msg73

I have a nitrofin on my limited gun and like it. However, I had from when I built the gun. So, I cut the barrel lugs with the nitrofin. You should mic your current slide stop to make sure it’s within normal specs. 0.200” I believe. If yours is out of spec, the nitrofin won’t fit right or require fitting.

I’ve been on the fence on adding popple holes for a while now. Can you guys provide some additional details on your personal experiences (e.g. how much reduced dot movement, does it hit harder now, any change in splits, how much more powder needed for same pf, etc)? I’m currently using 8.7gr hs6 with PD 115 jhp at 1.165 to get 170pf, so my barrel seems fast enough to take the holes without having to overfill the case with powder.

It’s a wave spring. They’re sprung around 25lbs and like you said, it’s for extra ‘buffering’. Some put quarters in between it and the buffer spring.

Nice Eric. My 15-22 has been collecting dust in the safe for quite some time. I guess I know what my next project will be ?

There are two main recoil impulses: 1) when your bolt/buffer goes back and bottoms out at end of the buffer tube or quarters/spacer and 2) when your bolt slams forward at the end of the firing cycle. I agree that the rearward recoil impulse would be lessened with a longer stroke but that extra length would also enable the bolt to travel faster in the forward stroke. This is where the feel is very subjective relative to the shooter. I, like many here, have tried different setups and I prefer a shorter stroke with a lighter 223 spring. Like Eric, I use hits on paper and a timer to be the judge as subjective feelings could fool you into thinking a particular setup is better because it feels better but in reality, it may be slower and less accurate.

With a JP bolt and a blitz buffer running 133pf 124gr and 147gr loads out of a 16” barrel, mine had the least movement with a 223 carbine spring and about $1.50-$2 in quarters (forget exactly how many quarters). Definitely had more movement with the dot when I tried a 308 carbine spring. The quarters also made a noticeable impact as I had more bounce with the 223 carbine spring and no quarters vs 223 with quarters. My experiment with wave spring next.

An efficient setup will have much of the gas coming out of the top/side ports of the comp to keep the gun as stable as possible. If there’s excess gas coming out of the front of the comp, that’s counterproductive as it’s forcing the gun back/up. That said, HS6 is used my many (myself included) and the above, while theoretically true, may not have a noticeable impact. It may be more effective if you work on your grip and learn the timing of your gun. You may also be driving the gun down a bit in anticipating recoil. You shouldn’t need to go to a 7lb spring to avoid the dip.

If you can put together furniture from IKEA, you should be able to build one just the way you like it for much less than the GMR. Nothing wrong with the GMR (besides being on the heavy side), but no reason you can’t build something comparable. Bunch of info on setups that have worked well.

Holosun 510c. Clear and crisp reticles, awesome battery life, durable, larger window than cmore and great price point.

Only difference is the straight trigger with shoe vs curved

Find a main/hammer spring that will set off your primers reliably, then play around with different recoil springs. Go out and shoot two quick shots in a clean target and see where your second shot lands relative to the first. If the 2nd shot is low, that usually means the recoil spring is too strong (or you're jerking the trigger). Keep trying until you see a consistent pattern

Spartan V: 17lb main and 9lb recoil CZ SP01: 11.5 main, 10lb recoil CZ Shadow 2: 11.5 main, 10lb recoil I've used 147gr Acme and 124gr Acme/Extreme plated/MG CMJ.

found the answer...

Maybe it's time to crank up the Bridgeport Eric . I really like my 45* mount but I suppose it couldn't hurt to have the c-more further back like some other 90* setback mounts.

round counts are off on some of the stages...