Canuck-IL

Excellent - thanks for the direction! /B

Good evening, I'm looking for advice on replacing an Allchin mount (3 holes left, 2 holes right) on a CZ 75. Discovered this gun while helping with a friend's estate. A couple of prospective purchasers are concerned that when the OKO sight dies, they'll be left with a useless frame mount and nothing to stick in it. Are there any mounts that utilize the same hole pattern to mount a C-More? All I've seen in some poking around is an Allchin that's blank - you drill the holes as desired...wondering if there's not a bolt-on replacement for what's on the gun now. Not wedded to a C-More, they'd just like the assurance that something still available can be mounted with minimal 'smithing. Thanks /Bryan

Thanks for the extra details. /Bryan

Looks good! They offer about 50 different coatings ... did they recommend the salt-nitride specifically for firearms or was that your choice? How about disassembly - have they a 'smith on staff or did you send everything broken down in a basket? Any other details you care to share would be great. /Bryan

LPA offers some but they are going to sit up high ... Bullseye shooters style. http://www.lpasights.com/catalog2.html /Bryan

Dioptors are additive so if -2.75 is her ideal long distance lens, she would normally add between .5 and .75 to that figure to get a net of -2.25 to -2.00 ... a full 1.0 on top of regular glasses seems a little too strong than is common but, that would yield a net of -1.75. I just went through all this last week and had the optometrist confirm the 'common wisdom' about shooting lenses. Just get a dedicated pair of safety glasses or a high-end model made up with that script for the shooting eye. The off eye is personal preference - I left the full distance prescription in for seeing the HP target markers at 200 yds. Some folks use a blinder or tape to reduce the light on the off eye and facilitate shooting with both eyes open. Others put in a lens to better allow use of a scope for LR or HP at 300 and 600. /Bryan

55 FMJs are not inherently very accurate bullets ... you can find several better at 52 or 62 grains from Sierra, Nosler, Berger, maybe Hornady. Faster twist barrels (1: 7, 7.7 or 8) can stabilize heavier bullets ... most HP shooters use 75 Hornady and 80 Horandy AMax, 77 / 80 Sierra and Noslers for 300 and 600 yd shots. The lighter bullets might be OK in a fast twist but it's an individual thing - need to try it. I use RL-15 and AA2460 for 69 and 77/80; 4895 and Varget are also good but don't meter as well. For the occ short match (100 yds), I'll use 52gr Sierra matchKings and 335. /Bryan

The Dillon or the Giraud - there are really no other serious contenders for volume work. That said, I've got a long winter to prep brass so I still struggle along with one of the lathe designs ... these are manual cranks altho you can get drill adapters for them. Wilson (at Sinclair), Hornady, RCBS, etc all offer something similar - I prefer the Hornady for easy, precise adjustment. Lyman's cheaper one wobbles the case too much but their better model is same as the others - - around $65. Lee has a 'zip trim' that looks shoddy but some folks like them for $20 - has a 'lawn mower' pull cord. Possum Hollow has a caliber specific hand trimmer that looks interesting for only $20 but I haven't tried it. It can also be drill powered. /B

Not too much difference except for all the little case prep steps that are done between resizing and loading. I decap using a universal die on a single stage just to keep the crap out of the progressive...tumble either before or after decapping - some do it each way. I then lube the case, resize it and tumble again to remove the lube. If you're decapping and resizing in one step, just be sure to lube. Now, off the press and.... Trim the brass, deburr and chamfer the mouth and, depending upon how anal one is, you can ream primer pockets, deburr flash holes, etc. Now you can get back on the progressive and prime, drop powder and seat the bullet. If dies are correctly adjusted, you should not need to crimp. Some folks like to handprime before going back to the press. That's about it - a lot more case handling than for pistol but, good ammo at a better than retail price....when one can find primers. /Bryan

Pistol micrometer - don't try and read the little bitty numbers - use a caliper and measure the spread to the head. I use a brass rod on top of the primer stack - the deadweight keeps those last 2 in the tube feeding smoothly. One-Shot works great - just not for bottleneck calibers. Use Dawn or some similar grease cutter on the powder drop tube - nastly packing film in there. Hoppe's or similar on new dies and metal parts. Great press ... blow out the primer slide and hose over the plate with compressed air every now and then, lube the fittings every blue moon - runs forever, great consistency with most powders. /Bryan

I've got Accurails on a couple of Bullseye guns - very nice, gotta keep'em lubed. Since Ti apparently presents some unique problems, call the shop and see what their comments are about any anticipated difficulties in running a Damascus slide with a railed frame. /Bryan

You probably should pre-order and have it waiting for you somewhere - they're frequently on backorder, as are plates. /Bryan

I don't think so. Quote from Dillon site... "The RT 1200B is used just like a standard size die. The big difference is that while you are pushing the case into the die to size it, a 1/4 horsepower electric motor driving a carbide cutter is trimming the case to length." So it trims while sizing - can't trim beforehand unless you're just taking a guess as to the average case growth. /Bryan

Berry's or Rainier are used at times for the short line but they don't have the accuracy for 50 yds. Right ... on a 1911 platform essentially what can be done internally to refit the barrel and improve the trigger (4#s min) is copasetic. Externally, you can change sights to Bomar or such (no optics) with any open notch rear and fixed front, slide cuts to allow sights are OK, max radius 7.25", stipple/checker the front and rear straps, trigger shoes/stops OK, all safetys functional, any finish, 1.3" total grip width max, barrel 5.1" max, lowered ejection port, functioning half-cock notch or Series 80 firing pin safety. Similar mods allowed on an M9. These loads were posted as suggestions from a commercial reloader on the Bullseye forum. Long Line (New Brass, Starline, preferred): 4.2 grs VVN310 4.2 grs Clays 4.6 grs BE 4.8 grs of HTG 4.7 grs S1000 5.4 grs W231 4.8 grs WST Short Line (reloaded cases ... ignoring the 'spirit' of the awards which specified ball at both distances) 4.2 grs HTG 3.8 grs Clays 4.0 grs BE 4.6 grs W231 Spec: OAL: 1.265" Nominal Crimp: .470" Typical (.469 works well) Primer: WLP (hottest ignition) /B

Not hardly - 3.9 is a wadgun load - ie. classic Bullseye, 200gr, LSWC at 740fps or so ... 4.6 BE is the GI equivalent (assuming you don't believe BE really was down powered after Hercules got rid of it .... if you think the current offering is weaker, then it's 5.0 BE for hardball). /B