3. I have a S1050, and when I first got it I was picking up spent primers or spent primer parts all over the floor. I saw several solutions on the internet, tried a couple but was not satisfied in any of them. I could see no reason why the regular Dillon primer cup wouldn’t be sufficient to catch enough primers during a reloading session. This thing catches all the primers and any parts of primers ejected from the de-priming process and drops all the components in the cup. It is a piece of quarter inch aluminum, with a 3/8” flared copper tube, held in place by a rare-earth magnet and positioned by adjusting the set screws to exactly center the tube under the primer shoot. (A cutoff flared .38 caliber case would also work if you don’t have any copper tubing and a flaring tool.) I have not picked up any primer parts since I made this.
  4. Thanks for the interest, but I will hang on to it. (for now) Ron
  5. I don’t know exactly how long I have had the Collator. I bought it right after it was introduced. It came disassembled for $155. I have a 1050, but it was designed for a 650 so it was designed to sit on the left side of the case feeder. It was difficult to reposition it on the right side. A short time after I complained publicly on AR-15 forum about this issue. The inventor developed one that would fit on the right side which the S1050 needs. It was a short time after that, as I understand it, Double Alpha threatened the inventor to cease and desist or he would sue him for patent infringement. The Entirely Crimson bullet collator disappeared from the market. The Crimson came with a parts list that can be purchased individually online if anyone wants to copy it. “Google” the Entirely Crimson Bullet Collator and you will find a PDF with all the parts listed. Not the plastic parts, just the motor, switches, etc. I bought it on a whim, I use homemade drop dies and bullet tubes. I really don’t mind reloading my bullet tubes. It gives me a chance to take a break, and to check everything, refill primers etc. So I have not been totally motivated to complete the project.
  6. If you are going to cobble something together, you might consider the Andoer tripod fluid head. It should make adjustment very easy. If you want to mount it temporarily to a camera tripod the hole in the bottom of the mount is 3/8-16, so an adapter is needed since most camera tripods are ¼-20. I bought this last year and adapted it to my Entirely Crimson Bullet Collator. I have yet to finish the project. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Andoer-Q08-Video-Tripod-Ball-Head-3-way-Fluid-Head-Rocker-Arm-with-Quick-Release-Plate-for-DSLR-Camera/549503380
  7. You cannot produce accurate precision loads with a 3X scope. I don’t care how good you are. Buy a 6.5-20x for load testing. Sort your bullets like in the photo using a comparator and use them in groups. Weigh each of your powder charges separately before even trying to use a progressive press. Develop a load to the velocity you want. Then experiment with group size by seating the bullets 3-5 thousandths longer, then 3-5 thousandths shorter. These tips will go a long way in getting you to where you want to be.
  8. I make my own bullet drop dies out of steel and brass, they work really well. No way I am putting bullets in the tubes one at time. Throw the bullets on the sorting block and push them one way or the other. Now that everybody is inline.
  9. On my 1050, the "Swag connecting rod" #13417 has the zerk fitting facing forward. I am not sure it makes any difference, but that is the way mine is, and it is the way it is shown in the book. So it appears that this one is on backwards.
  10. The Hornady is difficult to read. Not so with the Redding. At least with these old tired eyes. The Redding has a hole in the top of the die so you can adjust to zero/zero anywhere you want while the die is facing forward. Then use the Micro on the front of the die to adjust for different bullets. By the time you have spent the money on the Hornady seating die, and then the add on Micrometer, you could have almost bought a Redding. I bought the add on Hornady for a new caliber to save money, and regret it. (I have several Redding bullet seating dies and wish I had gone first class from the beginning. But I saved enough money to take the wife to Burger King )
  11. I made my own bullet feed dies; I think they are similar to the Mr. Bullet feeder drop dies. Although I have never seen a Mr. Bullet feed die in person. I coupled my dies with aluminum, or brass couplers to heavy wall plastic tubes I bought from eBay. One end of the coupler is bored to the OD of the plastic tube, and the other end is bored to the OD of the drop die. In the middle of the coupler is a shoulder or an area where the plastic tube sits on, and the feed die stops. The shoulder has a hole for the bullet to drop through. If you have a lathe you can make the coupler, and buy the plastic tubes from eBay. I also fabricated a wooded block to allow me to load the drop tubes easily. You throw a handful of bullets on the block, then push them one way or the other.
  12. I have RCBS, Redding, and Hornaday micro-adjustable seating dies. I like Redding by a long shot. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/200390/redding-competition-seater-die-308-winchester BTW; I would also get a six pack of Hornaday lock rings. Mid-South is cheaper than Midwayusa http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00005044606/Sure-Loc-Die-Lock-Ring-%286-Count%29-
  13. JMorris, I have seen some of your stuff, and I am very impressed. You do good work. I bought the Entirely Crimson Bullet feeder. It was made for the 650, and it took a while to adapt it to my 1050, but I got it done. It is still very finicky. It is not nearly as well made as the Mr.BF, but it will do. I still like just the vertical tubes, as I never get an upside down bullet and can concentrate on everything else, and it never jams. Foxbat: I first bought the Hornaday die. I didn’t like it. I adapted it to the Lee Magazine, by making an adapter/coupler. Then I found that it was too tall for my 1050, so I shortened it by making a new sleeve. I still didn’t like it. I then perfected the homemade drop dies, and no longer use the Hornaday. It is in 45 caliber, if you want it, I can send it to you to try. If you like it, send me the money you would have paid for a new one, or you can send it back to me. I think you should go straight for the Mr.BF die. ronofvirginia@cox.net
  14. What are the bullet drop dies in that picture? I too was kind of leaning in that direction, since I have many 650 tool heads. I presume you made those bushings? Those drop dies are “homemade”. Most were made before I learned of Mr. Bulletfeeder drop dies. But that is another story. The cheapest way to go would be to buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder drop die, and a Lee magazine. I don’t know if the Lee magazine can be married to the Mr. Bulletfeeder die without some type of adapter. Before the Lee magazine, I bought some clear plastic tubes off ebay, and made couplings for my dies. Then I bought the Lee magazine. The bottom of the Lee magazine takes a 9/16” sleeve, I don’t know what the diameter of the Mr. BF sleeve is. You would have to explore that.
  15. I use a similar set up, using homemade drop dies, and a Lee magazine. There is no way in hell I am dropping them in a tube one at a time. I throw a handful of bullets on my sorting block, and then I push them one way or the other. Ok, everybody get in line. But I prefer the single column. But the sorting block works for both.
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