gigs

I agree with that. The only case insert issue that can damage rims is it they aren't fully inserting and then they advance while not being fully in the shellplate so that the next station button forces them in at an odd angle. Can also be caused by debris in the shell plate not allowing them to fully seat. But you'd probably notice that since it causes a big racket and sometimes cases fly out when that happens. A damaged shellplate could cause it (for example crushed by a stray decapper pin), but you'd notice it most likely because the brass wouldn't freely enter and exit one station. Check each shellplate station for easy insertion and removal, and take a little piece of wire or a dental pick and run it around the bottom of each case holder groove to clean it and check for burrs/damage.

They are 1050 rods. The tips are the same as far as I know though, and that's what wears out.

I told him to call you guys so hopefully he took care of it. Thanks for the confirmation.

Yeah I'm aware the really old ones had a different design, but the newest design should still have them right?

I had a customer call me to say that Dillon has changed the design of the case feeder, and that his was missing the metal tab that I recommend sticking an allen wrench under for 300 blackout in my listing for the shim washer: I told him closing that window is far more important than tweaking the shell plate height and not to buy the thin shim washer until he calls Dillon to confirm that the metal tab really isn't supposed to be there. He never got back to me. I see that the curved plate goes inside the bowl on their feeder on some pictures on their web site (as opposed to being screwed at the top), so they have revised the design, but is it really the case that the metal tab on the dropping window isn't supposed to be there anymore?

Yeah, they wear out. I have quite a collection.

He did say 9mm so swaging might be an issue. Depends on if he wants to sort out mil stuff.

You can carefully bend the end of the switch lever out slightly with two thin screwdrivers to give it a little more solid action and prevent it getting stuck if it happens again or if you start getting overruns because it's not closing. Just a little bit is all you need.

Sorry to necropost, but my order from April 2014 still hasn't been filled. He did email me in February after I posted here, but I haven't heard anything since.

On my motor presses the nuts do get loose sometimes. I still use the Dillon style nuts, but I got a 1 inch deep socket so I can get them tight easily and loosen them easily without busting my knuckles any more. The GSI wrench is nice as well, but the socket makes it easy on the dies that aren't really tall.

With 45 pistol and not actually swaging you shouldn't need the clutch really tight. The only time you really need to crank the clutch on a drive tight is when you are doing actual swaging or sizing rifle brass.

I have a heck of a time with CCI #41. Brass has to be swaged really good to take them. I prime brass with them because people seem to want them, but man they are annoying.

Aren't they clear anyway? The only issue is that the clamp might crack the polycarbonate if you don't pad it. Normal non-transparent hoppers are HDPE or the like so they aren't brittle.

I was working on a whole decapper die to fight suck-back, but the prototype was a hassle to use. I need to take it back to the drawing board. In the mean time you can bevel and polish your decapping pins and help with this to a large extent.

There's several ways to mount it: High mounting option, sorry for bad picture: