Jshuberg

Hey all, I run Slide Glide in my pistols and its absolutely fantastic. I also have a full-auto Shrike, and have been using Extreme Weapons Grease on the BCG and in the feed cam lever and pawls in the top cover. The problem is that the EWG gets sprayed across everything like a sprinkler, gets gunked up really quickly, and turns into a baked on sticky mess. I need to find something better, and was wondering if Slide Glide might do the trick? I like the way that Slide Glide stays put, but I can't find anything on the max temperature ratings for it. Will it hold up to the high temps of a machinegun? It's a short stroke piston system, but I do run a suppressor, so there is dirty high temperature gasses entering the receiver. I'd be running it on the cam mechanism in the top cover, the BCG and a light coating on the buffer spring. Before trying it I'd like to know what temps its rated to, and whether it's expected to turn to liquid and go bye-bye or not.

Dupe, sorry. I don't see a way to delete the post...

Grip strength is important, but it's not the cure-all that many people believe it is. Once you have enough grip strength applied to control the weapon, and to bring it back from recoil to exactly where it started, any additional grip strength isn't improving your technique, it's masking errors in technique. If you can manage to develop enough grip strength that masking errors works for you all the time, then by all means use it. However many people, shooters with small hands, female shooters, etc. will never be able to develop the hand strength to fully mask their errors. So pointing those people to "increase grip strength" as a solution isn't going to necessarily fully solve their problems. I only use around 40-50lbs of force in my grip, as measured by a Camry electronic hand dynamometer. Comparatively, many top shooters who utilize the "grip the hell out of the gun with your support hand" technique report using between 100-140lbs of force when gripping the gun!! Even so, I can consistently run a bill drill and put all shots in the A at around .13-.15 second splits. So it's not all about grip strength, it's just as much if not more about technique. Any grip strength training should also be accompanied by other exercises that improve grip, trigger control and follow through that don't rely entirely on raw grip strength to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Becoming visually ambidextrous is actually pretty easy. As far as there being a second set of sights when shooting both eyes open, just ignore the other one. After awhile your mind will drop it from your stream of consciousness. Don't do anything with tape or markers or anything. If it's hard for you, turn your head slightly, but doing this is a temporary trick to get your mind used to developing a proper sight picture. You should straighten yourself out and shoot correctly as soon as possible. 95% of shooting is in your head. That's where you need to solve the problem, not with equipment tricks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isolating your trigger finger becomes more difficult the faster you shoot. If you start getting down somewhere around the .12s there will almost certainly be at least some sympathetic muscle movement in the hand. While the primary goal is to minimize it to the least amount of undesired motion possible, in order to shoot accurately at speed you also need to deal with the fact that some amount of undesired motion is likely at speed. Some people advocate a very strong grip, which effectively masks sympathetic muscle motion. This works well for some people, but not everyone. You need a lot of hand strength and forearm strength, which some people don't have, and its effectiveness at masking the error varies from person to person. Another technique is to construct a grip that is much less sensitive to sympathetic motion. Inoculating your grip from the negative effects of sympathetic muscle motion. During dry fire hold your gun with your normal grip strength. Align your sights, and then close your eyes, and relax your grip to the least strength you would be comfortable shooting with. Then open your eyes, and observe your sights. If they've moved, realign them and close your eyes again, and increase your grip strength to your maximum. Open your eyes and observe your sights. Keep doing this exercise across a wide range of grip strength. If your sights move when applying different grip strengths, then your grip is not symmetrical, and sympathetic motions will throw your shot. Work on changing your grip, where you apply pressure, where your hands are located, how they transfer pressure to the pistol. Keep experimenting until you can construct a grip on the weapon where the sights don't move at all through a range of various grip strengths. Again, the primary goal is to minimize unwanted motions and errors to the smallest amount possible, but that can only get you around 95% of the way there. To capture the last few percent of your speed/accuracy potential, you also need a grip that either masks, or in inoculates you from accuracy loss due to sympathetic muscle motion. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Learn how to switch which eye the brain is favoring on demand. You do not have a dominant eye the same way you have a dominant hand. Which eye your mind is favoring is entirely in your head, and is fairly easy to control. Everything else people suggest is simply compensation for not having learned to control this fairly simple mechanism. