Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cking

  • Rank
    Beyond it All

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    gainesville Florida
  • Real Name
    Roy King

Recent Profile Visitors

440 profile views
  1. You running it too light brass going forward means the bolt is striking the empty when coming forward, and it is supposed to be slower than a blow back, put H2 buffer in it
  2. Is this running glock mags? My ammo runs 1.15, and it will rip them just fine when stuffed with 33. Standard spring and carbine buffer, the hydraulic blietz buffer works too. Try single round and see if it locks back, if not cut coils till it does.
  3. Why did use such thick wall tubing? Was it to get the 0.584 ID? Did you run the tube all the way to the barrel extension? pics?
  4. What barrel length was that?
  5. Just bought a guard and barrel is too heavy 3/4" to the muzzle. So how thin/small can I cut it without problems? Don't want shorten it
  6. EoTech 552 ??

    Do any of these sites have same technology of the EOTECH? All others I've looked at required you to look through the center axis. Only EOTECH allows terrible head position. Cover 2/3 of the front glass and see if you still the reticle center.
  7. The bolt lugs will wear in so I wouldn't start cutting coils off till broken in. Then I'll buy a flat wire spring and cut till my bolt lock starts to work. Also running a hyd buffer
  8. Best PCC trigger?

    Many drop in triggers have hammers that are too short and don't come to rest on the bolt above the firing pin. On the NFA bolt there is very little material below the firing pin and the hammers will tear this area up. Check the length of your drop in next to a standard trigger. Rock Rivers and Geissle are too short. Resting on the firing pin contributes to short firing pin life. The Jard are long but I don't know if all the adjustment screws will stay in place. Using on now. Will see.
  9. PCC Reoil / Bounce

    First observation, most carbine length buffers suck. The worst are the solid ones. Then make the gun feel lousy and make gun bounce worse. Most 9mm bolts are fairly heavy dictated by the nature of blow back. But the space available makes them still too light in AR. So everybody puts a heavy buffer in. Problem also that carbine buffer doesn't leave enough room for the buffer to work like the ones in a rifle. A Rifle buffer is made of light metal, with heavy weights inside that have lots of room to move. Movement is the key what I call decoupling of reciprocating weight. When a bolt is closing the weights help with bolt bounce, but they do something else more important. In a 9mm the bolt doesn’t have the floating rotating bolt carrier design to prolong an eat up energy rotating/locking the bolt. It is just two pieces of metal slamming into each other, thus the forward down pitch of 9mm’s which cause dot bounce. Solid buffers make this worse. More weight stopping quickly/abruptly. So back to the rifle buffer, as the bolt is closing driven by the recoil spring when it finally comes to a stop. The amount of weight that stops is not the total weight of the buffer, bolt/carrier, and spring. The weights inside the buffer are still moving forward and thus do not contribute to momentum that is converted into felt energy. Eventually they will finally stop, and contribute to the total energy but the time delay greatly reduces the felt impact. So they stop bounce by reducing the effective weight and then delivering delayed impacts to counter the bounce. Upon firing the weights are forward and contribute to the total mass of the inertia needed to be overcome to cause bolt rearward movement. So the 9mm carbine needs the same things in spades. So with help of my friends we have developed a 9mm buffer that maximizes the decoupling of reciprocating weight to mostly eliminate closing bolt bounce. Reduce bolt velocity by coupling the weight on bolt open and having total weight of 7.5 oz, decoupled weight of 6.2 OZ and length of 4.125” to reduce bolt travel and further limit bolt speed. Still recommend slightly heavier bolt spring. The combination drops the empty’s cases about eight feet out for both heavy and light loads. First iteration I used hard nylon for rear bumper, too hard, so some soft polyurethane ones are on the way. So lets hear the comments about my bolt buffer operation
  10. Best 9mm barrel???

    Problem isn't a short chamber it is a short freebore/lead, drop a round in the barrel it should stop on case and spin freely if not, you bullet is hitting the rifling, Use a Clymer 9mm reamer it has a long lead freebore, careful to use a reamer stop you don't want to cut the chamber deeper.
  11. Throat Ream 9mm PCC?

    Ran into the same problem with the NFA barrels, don't know who makes them, Faxon said they didn't. Virtually no freebore/lead in the chamber cut. The Clymer finish reamer has nice long lead/freebore. Talked to both manufactures and then seemed totally unaware. When I asked for the specs of their reamer, they just said we use a production PTG pacific tool Gage. PTG show no specs on their web page. I agree want to use same bullets and overall length as loaded in the pistol
  12. Shorten LOP 11-87

    I wanted to put a short stock on my 11-87. I bought a short plastic one that said it would work for 870 1100 and 1187. Wrong on my 11-87 the recoil tube stuck out about inch, so return that. Then I found a article that said 870 butt stocks new and old could be made to fit on a 11-87. Old models used a short bolt new models long bolt. So decide to try shortening a 870 wood stock. They were going for pretty high prices on Ebay around $50-65 used. Finally I found one that had peeling varnish, few dings, and they were not sure what it fit. From the pics I could tell it was very old 870 with plastic butt plate. Stripped then cut it about 1/8" longer than the recoil tube. Bought a new style hold down nut and washer from Brownells that let me get it about 3/8" shorter. You need to make a filler plug. one inch diameter, 5/8" hole and about 2.25 long, then the hold down nut will tighten right up. I drilled a hole in a piece of 2X4 then centered up on the hole and cut it 1 inch square and sanded off the corners. Used the recoil pad off the old plastic stock, black spray paint. Ended up 1.5 inches shorter and a better angle on the buttpad, total about $36.00. Comes up much quicker.
  13. Don't forget the recoil spring, you need a reverse plug and need to cut the slide to fit it.
  14. Why a ported barrel vs comp?

    My experiment was with 9mm, I started with a 6 inch barrel, put three ports into it about 1/2 inch from end of barrel. By the time I got the ports large enough to work, the accuracy was lost, cut the barrel and installed a comp, works great and had to lower the recoil spring by 2 pounds. So forget ports