Postal Bob

I use Titegroup with coated bullets. There is some smoke, but nothing like cast lead bullets. The coatings these days is nothing like early moly coating. Shooting outside I rarely notice the smoke.

That's been my exact experience with those same striker fired guns. Sometimes they go off on the 2nd try, sometimes on the 3rd try, sometimes not at all! Thank goodness I've kept the loaded rounds seperate from my other primer loaded ammo. These are now only used in practice, and can't wait to get rid of them.

I've noticed this. And it's even worse if you reload rifle. Rifle powders are almost double what pistol powders are, and usually not even available.

That sounds like very poor customer service on their part. STI guns became Staccato guns years ago. But I was able to send them my STI gun this past Spring, to replace an extractor under the STI warranty. And then on top of it all, they won't even tell you what the thread spec is?

Has anyone who reloaded these Norma cases with the smaller flash hole, chrono'd them to see if there's any difference in velocity as compared to cases with normal flash hole?

Just some speculating. Never used Wolf primers, but I heard they are very hard. And maybe they're also not too consistant. But your OAL of 1.115" is relatively short. I use 1.150". So your bullets are having to jump more before enganging the rifling. Unless your OAL is restricted due to the magazines, lengthen your OAL, and I believe you'll get better consistancy. And yes, a temperature difference of that much will show a big difference in velocities.

Have a similar problem on my gun. If you pressed the trigger enough, it seemed like it was riding past the tab on the safety, and the hammer would drop. I thought that the tab might've worn down some over the years. I checked the grip screws, and sure enough the right side screw was loose. I loosened both screws, pressed up on the grip as I tightened down the grip screws, and now it's working fine.Thanks for the tip. I was almost ready to buy a new grip safety.

Ever considered coated lead bullets? Even cheaper. I use Missouri bullets in my 357 mag, with no leading. https://missouribullet.com/results.php?category=20&secondary=10

I don't see 2011 mags more sensitive. I think the most sensitive are 1911 mags. That said 2011 mags are also fast and easy to clean. Way easier than a 1911 mag. Unfortunately my home range is all sand and loose dirt. So every mag gets cleaned after each stage. But when I've shot matches at other ranges that have a solid ground or grass, I only clean them before the next match, if necessary.

What are you shooting in it that you need a reduced power recoil spring? I ask because my regular P365 works just fine with my 125PF loads.

Exactly. New cases have no carbon fouling inside, which actually acts like a lubricant when resizing. That's why wet tumbling, which can strip out the carbon fouling inside the case, soetimes makes for harder resizing and reloading. You can also try tumbling new brass in some old, dirty tumbling media. It will leave a slight dusting within the case, which will make for easier resizing and reloading. That's what I've always done with brand new brass. Also, take out the powder nipple, and polish it with a dremel polishing wheel. That will also help the brass from sticking to it.

I use carbide dies, so no need to use lube. I occasionally use a little on my 9mm's to make it easier, and just leave it. I also use it for reloading 38-40 and 44-40 rifle rounds and just leave it.

I use Ibejiheads coated bullets with Titegroup, and they produce very little smoke. Different brands have different coatings, so you will see some smoke more than others. Along with them having a very funky smell when you shoot them.

The shiny ring happens when the flared case enters the crimp die, and the case mouth rubs along the inside of the die body before being crimped. Some dies are narrower or wider than others, so some will rub, and some won't. Reducing the amount of case flaring might help if it's too much. But it's more a result of the dies internal dimension. I'd gues that you might be seeing some brass dust on the shell plate, the results of the case mouth rubbing along the inside of the die. And btw, it doesn't affect accuracy at all.

I agree wth the assessment that the mags with the red bases look a lot smaller in size than the STI mag. Are you sure you bought the right caliber? And also to check the dimensions of the 3 mags against the STI mag. The front to back dimension may be too big where they're interferring with the trigger mechanics.