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not an optometrist, but heres a good article that goes into this a bit: http://chrissajnog.com/vision-and-shooting-and-aging-part-1/ I'm sure it's different from person to person and prescription to prescription, but he indicated that "in most cases" increasing the prescription for the dominant eye of +0.75 will result in a clear focussed front sight with the dominant eye, while your non-dominant eye is focussed at 20 feet (optical infinity). This is a "shooters" variation of a monovision prescription, where both eyes are corrected to accommodate (focus) at different distances. This can be really weird at first, but eventually your mind will work it out, to the point that you can throw on your "shooting glasses" and within a couple seconds you mind adjusts, and you can see just fine without distortions. What's cool about this (once your mind gets used to it) is that both the target and front site can be in focus, or very close to focus, resulting in an improved sight picture over what a person with 20/20 vision can see. The one thing I've found with this though is that when shooting out past 15-20 yards or so, where you want to see both your site and the target in reasonable focus, your front sight can't be touching your point of aim. It forces you to "aim small" and to also favor a slight 6:00 hold, where POI is slightly higher than the front slight blade. I think the reason is that it's just too difficult for the mind to stitch 2 images together, that are out of focus relative to each other, into a single "everything in focus" perceived image when the objects being stitched (front sight and target, each with a different eye, and at different focal distances) visually overlap one another. There needs to be at least a small amount of separation between your point of aim on the target and top of the front sight for the "illusion" of both target and front sight being in focus to happen. I started putting together a video awhile back, of ideally what a shooter should perceive visually when shooting both eyes open. What a proper binocular sight picture is, with accommodation decoupled from convergence, monovision, shifting dominance, etc. The idea is that a lot of these concepts are difficult to describe or understand with words, and something visual could really help with this. I dropped it for awhile, but might pick the project back up again. One of the big problems is that when the images from our left and right eyes are stitched together in our mind, the perceived image doesn't have to follow any laws of physics or make much sense. We can approximate our minds perception of two images by overlapping them on top of each other, but it's never going to look quite right. Here's a quick example. This video snip attempts to convey what the shooter perceives when shifting his focus back and forth between the front sight and the target. Note that the gun appears to move out of the center of vision. Well, it doesn't actually move just by adjusting our eyes, it actually in the same place in the center of our vision. The same is true of the target. It doesn't move out of our center of vision either, which is difficult because when flattened to a 2D movie, what we end up with is not what we perceive. We can try approximate it though, which is what this little test clip is doing. It's not going to look quite right, but after watching it a few times most people will pick up on what it's trying to convey. If I ever get motivated again, I might get around to finishing this project.

I've hesitated to respond to this remark because it's so difficult to address. Things happen really fast when firing quickly; and, at least for me, it's difficult to sort everything out in order to be able to grasp it with my conscious mind; and, I’m of the opinion that for many shooters, it's also exceedingly difficult for them to understand, 'Why' or, 'How' they shoot so well without being able to rationalize their body's own physiological functions. (In other words, many people shoot well; but are unable to explain either why, or how they manage to do it - They simply do it without a conscious explanation for either themselves, or others.) Personally, I shot well for many years without truly understanding how I was able to do it. This wasn't a problem for me until I injured myself, and had to stop shooting for awhile - only to discover that my previous (mostly) instinctive shooting skill just seemed to evaporate! The lesson I learned is that a, 'naturally depreciating skill set' like pistol or rifle shooting is exceedingly difficult to maintain over time UNLESS the rudiments and proprioceptive mechanics of that elusive skill set are able to be consciously explained and, thereby, understood. Nowadays when I go, 'off' I'll stop and mentally review the do's and don'ts of what I've learned about pistol shooting. When I was a young shooter I shot, more or less, by instinct. Today, though, I tend to fire by a very deliberate method of conscious recall. This recall occurs on BOTH a mental and physical level; and it works a whole lot better for me than merely firing by rote. Because I'm able to consciously recall and adequately understand what I need to do in order to (repetitively) hit the target, it's no longer necessary for me to have to reach into, 'the netherworld at the back of my mind’, or to fire thousands of rounds in order to regain a skill set that I've been unpracticed at for awhile. Instead, I’m able to rely upon actually understanding the mechanics of pistol shooting; and I can consciously recall whatever I need to know in order to keep on hitting the target. In the above cited instance I think that proprioceptive trigger control ('driving the gun') operates, or should operate, off the visual cues supplied to the shooter's brain by his apparent front sight picture. As I said, everything's happens very fast; and, yet, I do believe that there's an, ‘essentially mindless’ preconditioned