OldSchool45

I would stay with a mechanical scale. Since you won't be using it to directly load from, any additional speed offered by the electronic is sort of pointless. My Dillon 550 stayed boxed up for over 10 yrs before I finally was able to clear some space in the basement and get set back up again. While it had no rust, it was extremely stiff when trying to operate the ram (my guess is the lube got stiff and/or dried out). Although I didn't disassemble it, I put a few drops of Breakfree CLP on the ram and a drop or two on each linkage and started operating the handle full stroke 50-60 times. After wiping off the dirty residue and excess CLP, I lightly re-oiled it with some 30 wt motor oil and began loading. Within the first box or two, it operated smoother than ever!

I had a similar problem with my priming system last year. It turns out that the primer seating punch had worked itself loose over time, allowing it to protrude too far out of the primer slide. Over time and several hundred rounds, it became slightly bent, thus damaging the priming cup. The punch was bent to the point that it wouldn't completely seat in the slide. I ended up getting new parts from Dillon, who were kind enough to also send me a new slide. After installing the new slide, punch, and cup, I readjusted the seating punch and locked it down. After a bit of slide adjustment, it was feeding primers like new.

While I've heard people complain that they can't get Unique to accurately throw in their Dillon measures, I've never heard of the problem you describe. My 550B is over 20 years old and I use Unique in it all the time with absolutely no issues. However, I switched to W231 for loading .45acp. No real reason, other than it's a bit cheaper for the loads I shoot. Sent from my Verizon phone using Tapatalk

I'm not quite sure how a bronze brush could hurt a steel barrel. Lead typically requires a mechanical scrubbing action to remove, unless you're using the old (hazardous) liquid mercury method, or the aforementioned electrolysis method. That said, the Lewis Lead Remover does a good job. It uses a brass or bronze screen that is pressed into the barrel grooves by an expandable rubber mandrel and pulled through the barrel. But all-in-all, a bronze brush with a good bore solvent will do a decent job of removing lead from all but the most fouled of barrels. Sent from my Verizon phone using Tapatalk

I thought the punch was bent, so went to remove it and discovered the set screw had allowed it to rise up out of the bar slightly. Then, I read Dillon's recommendation to make sure it's seated properly in the bar. The punch is supposed to be locked solidly in the bar. The cup is the only portion that moves. As for adjustment of the stop, I followed Dillon's instruction in the manual, but it's kinda trial and error. Sent from my Verizon phone using Tapatalk

Just picked up a Square Deal B that I am dedicating to loading calibers requiring small pistol primers. Anyone have an extra conversion laying around for .38 special or .32 S&WL/H&R Mag?

^^^^^^^^^ This!

If the STI warranty center will squeeze/peen the rails, then I wouldn't hesitate letting them do it. Especially if it's at no charge. I had an old school gunsmith do that to my Colt Gold Cup 30 years ago and tens of thousands of rounds later, it's still tight!

Harley, I had a similar problem when I restarted my 550 after a 9 year hiatus. However, mine only showed up with the large primer bar in place. Turned out to be a combo problem. Discovered the primer seating cup had a burr that prevented it from operating smoothly. Also the primer seating punch was not seated fully in the primer slide bar. Finally, I had to adjust the primer feeding stop to make everything work properly.

As sroe3 mentioned, sorting cases by brand may help. That said, my newly-acquired (previously owned) SDB is just as consistent as my 550B. Typically less than .003" variation, even with mixed headstamps.

Well, after reloading for 40+ years on a single stage, and the last 20+ on a 550B, I can say that the progressive does speed things up. The problem, however, is in the extra steps needed to prep military-style (crimped primer cases), plus the length (trim) issue. In something like a Dillon 1050 with the Dillon trimmer, I imagine you could truly get progressive, as the 1050 swages the primer pocket during the loading cycle, plus you could trim during the loading cycle (someone correct me if I'm wrong), That said, and being the cheapskate that I am, I process the brass in batches first before ever attempting to load it. It's sized on my Rockchucker, then trimmed & primer pockets swaged or reamed. Back into the tumbler to remove lube & the cases are ready to load. Like others here, I use a Universal decap die in my first station to ensure the flash hole is clear. One thing to remember, however, is that if you can keep up with your fired brass, you never have to swage those primer pockest again, and I don't typically have to trim again for 3-4 loadings, so the loading process goes pretty fast.

Just joined the forum after lurking for several years. Been a shooter/reloader for the past 40+ years. Love revolvers and autoloaders. Not involved in any competitive shooting, but looking forward to learning about shooting techniques & sharing info on reloading. Winston

I've been a reloader/shooter for the past 45 years. Currently live in the Atlanta area. Been lurking in the forums for a couple of years. Decided to join in the conversation!