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chad s

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About chad s

  • Birthday 02/18/1977

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    deadfatguy

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    Havre, MT.

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  1. Ok, since I'm a nice guy and there might be other stupid people like myself reading this, I'll share what I've learned in the past 2 hours. If you don't have a manual, just go to the dillon website and download one(duh!), Scooter; thanks for the clear input on how to take those pins out, it was a snap. I've also learned that if you spray any thin lubricant(like rem oil) into the hinge pins, it just washes away the grease that is supposed to be lubing them, and probably carries any foreign material into the pin area to cause even more damage. I didn't sustain any real damage, but lesson learned. I think I'll still call dillon to maybe check on some new link arms with the grease holes in them. Thanks to everybody for the help, and happy loading everyone!!!!
  2. Hi guys, I just wanted to see if anyone could give me a little help. I know I need to and will call Dillon, but it's the weekend and I'm curios. I have a quite old 550, that does not have the lube holes on the linkage pins. It has recently become hard to operate, so I am tearing it apart to grease pins, etc. I read the posts on 550 lubrication which were helpful, but what I really need to know is how to get the upper pins out on the arms that attatch to the main body of the press, specifically the arm that holds the spent primer cup. It looks like they drive in to the main shaft cavity, but I don't really want to break anything. I bought the press used from a co-worker a number of years ago, and don't have a manual. Any help would be appreciated. Also I seen in a post where you need an alignment tool once the press is taken apart, is that true? Thanks
  3. hey guys, I was looking for a few opinions. I happen to visit to the montana gold factory once in awhile and found a deal on some .45 230 gr. JHP's. I've started experimenting, here's the deal. Loading 4.6 gr of titegroup with a OAL of 1.220. These arent ramping up in my springfield champion very well, so I went down to a OAL of 1.205, Again this is a hollow point bullet, seems to feed better, only test loaded and fired two clips, But am I working on blowing up my little champion?? Am I safe? Should I take my champion to my 1911 gunsmith for a little ramp work?, or should I just not try to shoot hollow point bullets out of a 1911 with a ramped barrel? Sorry for rambling on, but I would appreciate someones opinion. Thanks
  4. Thanks for all the input everyone. It appears I've opened a can of worms as far as using j-b is concerned. SO, the people that say i am removing metal, would you say using j-b is a bad thing, or is it just a bi-product of having to have a clean bore? I've noticed results, when using it, by looking down the end of the barrel with a light, but I suppose everyone has their favorite cleaner. Everyone has a differnet opinion, and you know what they say about opinions....
  5. I'm a guy that likes to save a couple of bucks,, does anyone have anything bad to say about the wal-mart car polish trick? I currently use dillon polish, but i'm always up to trying new things. Have a friend that uses brasso, but I haven't heard of any case splitting problems from him. I do believe that the ammonia could damage brass though. Just look at what the amonia in barnes, or sweets, etc.. does to copper, or the shaft of your cleaning brush if it is made of brass, rather than steel.
  6. let me update this a little, I have learned alot about gun cleaning in the last couple months. I used to clean regularily, but only with hoppes or break free or similar, untill patches came out clean. This problem now, is after multiple scrubbings whith a nylon brush and barnes cr-10. So im wondering am i still pulling out fouling from all the improper cleanings before with this j-b bore cleaning compound? Does anyone use this stuff? To answer your questions, no im not using kroil, and patches were dragging at first, but are feeling pretty smooth now.
  7. I just ordered some j-b bore cleaning compound from brownells. After following all the instuctions properly, i've used up so many patches, i can't count em anymore, and still am pulling black crud out of my barrel. Just to let you know, i'm not one of those people who never cleans their guns. So, my question is??? am i really still pulling fouling out of my barrel, or is this just some chemical reaction in this paste that is turing my patches black? I realize there are alot of variables in asking this question, but i thought there might be a simple answer. Thanks
  8. Thanks for the input guys. I see that stinger was using 5.6 gr of titegroup, I did load 50 rounds with 5.2 grains of titegroup, I went and tried them out and there seemed to be very little pressure, and not even much of a bulge at the rear of the case from the glock. I don't have a chrono, but I am just target shooting and was looking for a good safe load with these, I think I'll be alright. Thanks again..
  9. ahhh.. thanks, for now it is all clear to me. I will wonder no more. I tried a search, but it came up with like a million hits on power factor. I did read the links though, pretty helpful.
  10. Can someone briefly explain power factors to me. I see everyone in here talk about it. I have loaded for quite a while now, but never shoot competitions. Is there a formula for it or what. It might help me understand what is going on better in these forums. Thanks.
  11. I made the mistake of ordering a thousand berrys 155 gr hollow base round nose bullets, only to discover, I can't find printed load data for this bullet anywhere. I can compare them with data for a 165, but I'm not much into guessing. I'd like to shoot them out of a g22, so pressure could be an issue here. Anybody have any help? Thanks
  12. Ive been looking at dillon presses for a while now, when one of my co-workers said he had a 550 for sale. $400.00 for the press, 5 sets of dies, the conversion kits, and various other parts. I haven't looked at the press yet, I was wondering if anyone had advise here. I know you can't tell me if it's a good deal, because im not sure yet exactly what all the spare parts are. Is there anything I should look for in buying a used press, or could this be trouble and I should buy a new one. Thanks..
  13. Looking for a good load for the berry's 155 gr hbrn. Shooting a glock 22. Don't care about power factors, dont own a chronograph, I just go to the range and knock down steel, and want a good load. because thse are hollow base bullets, do i use a COL for a 180 grain, which is similar in dimensions? I think? Maybe next time I should just stick to 180 gr., but I love experimenting.
  14. thanks guys, for the input. I think i will try a wolff srping. Eric; what is slide glide? i've never heard of it. Can it be found at shooting stores? I've heard of that trick before except i was told to use toothpaste??? the grit in it does some polishing in there, I'm still a bit hessitant on that theory though. Chriss; I already own two smiths that have wonderful actions, I just bought this for a under the seat gun, and wanted it smoothed out a little bit. thanks all..
  15. I recently purchased an old, but relatively un-used security six. It has a very hard double action pull. Will a mainspring modification, or replacement help this? Can I cut coils or where can I order a lighter one?
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