reflex that can cause a shooter to drop repetitive shots as the distance to the target increases, and/or the front sight picture becomes narrower and narrower. As best as I'm able to determine: I think the brain actively interprets the decreasing front sight picture and adjusts the proprioceptive mind/body reflexes accordingly. All of which indicates to me that if a shooter is dropping his shots as distance increases, then, he's firing mainly by rote (by instinct) without the advantage of being able to actively process his visual inputs by using alert conscious recall. Too abstract for ya? OK! If you can't adequately explain something to yourself then you certainly aren't going to be able to explain it to anyone else, either. When I'm regularly practiced (not now) I don't drop shots. No matter the distance I put everything into nice tight 8 inch circles. Personally I attribute this to being able to almost instantly read and, then, immediately respond to my own visual front sight pictures. It is at this point that deliberate conscious recall, and firing by instinct (or rote) come together, and blend into one. Because there is no deliberate thought involved in intentional proprioceptive reflex, front sight dwell time reduces itself to almost zero. (I wish!) However, when the front sight picture changes so does my trigger stroking technique; and if that isn't happening then, as far as I'm concerned, the problem becomes a matter of me not truly understanding what I’m trying to do. Rather than being a, ‘thought driven shooter’ who understands, ‘What’ he’s about, I’ve allowed myself to become an, ‘instinct driven shooter’ who is merely firing by rote, and operating on nothing more than preconditioned physical reflex. (I’m saying that mind should never be surrender to emotion - NOT if you want to be consistent, and continue to perform well. Once again, skillful shooting performance is a lot like playing a musical instrument and being able to, ‘keep the beat’ and carry a tune.) In my opinion, any such muddled pistol shooter will continue to drop his shots until that moment when he consciously realizes and, then, grasps onto whatever he's doing wrong; but, more than just timing or simply, ‘driving the gun’ are involved. There’s another, closely related, pistol shooting anomaly that I’ve also noticed: A few weeks ago I got tapped on the shoulder by another senior instructor who said to me, ‘Don’t take this the wrong way.’ ‘You shoot well; but I’ve noticed that you shoot better when you fire faster; and I’m sure of it, too.’ He was right; and, yes, I was already aware of the problem. I think I know, ‘Why’ too. It was my sight picture! I was having trouble holding onto and maintaining it between slowly fired shots. Whenever I fired more slowly I, ‘lost the visual rhythm’ and reduced my physical control over the, ‘rock and roll’ of the pistol. As the rate-of-fire slowed down I had to work harder and harder in order to recapture the previous front sight picture. All I can say, right now, is that timing and rhythm are also involved in the problem with dropping quickly fired repetitive shots. It’s. kind ‘a, like playing a musical instrument: As the beat changes the shooter has to stay in tune; and everything a competent pistolero does while firing a gun is closely related to, and centered upon keeping his rhythm - A feat which is impossible to accomplish without: A proper grip on the pistol, a skillful trigger stroke (or, ‘tap’), and a very carefully watched front sight picture. This is a very good post!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DonovanM is right. If you train a lot, and the act of shooting and using your sights is instinctive, there is a good chance that you are actually seeing your front sight, but that because the target was so close your mind decided the sight picture wasn't important enough to remember it. Not remembering seeing your sights, or having your subconscious mind observe your sights without being consciously aware of it is perfectly fine. If you're curious if this is what's happening, either remove your front sight temporarily, or obscure both sights with a big piece of electrical tape that hides them from view. If you shoot better when the sights are visible, you're most likely seeing them and using them without being consciously aware of it. If you shoot the same, you might just be point shooting. If you are using your front sights subconsciously without remembering it, that's actually a very good thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't actually "see faster", what you are trying to accomplish is your mind not throwing away rapid transitions in order to de-clutter your stream of consciousness. The effect is known as chronostasis. It's an optimization of our conscious perception of the world around us. For example, if you move your eyes rapidly from in place to another, you typically don't remember seeing a moving blur during the time it took for your eyes to move. It's a very interesting filter the mind inserts into our stream of consciousness to eliminate unnecessary clutter and distractions. Unfortunately, if you want to track your front sight through recoil, the chronostasis effect gets in the way. The result is that you don't "see" the sight move in recoil and then return back to where it came from. What the shooter perceives is that the sight just simply jumps from its starting location to its ending location after the shot, and it takes roughly your raw reaction time for your mind to react to it. You'll also find, especially when shooting fast, that you are not able to call your shots very accurately. The reason is that the mind backfills the time the sight was in motion with a snapshot of its ending location. It's very easy