longbeard

Thanks, I have two people where I am that have had issues with czc plates. They had someone manufacture steel plates to solve the issue. It seems the majority of people are just fine. It would be nice to have the rear sight, which this variant includes as a plate.

I have an opportunity to buy one of the optics ready variants where the plate system comes from the factory. I know the czc plates system has had some issues with the plates staying put. Does anyone have any experience with the factory plate system?

They work great for PCC. However, if you use a hot powder like Titegroup it will make a mess out of the comp.

Generally, your comb height will relate to the view you have through the window. Too low or too high and the dot will be at the top or bottom of the glass due to the angle you are looking through the window. You can add risers to the rail or comb to control this if need be. You want the mounted gun to give u a good window view. After that, adjusting elevation on the optic itself should not move the dot so substantially that it's out of the field of view. It's adjusted with set screws on the optic. Generally a few clicks to get it dialed in.

I don't think there is any substitute for using the same gun. Particularly with regards to dot movement and tracking which relates to your recoil comment. Anything the 22lr is going to do for you could be gained with dry fire IMO. I know I have repeatedly learned that in shooting sports, there are few economical short cuts. It's just an $$ hobby!

I stopped shooting these because of this issue. There are various methods to clean. They all seem to provoke emotional responses from forum members. I used a 7/8 hole saw with an extension and the pilot removed. Worked very well. Went slow to protect the crown. Never had an issue. PVC just didn't have the strength to remove heavy build up. I pulled several ounces out of my shroud once I used the hole saw. Buildup got so bad it effected my accuracy by putting the barrel in a bind against the shroud. Best strategy is to shoot fmj and avoid serious build up caused by coated and plated bullets. Good luck.

SNS bullets have a fine product as well as Blue Bullets. Plated bullets can be more brittle than coated. Watch for cracking if you go that route. All can cause leading on a comp if you use Titegroup. A cooler powder like sport pistol is recommended.

If a small tweak is legal and gets you more comfortable I say it's worth it. However, before buying a whole other gun I personally would make sure I have dry fired diligently. We've all had the "If I change guns maybe it will be better" thought. Generally, it comes down to enough practice. Case in point, I just recently parted ways with my CO Shadow. PHENOMENAL GUN. However, I could just never get comfortable with it. They just are not real comfortable for me. I decided this after shooting 10's of thousands of rounds over the years through a few different ones.

Sorry. I don't.

This works well. https://codaevolution.com/products/swift-pcc-magpouch Most pistol mag pouches are fine as well, but a big stick with extended base pad is unwieldly in length. The above with it's long pouch allows you get the base pad to a position similar to where a pistol mag would be.

I'm with you. Striker guns will never have a trigger like a hammer hook and sear system. However, I am pretty sure the reset can be improved with the right components as evidenced by watching some videos. I just want to understand thoroughly before I spend $100. Looks to me like the AC trigger is a good bet and perhaps the Apex trigger bar. AC triggers are unicorns @ the moment unfortunately.

I have the flat non adjustable gg kit. Which imo has very little over travel thus the over travel adjustment isn't critical to me. It's the distance to get the trigger to reset which is much further than anything I'm used to. The AC trigger claims to improve this, but I don't quite understand how set screws will fix the reset position. Seems to me that either is done with a trigger bar or with changing the geometry of the trigger lever itself. Is that what the AC and Keres do?

So has anyone definitely decided if the Apex trigger bar paired with the GG trigger is a good thing?

I read that, but I've also noticed that keros says for the X5. Has something changed? I understand that the trigger allows pre and over travel adjustments, but this isn't really going to change the distance it takes to reset? Or are those trigger using a different geometry as well?