G29SF

After a ton of work and research, I found my primer problem to be the white tab being too tight against the case. The case needs wiggle room to align with the inbound primer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A full-featured 650 with separate swager is only a few hundred dollars less than a 1050. The 1050 comes standard with case feeder and setup with a caliber - including dies. Honestly, the money isn't that far apart. Where the money starts to add up is if you buy dedicated tool heads for all your calibers. If you simply use the same tool head, it isn't so bad. Caliber conversion kits are more expensive too, but there is a lot of crossover. Depending on the calibers, you can probably just buy certain pieces to save money. For me, the 1050 is a pleasure to operate and is very time efficient once setup. I am glad I got the 1050. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

" It's just plain price increases because of demand. " LOL... That is how capitalism works. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

How will they know if I shot factory or hand loads? Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

My guess is you will be scrutinized if you own reloading equipment. I shoot factory ammo (Underwood) that has Starline head stamps. I have reloads that have factory (Win, Hornady, Speer, etc.) head stamps. At any given time, I don't know what is in my mags. It just isn't something I am going to worry about. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

I should add, for 180gr bullets, your listed range of grains of powder you are safe. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

I load 180gr Hornady JFP, with 9.5gr of Longshot. Never an issue. These are my "good" practice loads. I also load 200gr Hornady XTPs with the same 9.5gr of Longshot. (I use the same powder drop, without adjustment, for both loads.) The 200gr XTPs are my "awesome" loads. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Hopefully poster "Dillon" will chime in. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Make sure there are no extractor nicks on the rim of your cases. There are alot of guns that will nick them. If there are nicks, you can quickly file the nicks smooth. I'll bet that they will guage correctly. I agree with the above post. If most of your rounds drop into the EGW .223 gage -- but some don't -- it is a case issue because the gage is not changing from round to round. I drop every round I load into a case gage (I have case gages for all of my calibers). The only time I have had issues is where lead built-up around the case mouth (on pistol rounds) or when an extractor mark protuded a little. Both situation are easily fixed and probably would not have resulted in any problem had I just boxed them up. By the way... when available, I prefer Dillon case gages. They seem most accurate to me. I bought a Wilson gage once for 357 SIG... and hate it. Not only does it not do what I thought it should do, I think it is incorrect on what it IS supposed to do. I have dropped factory rounds in that gage and things are off. I simply use my 357 SIG barrel for a gage on those rounds. (Easy to do with a pistol barrel.)

I have a newer one. (About 18 months old.) It works great. Thus far, I have only used CCI primers... and see no reason to change. I will probably buy a second... and dedicate them to primer size. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Had I not found this thread, I would have done the same thing. Sounds like the seat and crimp dies for the 1050 are shorter. Probably took some off the bottom of the dies. My guess is the modified "1050" dies would work on other presses also. Not sure why the two different versions. I can't speak for Dillon, but I imagine they would exchange them for you.

180gr at 170 pf is what, 950 fps? I didn't realize you could make a 10mm go that slow? When I think 10mm, I think 250 pf range...

On the SS-600 I can see using your feel. You just don't push the handle past a certain resistance. Your feel essentially adjusts for each and every case! On the 1050 however, the swage rod and backup need to be set correctly... because you have to bottom the handle on every pull. On the SS-600 is ONLY swaging. On the 1050, you are ALSO doing sizing, priming, dumping powder, seating and crimping. If you don't pull the handle down all of the way, those other tasks are not going to take place correctly. I realize everyone knows this already... I was just stating the obvious. Those that do not have the 1050 may not realize the subtle difference. The GOOD news is, once I loaded my 5k piece box of 5.56, I never had to swage them again! Once the "big sort" is done, sorting is only necessary as new brass in introduced.

I used to swage mixed brass on my 1050... then I realized that some came out "not swaged enough", some caused the machine to bind due to "over swaging" (which caused the toolhead to not come down all of the way, which causes other issues as you can imagine) and of course some came out "just right". Then I started to separate the brass and adjust the swaging to each brass manufacturer. All my problems went away... especially primer seating.