for the mind to confuse where the sight actually was at the moment the shot broke due to this artificial memory. What you're experiencing is something similar to the "stopped clock" temporal illusion from which the term chronostasis was derived. With enough careful observation over enough time most people are able to train their mind to the fact that the front sight is important, and that's it's motion during recoil shouldn't be discarded. However, I believe that there are some training exercises that can help with this, both dry fire and live fire. During dry fire, draw your gun and simulate firing it in slow motion. Move the muzzle up slowly, and then back down slowly back to where it came from, properly aligned in the rear notch. Exaggerate the muzzle flip, even move your hand up and down while you're doing this. What you need to do is watch the front sight as it moves in this slow motion, in exaggerated recoil. Move your eyes up and down (not your head) as you do this. Do this around 10 times, then slowly add speed, until you are simulating the recoil of 4-5 shots per second without mentally losing track of the front sight. What this is doing is letting your subconscious mind know that the motion of the sight is important. The subconscious doesn't know what the conscious mind is thinking, and learns through observation. By performing a dry fire exercise that exaggerates that motion of the front sight, where your eyes move to keep it constantly in your center of vision, and your mind is tightly latched onto it, your subconscious will figure this out much faster than it otherwise would have. During live fire, loosen up the "spring" that your hands make on the gun, and allow around 1.5" of muzzle flip. Your target can often be a mental distraction, so it's best to not use a target when first doing this. It's also useful to "zoom out" your mind a bit from the front sight, to the space your gun and hands occupy. A "soft" focus on the front sight can also help. One thing that you do *not* want to do is to follow the sight with your mind. Just passively observe the sight. Fire a round, and simply observe the sight. Don't lock onto it with your mind, let it go and just let it do what it does. If you didn't see its path through recoil, that's ok as I t might take awhile, but keep working on it. The reason you loosen up your grip is to increase the motion of the sight - the bigger the motion, the less likely the mind will optimize away its motion. Trying to mentally track the front sight is the worst thing you can do. Just fire the round, and then see if you can remember seeing it's motion afterward. The conscious mind gets in the way, so listening to music or thinking about something else can also help your subconscious let the sight movement through. Once you get to the point where you are seeing the sight lift, pause, and slide back into the rear, tighten up your grip again and bring the muzzle flip back down to normal. Don't be surprised if you lose it again, if you do, loosen up your grip again slightly until you can see it again. For some people, tracking the sight is easy, for others this is really hard. For those people who have a real hard time, or for those who wish to gain this skill as quickly as possible, the about should help. It's all about training the subconscious to do something outside its natural instinct and programming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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As long as you are only applying downward force after the shot, I don't see the problem. The stronger you grip, the less you will have to "wrangle" the gun back on target though. Switching between my tanfo and glock, I have to "wrangle" the glock to keep similar splits. You should not have to move any muscles, apply any pressure, or do any wrangling in order to get the sight back on target. Your grip should be a spring that allows the muzzle to lift slightly in recoil, but then returns the gun back to the exact same spot it came from before the shot. Recoil control is a constant, passive effort throughout the firing cycle. If any part of your body moves, strengthens or braces during the firing cycle, other than the movement of your finger on the trigger, your doing it wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As long as you are only applying downward force after the shot, I don't see the problem. The stronger you grip, the less you will have to "wrangle" the gun back on target though. Switching between my tanfo and glock, I have to "wrangle" the glock to keep similar splits. You should not have to move any muscles, apply any pressure, or do any wrangling in order to get the sight back on target. Your grip should be a spring that allows the muzzle to lift slightly in recoil, but then returns the gun back to the exact same spot it came from before the shot. Recoil control is a constant, passive effort throughout the firing cycle. If any part of your body moves, strengthens or braces during the firing cycle, other than the movement of your finger on the trigger, your doing it wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. Fighting the gun, fighting the recoil takes physical effort that isn't necessary. It's a waste of energy. Your energy and mental focus is best used to control the guns return from recoil, rather than fighting it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are a couple of different techniques that can be used for shooting well at further distances. There isn't one "right" way, but here is something that works well for a lot of people, myself included. Using this technique I can consistently hold 2" 5 round groups at 25 yards, and an occasional sub inch group when I'm really shooting well. When aiming there