steviesterno

yeah but that doesn't work for a Gen 5 frame they are saying.

who makes an optics mount that attaches to the frame of a Gen 5 17 without using the front rail? I want to put an optic on my Flux but I'm not interested in removing the flashmag. Milling an RMR makes it too low, and I'm leaning towards a rear sight mount but wanted to see if I had any non-reciprocating options.

I have a PC and dropped in a SilencerCo threaded barrel, mostly because it was the cheapest option for a 9mm threaded barrel in something I've owned. What I didn't expect was to see it bump up in accuracy. I put a ~3" group at almost 10 yards with the second magazine. I was pleasantly surprised. Annoying that I'll need to mod my holsters but I was impressed.

still waiting on pictures

Which barrel did you go with?

upon reflection, my 45 reloads were like 4.0 gn clays and my 9mm minor stuff was 2.2gn or so. I do not know the volume difference or if it factors in significantly, but I guess it makes sense you would have less powder so less explosion/noise. I'm not trying to go crazy with quiet. I already do that with 22 subsonics through a bolt gun. that is silly. Just trying to branch into some new areas of shooting and enjoy it more.

why? I hear mixed things about how there's more room in the tube for gas to go around the bullet. Also 45 seems to be pretty low pressure, I assumed *(maybe wrongly) pressure had a lot to do with noise as well.

interesting about that keeping the gas in idea. Ok science guys, which is better/quieter to suppress out of the same can 45 can, a 147gn 9mm or a 230gn 45, assuming they are both at about 1k fps?

not sure that's the cheapest option what can did you have on it?

Closest I've seen so far with a threaded barrel is a Ruger enhanced, and they are $600 right now. But then I think that if I'm going to get a suppressed 1911 I may as well get one with a rail, too, right? and the step up to that is a Dan Wesson for like $1400. I don't see any budget 1911s that have both barrel and rail, but the M&P does. or I can get over the rail I suppose, but where's the fun in that?

Not the usual competition topic but I know many here (myself included) prefer 1911/2011 to other platforms. And some of us even occasionally shoot for recreation not just practice. So with that, I’m wondering if anyone has experience suppressing a 1911. I currently have 2 full size Baers, one for single stack and one for carry/HD. I have heard that plopping in a threaded barrel can eventually mess up the stock stuff unless I have a new bushing. Even then it may wear the slide irregularly. Is that true? Having a barrel professionally fitted brings the price up to damn near what it costs to buy an M&P with already threaded barrel. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

you don't hear people talk about them because not a lot of regular competitors shoot them in matches. They have a history of breaking MIM parts and generally being not worth the money. They are one of the most sold gun brand in America, but most shooters don't put through a gun in a year what many of us do in a match. I have owned a few, from the small ultra carries to the bigger full sized models. I no longer own any. Not because they gave me too much trouble, but I wanted out before they did. I honestly think they are a decent product and I would be buying them at $700 or so. but at $1300 and then you have to replace parts to get what you want, not worth it. They spend too much money on advertising (look at literally any gun mag, full page adds, every time) and don't put out anything at Springfield prices.

Hey all, ordering a can that hat will work for 9mms, so I was thinking it would be a good time to look for threaded barrel. What’s everyone’s favorite for a 2.0 compact and a 1.0 shield? Should have just bought them that way to begin with but didn’t know I would be going this way. I figure mostly use them for range plinking but my 2.0 is my bad weather bump in the night Pistol currently.

Polymer80 is who I went with, but ordered from Hinterland arms. under $100 shipped. a bit more complicated, see below. the newer Gen 2 DOES NOT require you to fit rails. You drill holes for the pins, and in a small Glock that's 2, in the bigger it's 3 per side. THey give you the jig and actually advise you do it by hand, not a drill press. worked fine for me. The rails are a drop in unit, so they are steel just like a "real" glock. no fitting. the polymer you need to remove on the top of the frame can be snipped off with cutting pliers easily and sanded flat. the guide rod channel can be milled out, and then include one. But I don't have a mill and the hand drill got crazy with that bit, so I just used an exacto knife and got the rest out. no reason not to if you like Glocks. I honestly think if you're building your first 80% you should get a fully working glock and steal all the parts. that way you can fix one thing at a time rather than try and trouble shoot all the random stuff. I was a member of GSSF but haven't shot the once a year match in a while. the discount is nice, but there are always people selling the certificates on this page for $425 so that's about what I consider the cost of a new Glock (standard model). the 80% makes sense to me if you don't like the grip angle, want to customize a frame without a risk to your original, you like the idea of tinkering, or you enjoy the idea of shooting a gun with no serial and "sticking it to the man"

right to bear arms in Texas will serialize the frame and send them out. Not sure what you mean by build them (make them fully functional?) but it's like $40. I have also read on AR15.com that you can have these frames shipped to you in CA, then you serialize them yourself after applying for a serial number from a local agency.