I use Dillon lube and do not tumble post-loading. The rounds go straight from the bin to the case gage to the box.

I used to load .223 on my 1050 without sorting. Every now and then I would have an issue with priming. At first I refused to sort because I thought "that fine machine should just do it"... then I REALLY thought about what was taking place. I sort all my .223 brass now (it isn't that hard and there isn't THAT many different ones). Priming issues are far and few between now. Sorting the brass and adjusting the swage rod for each brand can be a pain if you don't have much brass. Once I got around 5k pieces of brass, I don't have to adjust very often. I think I have limited my batch to like 4 different manufacturers.

I load several different calibers on my 1050, however 357 SIG and .223 are what I load the most. All of my equipment is Dillon (press, dies, etc.). Ever since I started loading on my 1050 (about two years ago), I have used Dillon's case lube exclusively. I'm not saying other lubes don't work, I'm just saying it is all I have used (since I got my 1050 -- I have loaded for years on other machines earlier in my life). I have probably loaded 12k rounds of .223 and about 5k rounds of 357 SIG. Not one issue -- no stuck cases, no pulled dies, etc. I have even stopped loading with a half-full case-feed hopper... to return a week later and resume loading... WITHOUT re-lubing the cases in the hopper. No issues. I can't say if Dillon's case lube is the reason I have had such success at loading... all I know is it is all I have used and have had zero issues.

Thanks for the info.

My handle does not stay in the complete top/upright position. It drops just a little bit. Not a problem though. Nothing I am worried about. My 1050 is over a year old and has about 10k rounds through it. Works great.

Glad I ran across this thread. I had no idea there were two different sets of dies. Is there a way to purchase just the "modified" dies? I run a 1050 and already load .308. There is a lot of overlap in caliber conversion parts for these two, is there not?

Does this imply that the Dillon 30-06 dies are the modified versions ready for use in a 1050?

Not with Dillon's trim dies. The shorter cases require a longer trim motor shaft. Don't know if there are others out there. Like you, I as well have the RT1200 for the longer cases (shorter shaft motor)... and am probably going to have to bite the bullet and buy the other RT1200.

I'm curious to know if this is the "long" version or the "short" version. Meaning, Dillon currently has two RT1200 motors. The "short" version is for taller cases and trim dies. The "longer" one is for AK and 6.8 trim dies. I don't know if they still make them, but I saw in the past that CH4D makes two different 300 AAC trim dies for the RT1200 trimmers: one for the "short" motor and one for the "long" motor. The one for the "short" motor requires the toolhead milling. The one for the "long" motor works without any toolhead milling (the one I will get) but has some reported issues with the filings not getting sucked out the port like it should. I'm not sure (yet) if this new RT1500 is a "long" or "short" version motor. I don't want to mill my toolhead so I may or may not buy this. It appears this new RT1200 motor is designed to trim the 1/2" of case. Since I have no problem with cutting my cases first (with the various techniques discussed in other threads) and then using the trimmer as designed (not trimming too much), this new motor does not excite me much. What is exciting is the idea of Dillon making a 300 AAC trim die. The only problem is, I don't (yet) know if this new trim die will be a "long" or "short" version. Definitely taking a wait-and-see approach.

Another vote for not enought swage. As said above though, if you are not separating your brass, you will run into not-enough-swage and too-much-swage. Keep in mind... you can go from "just right swage" to "screwing up the machine" in short order. Swaging adjustment is important. Remember not to use "gorillia force" on the press handle if something feels like it has bottomed-out early. If the handle stops early, don't force it.

My point above was... If a 40 OAL round in a 10mm barrel swallows the round when dropping the slide on it (and the extractor does not hop over the rim), the 40 case mouth is not reaching the end of the chamber (as expected).... -- and -- If a 40 round with 10mm OAL in a 10mm barrel DOES allow you to drop the slide on it and the extractor DOES hop over the rim, the only thing allowing this is the bullet bottoming out. This is NOT a desireable thing.