are two principles in play - sight picture and sight alignment. Sight alignment refers keeping the front and rear sights perfectly aligned relative to each other. Sight picture refers to the relationship of the sights (specifically the front sight) in relation to the target. However, unless you are using a rest you will not be able to hold a perfect sight alignment and a perfect sight picture. You will tend to move around slightly, and this motion is called arc of movement. Ideally you want to minimize arc of movement to the smallest amount possible when aiming and beginning your trigger squeeze, but without a rest there will always be some motion. With training, most people can manage to eliminate almost all motion from either the front sight relative to the target (sight picture), or the motion between the front and rear sights (sight alignment). However, most people are incapable of eliminating all arc of motion, so a person must learn how to favor a perfect sight alignment, and when to favor a perfect sight picture. Since we were very young, we have learned to manipulate objects around us. In doing so we have learned to favor the location of an object over the orientation of an object. When setting an object down on a shelf you place it there first, and then turn it so it faces forward. It's instinctual. The opposite feels much more forced, to rotate and orient the object perfectly before setting it down. Our location instinct assists with sight picture, so shooters tend to favor sight picture over sight alignment. This works well out to around 15-20 yards or so, but as you get further away the physics and geometry require that alignment be favored over picture. When shooting up close, you want to hold the front sight blade over the target, and a little variation in alignment due to arc of movement is fine. However, when shooting at greater distances, you want to hold the front sight as perfectly aligned in the rear as possible, and allow the front sight to float around the target. You do *not* want to hold the front sight tightly to the target at greater distances - doing so will lead to error being introduced into your alignment, which is the opposite of what you want. This can be difficult to do, since our location instinct for objects will want to hold the front sight tight to the target, but there is a trick that can help with this. Convince yourself that it's not you that is moving, but the target. Hold your front and rear sights together in a tight alignment, and imagine that the target is dancing around behind your front sight. When you convince yourself that the target is what is moving, you can more easily "let go" of trying to hold tight to the target, and allow yourself to put all of your attention on the relationship between the front and rear sights. The idea is that even if your gun is moving around an inch or so in space, as long as you maintain a perfect alignment, your shots will place all within an inch of each other - provided you have a proper trigger squeeze, etc. It can take time to learn to do this where it doesn't feel forced. The other thing that's important is that while you see your front sight dancing around your target in front of you, that you do *not* follow the front sight with your eyes. Your eyes should be fixed directly on the target, and you should see your sights floating around the center of the target. Don't confuse this with focusing on the target, your eyes should still be focused tightly on the front sight, but your eyes shouldn't follow the sight, they should be locked directly on the target and not move. Again, this can be tricky to do, but with practice you'll have an "aha" moment, and it should be pretty easy after that. Trigger squeeze is a whole other subject, but to start out squeeze the trigger slowly. Extremely slowly. If it takes 5 or more seconds for the gun to fire after you begin your trigger squeeze, fine. Just keep it a slow, even, fluid rearward motion. A trick that can help with this is to visualize a string connected to the back of the trigger, going through your hands and the frame going all the way to the tip of your nose. Imagine that instead of you squeezing the trigger with your finger, that your actually pulling the trigger slowly rearward by winding the string up with a little winch in your nose. Imagine that your finger is simply riding the trigger backward as you winch it slowly directly towards your nose. It sounds goofy, but I found it to be the best visualization to assist with developing a perfectly rearward trigger squeeze. The idea is that your mind isn't focused on the trigger itself, but rather on the path that the trigger should take through space, moving directly rearward toward your nose. So anyways, shooting accurately at distance is just as much (more actually) about what your thinking about than what your hands are doing. It's about decoupling what your eyes are fixed on (the target), from what they are focused on (the front sight), from what your mind is paying attention to (alignment of front and rear sights). It's about knowing what to pay close attention to (sight alignment), and what you should let go of and allow to drift (sight picture). And it's about using various visualizations and mental tricks to learn how to let go and to do these things instinctually. Being able to shoot well on closer targets isn't simply because they are closer. It's because on closer targets you want to favor sight picture over sight alignment, which is much more instinctual for us to do. On targets out past 25 yards, the physics of the shot change, the technique for aiming changes, and the psychology to use that technique that normally goes against our natural instincts is difficult to develop. Hope this helps.