glc

I'm curious to read the replies to your question. I built one in 2015. I just went with a Bravo Company std. 16" mid length 5.56 barrel. I've read where there could be a slight difference, but I'm thinking good precision reloads would compensate if there is a difference in the two barrel types. I reload my 5.56 for plinking and target shooting. All of my brass is from factory 5.56 ammo, but I also have some 223 brass from factory stuff. I reloaded for 40 S&W, and 45 ACP since 2013. I just added 9mm. I didn't start reloading for my AR until 2017.

I bought the Presto digital food dehydrator. Works really well completely drying the cases!

I use the EGW case gauges, and they have always passed the plunk test too.

Thanks for that info Sarge. I've read though the neck is a bit tighter number, and if using the Redding die or any push through, you still need to run them through your sizing die to get the neck in tolerance.

Well, not sure what the deal is with my Dillon dies then. I have about 500 nickel once fired that I was going to scrap, but decided to reload them and not worry about picking up the spent cases. I just run them through my sizing die on my 550B and I get .422 to .424 around the head. The neck is .415 to .418. The case length is almost consistent .842. I think I'm OK with these. What you think?

I also agree that H335 is a very good choice!

When I got my Gen 4 G23, I opted for once fired. I bought Win nickel and brass. Rem RP nickel and brass. Speer nickel and brass, Fed nickel. Blazer brass, and even some CCI brass. All in all I probably purchased a total of 1,500 once fired of the brands mentioned. That was back in 2013, and I still have and load over half of the lot. The only change is the nickel. I do not pick it up anymore. Starting around 2015, I started buying Starline. I can't be happier with that brass. For sure, one of the best on the market. Flawless reloads, and that goes for all my once fired I purchased. I have never had any types of issues with any of them.

I didn't see this thread until today. I also bought (1,000) once fired cases with a collet crimp. I didn't know they were collet crimped until I received them. Personally, I don't care for that type of crimp for reloading but I had to deal with it. Cases are Winchester 5.56. I'm assuming your acceptable length is longer than 1.750? I'm asking because every single case needed trimmed. Yes, the collet crimp isn't fun to deal with, but it is doable. As posted, most of the crimp will get trimmed away from the longer cases. But there are ones that don't need a lot of material removed, so pretty much all of the crimp is still there. The finished rounds do not look or "feel" as nice as taper crimped rounds, but they are perfectly fine. My seating/crimp die is just a standard Redding steel die. You really can't tell from the pic, but they feel fairly smooth at the cannelure.

I just started reloading my 223 ammo, and didn't find it difficult at all. I just use the steel Redding dies in an old Lee single stage press. Got the seat depth set and thought if I could get the crimp pretty much like factory, I'd do it. Started fooling with the crimp. Seat and crimp in one operation. I think it turned out fairly decent.

It's not as easy to pull a pistol bullet with it because there isn't much to grab. Just take your time and get the depth right so you're not grabbing the case. As others have posted, a Lee single stage with this puller works great. IMHO, of course.

Same here.

Sorry, it's an RL550B. Yes, I loosen/tighten the set screw. The machine is still relatively new, being only 8 months old. I don't understand why after disassembly, and basically cleaning nothing it's completely smooth for a while. Greg

Thanks. That is what I was hoping to hear. The rough cycling is what's doing it then, but not on my part. For some reason after a while, the shellplate will not rotate freely. It starts to act as though it's scraping on something and it's difficult to be gentle. Very random when it happens. Annoying as all heck. I'll take the plate off clean everything (but really nothing there) put it back together and it's smooth as glass for a while then the same thing again. I even have the little needle bearing under the bolt head, and I make sure it's not too tight. Still the same results. Greg

Hey guys. I just finished loading 600 rounds of .40 S&W. All came out fine, until I did the final 100. Could flakes of powder on top of the primer plunger cause this? I did see a few here and there, but didn't think anything of it. If it is caused by powder, is it something I should take extra care in making sure the plunger is clean. I do blow everything off after every 100 rounds. Greg

Yes,after reading a lot of the posts,I see why published fps,and actual fps will most likely always be different. I'm not expecting to get anything near the Hodgdon average,but I'm happy that my most recent numbers are far more consistent than the first ones. From now on I'll always chrono on sunless days. Greg