Turnpike

I had a Lincoln 175 or similar (I don't recall the model number) and later upgrades to a Miller of similar size, but bought the spool gun to be able to do aluminum. Then I learned a little bit more. While the Miller does perform so much better for me than the Lincoln, I learned a Tig is a great asset for Aluminum or light steel. I have a good friend whose livelihood is welding. I refer my questions to him because he will give the short answer and then explain if it looks like I want more (knowledge is power and I hope to be powerful some day). I believe you are looking for a machine which does AC/DC and is sized at minimum of 200. I am in a similar market, but the funds just aren't there. I keep me eye on Craigslist as well, hoping to find a deal I cannot pass up. Good luck, Mike

I have used a 650 for about 14 years now. Prior to that for 7 years was a Hornady. Prior to that was a Lyman single stage for 10 or so years. Eight months ago I added a S1050. I did a lot of researching to ease my conversion process for the 300 blk. I looked at several trimmers. I have the super swage. After doing the math for time spent on each stage the S1050 was the clear winner for me and I would recommend one without hesitation. However in time you may spend nearly the cost of a 650 and several 650 conversions with all the caliber changes for the S1050. I processed a 5 gal pail of 223 last week. I have another 5 gal pail of LC 556 to convert to 300 blk in the next couple of weeks. I also have another 2 5 gal pails of 223 misc. brass to do. This is where my S1050 shines. Beyond this processing the 650 would be a fine press with a case feeder. You'll enhance your reloading by adding a S1050. You'll have more options down the road. Mike

I actuall called Dillon about a concern I was having with my primer feed plate....the primers were entering the case sideways. I was told that sometimes the acuating arm can get bent. This will prevent the plate from fully indexing to the next position. This alllows the primer to enter the plate off canter and coming to rest sideways. There is enough room for the plate to index and the primer to remain sideway. They are sending me a new arm, but gave me some advice on checking my current arm. The indexing arm should rest flat on the bench top when turned upside down. Compare your arm to the new one you are about to receive. And as said above check for any burrs which may cause the plate to hang up. Mike

I have a 1050 now and used to use a 650. If I did not want to use the primer swage as much as I want (need to in my world) I would have stayed with the 650. Buy the 1050 setup for one caliber. That way each one of you can load. If you both fight over the 1050, get another one and then sell your 650. The caliber conversions are much less expensive on the 650 which can be a plus for the lower volume ammunition. Then again you may still want to keep the 650 for those cases after having 2 1050s. With two 1050s you could have one dedicated to SP and one to LP and not have to worry about changing that part out. Mike

I am very new to the Super 1050 as well. The only thing that cured my 1050 from not completely cycling to the next stage was to make sure I was moving the handle in the full range of motion. The only problem I have encountered and I hope fixed by a cleaning is the case feeder to the shell plate. It seems like the cases are either riding high or not seating all the way. If I pulled the feeder back by hand and slowly let it move forward to seat the case most of the time it worked fine. There were a few times where the case would ride high and end up falling off the machine or on it's side on the shell plate. Sorry for the little hi jack and if I covered a cure you are sure you are not inducing yourself, I am still learning as well. Thanks and good luck. Mike

You are correct, you will have to modify the toolhead on a Super 1050 to fit the trim die. The round is relatively short in comparison to the thickness of the toolhead and the clean out holes in the trim die. Therefore the trimming is to allow for the vac adapter and efficient cleanout of the shavings. It is relatively simple process to do. I have a mill and it took about 20 minutes to do it (I am pretty new to using the mill). It works great. I bought my die from Brads Warehouse. You will have to find the link on your own since I don't have enough posted to put a link in this post. He should be on of the first links in Google. You can also get them from CH4D. I have used their 458 socom dies in the past. I used a 650 for many years and a Dillon Super Swage to remove the primer crimp on the 223/556. When the 300 AAC Blackout came along I sorted about 800 LC brass to send off for a conversion by another person. I got to thinking that I could have an endless supply if I did my own. I bought the Hornady dies. Cut the bulk of the neck off with a band saw in a wood jig. Then ran them through the size die (two times to get a good consistent neck shape). Then put each one on an RCBS power trimmer. Then off to the new wet tumbler my father and I built. I found in some cases the trimming was as short at 15 seconds to as long at 45 seconds. The timeline would be 8-10 hours for everything, not to consider the repetive motion creating bordem. I finished the 800 from their current stage and added about 200 untouch 223/556 rounds in less than 1.5 hours. I had some issued with the casefeeder (too many rounds in there) and the feeder to the shell place (rounds would not seat into their recessed areas). I have since reduced the number of rounds in the casefeeder with success. I have disassembled the shell plate and shell plate feeder to clean the area. I am just waiting for time to get back to loading. I researched a better trimming. I kept coming back to the Dillon trimmer, but was concerned about the noise and being able to use it for other calibers with ease and chamfering the neck. I looked at the Giruad as my other option. My only concern with the 300 BLK was the need to be able to hold onto the cartridge during trimming. Trying to simplify the process I turned to the Dillon SUper 1050 for swaging and trimming. After the costly order (total of 4 additional toolheads and one conversion kit) from Brian I am not very happy with the setup and not regretting it one bit. I have a little tuning to still do (I just got things up and running in the last week) before I am up and running 100%. I did put together 5 rounds to test fire yesterday. I need to find my chronograph. Good Luck, Mike

My first progressive in the early 1990s was a Hornady Projector (pre LNL). It definitely increased production. The price was right. When I picked up my first machine gun I determined Dillon powder check was an import feature. After a call to Dillon the 650 was on it's way. I loaded on that press (everything except low round count center fire rifle) until the beginning of 2012. I did a lot of research focusing on the 300 AAC Blackout and converting them from 223/556. This would give me a nearly endless supply of brass and I intended shooting mostly handloads and not wanting to buy brass. I had used a single stage to start the process. When it came to trimming I did a lot of research. Once I added in the need to remove the primer crimp it was clear the 1050 was the best choice fof speed and efficency. I have finished prepping about 900 Blackout cases. I am ready to finally start working up a load for it. My point is the Hornady runs a great price. I am not sure about the quality of the extras, but the press looks good. If I were doing it all over again I would have made the 650 my first press in the 1990s because I did not need the high volume trimming (mostly pistol) and I did not need the crimp remover (I did buy Dillon's super swage later). I would recommend the 650 with case feeder and not look back. Mike

I bought a 1050 from Brian to help speed my process up. I have a trim die from Brads Warehouse for the 300 Blackout. I did not see any pre-modified toolheads out there so I did my own (I figured if I had to buy one, might as well look at the cost to buy one already modifiied). I found it was easy to modify my toolhead. In fact I am getting ready to run my first batch of 223/556 to 300 blk this week. I need to get up and running so I can hit the range. Mike I have heard the same success is had with the CH4D dies. I had a set for my 458 socom and they worked great.

I have a 650 that I have used since 1998 and it has been flawless. Recently I got into the 300 AAC Blackout and after trying to do some brass prep on a single stage and a RCBS trimmer I found myself looking for a better way. The 1050 became an obivious choice. It has a primer pocket swager which the others do not have. The ability to do complete case processing with a trimmer is nearly priceless in time savings. If you don't have a desire to swage primer pockets I would highly recommend a 650 with a case feeder. There is a lot of truth that multiple calibers will increase your costs of a 1050 over a 650. Basically, looking at what you pay for and trying to break it down to apples to apples comparision I figured it was about a $650 dollar difference when you look a press to press comparison. The 1050 had a higher volume capability. However there is a lifetime warranty with the 650. Good luck. Mike