smokemup

She also supports 2A, but I didn't enter that one...

For those that don't use Facebook, here's the photo entered. 10 months old

. It's Christmas, and Molly the Beagle Clause is looking for Facebook likes to try and win a contest. So...if you have time, please help out. MOLLY SAYS PLEASE LIKE ME

What you talking about, Willis?

I had CCR do one for me several years ago. Nice plating job! Pretty pricey unless you catch a sale, and then it takes about 3-4 months to get back. A friend had one done by Robar and it was pretty awesome, too. I'll probably bite the bullet and have CCR do the Stock II.

I'd like to pretty up my Stock II frame and slide. It's developed minor scuffs and marks over the years. Anyone have experience or techniques to do this? I also thought about sending it off for a coating, such as Nickel/Boron Nitride plating. Plating would probably be more resistant to scratches, but think I'd prefer the original look. Thoughts?

I use the Henning cone fit guide rods in my Tanfos. Much better surface area contact = way less wear.

If it's "food grade" it's ok, but I wouldn't replace your peanut butter with it. I use this kit. http://lubrikit.com/

I recently picked up a 10mm Comp-P (polymer). Good quality piece with a nice finish. I think the lighter/shorter slide of the compacts makes for a few issues with the recoil spring. I'm still working out a few issues with mine, but haven't been able to get back to the range to work it out yet. I think I'm going to be stuck selecting a specific brand/spec of ammo, matched to a specific spring weight, as I don't believe the compacts are very forgiving. I hope I'm wrong, but that's what it looks like at this point. The compact 10mm is a terrific size for me. I also have a Stock II and have had other 10mm full size Tanfos. My Stock II seems to run anything without issue. Keep us posted.

I'm just glad to know that I'm not the only one! I had my wife tap the roll pin one of those times while I was holding everything in place. We're still married, but barely.

The plastic guns have forward and rear rail blocks. The blocks lift out by removing a frame pin, which is pretty convenient. The rear block holds the hammer and compressed hammer spring, which are held in place by a large roll pin. The trick is getting the hammer, that's under spring tension, back in place while driving in the roll pin. You pretty much need a third hand! You have to drive the pin in just enough so it touches the hammer body as you push it in place since it's easier to find the hole this way. Then, holding the hammer and compressed spring in place with one hand (tricky), and hoping the floating interrupter won't fall out (yet again), hammer in the roll pin and hope you catch the hole enough to let go. And this exactly why bourbon was invented!! I forgot to mention that I also reduced the height of the hammer hooks a tad.

For whatever reason, I cannot just buy a perfectly good gun and leave the trigger alone! I'm not sure if it's a fetish or some other elevated condition that's had no cure. But I like it!! So this time it's my EAA Witness Comp-P in 10MM, which is 12 shots of OMG! The only modification for this job was a Patriot Defense "Bolo" disconnector (interruptor), which needed a good bit of fitting for a solid reset and for the double action to function (be careful when messing with the disco 'wing'). Removing the disconnector on the polymer guns is no treat as compared to the Elite series Tanfo guns. I think I pulled the hammer out at least 6 or 7 times! UGH. The result is a very nice trigger pull, with a SA break at 4lbs. with no spring changes. Not bad. I think I'll leave well enough alone on this one. Maybe, right. LOL.... So here's the video. Please chime in.

2 lbs 10.8 ounces with empty magazine. 42.8 oz total Specs: Stock II 10mm Coned bull barrel Titan Hammer Extreme sear Extreme Trigger bar Extreme Trigger 16# Wolff recoil spring Henning guide rod Henning recoil buffer

On my SII 10mm I run a 16# recoil spring with the Henning guide rod and the brass recoil buffer plate. I've tried the entire gambit of weights for the various loads, and 16# seems to be the most reliable for me. True, some guys are running 20-22# springs, but I found it to be a bad choice with such a wide range on load specs and weights for the 10mm. I run Armscor all the way to Underwood at various grains. It can be a challenge and really forces you to make a decision on what to run. The 16# seems to be the most versatile for mine. Just be sure to add the available anti-frame damaging components.

No, just some fancy looking shotguns and big game safari rifles. From here on out I demand fancy scroll work on all my guns... Say, didn't we hook up on the Tanfoglio forum when it was still in existence? I recall your strong interest in the Elite series pistols such as the Stock I and II.