Bret Heidkamp

forgot to add that I also port the bbl twice, 12 o'clock, once in the comp thread area, once more behind that through the slide/bbl. No the comp doesn't come off when it gets hot, just in case you're wondering! :-) Use loctite 620 retaining compound on the threads, the green goo of doom.

Comps make a big difference in their design, but mostly I prefer forward angle or straight up and 4 big ports. The Dawson #2 is about the best I've ever used, and I've used just about all of them. 3 ports don't work well unless it's a steel gun shooting minor. I would not "just screw one on and go shoot" - you have to figure out what works, for your style of shooting. Spring weights are just as critical, you can't just "go shoot" there either. Open guns are very sensitive to minor changes, and you need to experiment with what works the best with your powder / bullet combo. For instance, I personally prefer 115's and lots of powder vs. 124's. I like a flat shooting pistol, not a flippy one. Anyone here that has seen me shoot, I shoot fairly fast, most splits are 12's and transitions can be 15's on close targets. so for the OP of the thread, yes angles make a difference but it is small in my opinion compared to the number and size of the ports. 4 port, straight up, dawson #2 and work on springs, recoil rods, and powder loads for around 169 pf. But of course YMMV and it's all about what you like, not me. I'm just saying experiment and you'll narrow it down. You can adjust to anything, but don't handicap yourself with equipment - be true to your own style. my favorite open setup: dawson 2 comp sprinco open race rod 9# spring 15# hammer spring shortened slide 3/8 to 1/2, some flat topped, some not, doesn't matter scoop cut the back where the bomar would go standard bbl let it rip - this setup is not for the timid.

38 Super = more fuel, more gas, more comp. For me, the gun has to shoot flat as possible. If you don't mind a bit more muzzle rise, and if you don't port your barrels, then 9mm seems like a logical choice - although the only upside is brass price. That's not enough for me to switch from a very flat-shooting cartridge to one I have to work with for half a season, personally.

Can you just sand out .005" or a bit more out of the grip interior? That isn't much material - I'll bet the tolerance stacking adds up to at least that much between the mag body and the grip molding. What do you think? A dowel with some 120 wrapped around it might be the ticket.

Good job! Also congrats to our Area 1 Champion, James Ong!

No, but: MASS-RIFLE-ASS-N-INC I don't think you could get me to wear that.

This is a new classifier, so no data on it yet. Shot it in 4.09 down 4, Open. Should be somewhere in the 90's but probably not 100%. Will post % when I find out. Shot all targets from the right side of the barricade, friggin' Alpha-Charlie on every target. Noticed my comp cracked on both sides of the first port before practice the next day - must have happened during the match! Only one week until Area 1, things have a way of breaking just before bigger matches. This one can easily be in the 3.XX range, we had a rather cold temp that day so everyone was slower.

DUST! and powdered dust, with some gravel. Idaho Falls gets like 0.25 inches of rain every decade. (which, considering it was snowing at my place yesterday, might be a good thing)

I've had holes in the frame filled by Mike Johnson - Shooting Specialties up in Havre, Mt. He uses a technique that I have not seen anyone else do. It is some sort of a pressed in metal fill. It looks completely smooth and level with the frame. I have a few on an old frame that were then keyholed with a fresh drilled and threaded hole, and the fill doesn't pull out. That was about 10 years ago, and those fills are still perfectly flush and tight. It is kind of like a blind rivet that is perfectly flush inside and out. Works awesome, not sure how it is done!

Tim, The stages look outstanding. Great job! Thanks to those who contributed the designs, I can't wait to shoot those field courses!!! Bret

And although I am not a big fan of Lilja barrels, Dan and I agree: "A cartridge burning less powder will last longer or increasing the bore size for a given powder volume helps too" If you can get your hands on a borescope, you'll learn a bit about erosion. It is seriously sandblaster-effect related. So, the bigger bore = less abrasive effect until you up the powder charge again. More expansion ratio = less effect for the same powder charge (pretty intuitive physics). Heat ends up showing as thermal cracking rather than erosion - and you can lose little chunks of rifling - ask me how I know! Whole 'nother topic.

Guys, Barrel wear is directly related to the amount of powder burned. A barrel can only have "so much" powder burned in it, and it's done. Powder is abrasive (I mean partially burned / burning powder) thus the throat area gets sandblasted. The area 1/2" back from the muzzle also gets blasted due to the explosive turbulence there, and some of the unburnt bits focused in a small section. Not much to do with bullet wear, although it contributes eventually. It's powder abrasion, sandblasting effect. More powder = more wear. 6.5mm/7mm STW would be a great example. 378 Weatherby might be too, if anyone could stand it enough to shoot it!!

Pictures???

Don't know if this will help with the aluminum grips but on the plastic ones you have to make sure the bushings are new / tight. If they are loose, grips crack. The problem is you can't feel them get loose, it's not obvious. About .001" play must be doing it. Change grips = change bushings, and I've started changing the bushings whenever I do a major overhaul!

Hi Ken, Yeah, once you shoot 260 your 308 will be up for sale! Basically, the donut thing is just because it is tough to outside turn all the extra brass thickness away when you neck something down. The brass gets thicker vs. when you neck up this doesn't happen. Since it is tough to get the OD turner all the way into the shoulder, that little bit of thickness becomes a donut. Thus the need to ream vs. turn. Hope that helps!! I'll buy your new unfired Lapua 308 cases - PM me. Then you can start with the right cases!