Darqusoull13

Every day I thank people like @shred for showing me the light and the way that is, was and will be 38 SC in Open. I regret nothing about it. Best decision ever.

Try the new Vortex Defender-ST. It's the same footprint and much, much more robust. I ran mine in a Stoeger class back in Feb when they released and it was solid over a couple thousand rounds in 2 days. I'll be running it more now that I'm done with irons and Heavy division until TX3G 2025.

Nothing compares to the JP-5 in competition. Reliability, ergonomics, manual of arms, minimal recoil. The other is something for collectors or folks that don't compete. Might be neat, but not for serious competitors.

They run extremely well suppressed. We ran 4 shooters through a 250 round match with zero issues. The gun was not clean to start either. No, 9mm is by nature not all that gassy. Easily 2" or better. 9mm is not a precision round to begin with. Accuracy is far better than what is needed for a 9mm carbine.

No need. I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes.

Mine have weighed between 5 lbs and 12 lbs with optics. You can build them as light or as heavy as you prefer.

As a general rule of thumb, building off a single manufacturer's operating system typically yields far better reliability and less troubleshooting in the long run. Example: JP Lower, Trigger, Bolt, Barrel and Buffer (SCS). Everything is made to work as a system and has been tested with the other parts. Swap whatever other furniture you want, but when it comes to operating components, stick to a single quality brand.

I run a Vortex UH-1 as the main and a Defender-ST on the 45 degree offset. JP 45 degree mount for the offset dot. If you're set on a dot on top instead of a holographic run Double ST's. Very clear glass, large window, solid on both my pistols and PCC's. One of my loaner JP-5's runs the ST on top and it gets bashed around like a rental. Still solid

This or similar has been awesome for SCSA storage. Husky 4-Tier Industrial Duty Steel Freestanding Garage Storage Shelving Unit in Black (77 in. W x 78 in. H x 24 in. D) We have since added a 3rd set of shelves for everything in the back. Getting things off the ground has been awesome. Everything goes back in its place. It's a very "paint by color" system. Things go back with the things of similar shape and size. Put 5 target hangers in a 5 gallon bucket along with a laminated printout of a stage. Add 2 cans of white paint, 1 can of black paint, 1 can of red paint. 8 buckets and you just pull the "stage" at set up along with (5) 2x4's, 5 stands, a start box, a table and the correct plates.

Dillon has very detailed instructions on setting up crimp in their set up guide. Generally though, don't bother adjusting crimp in pistol rounds after it's set up properly. As far as trash brass, some pistols won't even chamber certain brands of brass reloaded with bullets over x weight or seated past certain depths. The reason is the case isn't tapered like a proper 9 mm case but instead stepped. Reloading into that step causes a bulge that is over chamber dimensions. If you're using mixed brass and have too many of those cases, either find another source of brass or try to cull as best you can. If you're using a Hundo case gauge that's where I'd recommend giving the head stamps a once over for the final check. Toss the trash brass in "zero only" or practice piles.

It's all funny until you realize guys like Grant can react faster than the 0.3 s that the beep is going off.

Let's bump Major up to 170 (+?). That will simultaneously kill 40 and 9 Major

Are you using mixed brass? If so, are the pieces of brass landing closer stepped cases? Examples of such trashy brass being FM, Xtreme etc.

No worries, usually is mags. TTI +10's should come with a new spring. TTI for 17 round GLOCK mags don't need a different spring but only add 4. Double check your springs are the correct length and you took out all the other bits other than the spring and follower from the GLOCK mags. From there, load the mags completely and feel the pressure of the bullet column as you slowly remove bullets by hand feeding. The column should move with vigor as each round is removed. If you feel the follower get stuck at the transition, you still have something catching.