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RC1

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About RC1

  • Birthday 06/29/1950

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    Hillsboro Oregon
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    Rick Calli

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  1. Steve, You need to replace the primer punch assy. Junk gets inside the punch assy. and causes the punch to stick up higher then it is suppose to, witch causes the primers to get stuck in wheel as you cycle the machine. Rick
  2. 1.135 oal seems way short to me. I would not go any shorter then 1.155 oal. I would be willing to bet that loading that short, is probably causing the pressure to go to high.
  3. RC1

    To Crimp Or Not To Crimp

    Here is a quote from BENOS,(Mar 28 2005, 04:23 PM) , that might be helpful "Back in the ol' days, when we didn't have the luxury of crimping as a separate operation, we'd adjust our combination seating/crimping die to remove the flare, hopefully without cramming the case mouth into the bullet too much. Then Mike Dillon came along and built machines that seated and crimped in separate stations! Wow - crazy stuff. And then he even started making dies that crimped auto-pistol cartridges correctly, that is to say didn't actually "crimp" at all, but simply removed the flare from the case, laying the (flared) case mouth perfectly flat against the bullet. Unfortunately, somewhere during the taper crimp die's evolution (from the roll crimp die), no one bothered to rename it so as to not mislead folks, for generations. Roll crimping should do just what the name implies - the case mouth is slightly (or sometimes drastically, in the case of a heavy recoiling revolver) rolled into the bullet's cannelure. Which helps prevent the bullet (in the unfired rounds) from moving forward in the case in a revolver. Since revolvers typically headspace on the rim, as long as the roll crimp doesn't deform the bullet's bearing surface, no harm is done with even a heavy roll crimp. Since autoloaders headspace on the case mouth, however, the case mouth should never be crimped so that the case mouth penetrates into the bearing surface of the bullet. So in the case of an autoloading pistol, the "taper crimp die" should never actually crimp the case mouth into the bullet in any way whatsoever. The roll of the taper crimp die is to remove the flare previously applied to the case (in order to seat the bullet without shaving copper/lead) - returning the case mouth so that is snug down on the bullet, but not crimping the case mouth into the bullet at all. After some experience one can learn to "see" (without tools) if this has been done correctly. (Either too much or too little.) But until then a good set of calipers will guide you as you adjust the "Flare Removing" die. Using the thin part of the calipers (near the tip), measure the loaded, flare-removed round's case mouth at the very end of the case. The result should be the sum of the bullet's diameter plus 2 times the case mouth's thickness. (Usually .010" for most cases. So in the 40 S&W, the Flare Removing measurement should be approx. .420". Or at the tightest, .419". And be sure to "roll the case mouth around," so you don't just measure it in one spot. Actually (taper) crimping the case mouth into the bullet almost always results in a loss of accuracy. Not removing the flare enough results in malfunctions. Some gunsmith's will recommend "taper crimping" more than what was previously recommended, and that is easy to understand as to why. If you remove the flare precisely as outlined as above and your pistol (still) has any sort of feedig malfunctions, I can say for sure that crimping the case mouth more is not the solution. Once I learned how to properly set this dimension, I never experienced any malfunctions due to not enough "taper crimp" in over 20+ years of shooting 20-40,000 rounds/year." be
  4. Chills, I have been using the Redding micrometer adjustable bullet seating die on my 650 for a couple of years now. I have loaded many thousands of rounds of 9 major, without any problems! Rick
  5. Here is a quote from BENOS,(Mar 28 2005, 04:23 PM) , that might be helpful "Back in the ol' days, when we didn't have the luxury of crimping as a separate operation, we'd adjust our combination seating/crimping die to remove the flare, hopefully without cramming the case mouth into the bullet too much. Then Mike Dillon came along and built machines that seated and crimped in separate stations! Wow - crazy stuff. And then he even started making dies that crimped auto-pistol cartridges correctly, that is to say didn't actually "crimp" at all, but simply removed the flare from the case, laying the (flared) case mouth perfectly flat against the bullet. Unfortunately, somewhere during the taper crimp die's evolution (from the roll crimp die), no one bothered to rename it so as to not mislead folks, for generations. Roll crimping should do just what the name implies - the case mouth is slightly (or sometimes drastically, in the case of a heavy recoiling revolver) rolled into the bullet's cannelure. Which helps prevent the bullet (in the unfired rounds) from moving forward in the case in a revolver. Since revolvers typically headspace on the rim, as long as the roll crimp doesn't deform the bullet's bearing surface, no harm is done with even a heavy roll crimp. Since autoloaders headspace on the case mouth, however, the case mouth should never be crimped so that the case mouth penetrates into the bearing surface of the bullet. So in the case of an autoloading pistol, the "taper crimp die" should never actually crimp the case mouth into the bullet in any way whatsoever. The roll of the taper crimp die is to remove the flare previously applied to the case (in order to seat the bullet without shaving copper/lead) - returning the case mouth so that is snug down on the bullet, but not crimping the case mouth into the bullet at all. After some experience one can learn to "see" (without tools) if this has been done correctly. (Either too much or too little.) But until then a good set of calipers will guide you as you adjust the "Flare Removing" die. Using the thin part of the calipers (near the tip), measure the loaded, flare-removed round's case mouth at the very end of the case. The result should be the sum of the bullet's diameter plus 2 times the case mouth's thickness. (Usually .010" for most cases. So in the 40 S&W, the Flare Removing measurement should be approx. .420". Or at the tightest, .419". And be sure to "roll the case mouth around," so you don't just measure it in one spot. Actually (taper) crimping the case mouth into the bullet almost always results in a loss of accuracy. Not removing the flare enough results in malfunctions. Some gunsmith's will recommend "taper crimping" more than what was previously recommended, and that is easy to understand as to why. If you remove the flare precisely as outlined as above and your pistol (still) has any sort of feedig malfunctions, I can say for sure that crimping the case mouth more is not the solution. Once I learned how to properly set this dimension, I never experienced any malfunctions due to not enough "taper crimp" in over 20+ years of shooting 20-40,000 rounds/year." be
  6. Clay1, I have put a few k of the 356 fmj zero's through the XD since my post. Have had no problems and they are very accurate. Rick
  7. Norm, I really enjoyed your match today, it was a lot of fun. Thanks for all your hard work! Rick
  8. I am working up a production load for a 9mm XD and am wondering if you guys know of any reason that I should not be able to use 356 jacketed bullets as apposed to 355 diameter 9mm. I am currently using the 356 diameter bullets in my open guns that use a 355 barrel, and I am not experiencing any problems. I would like to use the same bullets for all guns. Thank RC
  9. Going on 2 years on My Hardy Mongoose and zero problems. I could not be happier. RC
  10. I use Zero 125 gr JHP for 9major and 38 SC. Luve them
  11. I like mine, can be a bit temperamental though. It's still much better than messing with those silly tubes! Rick
  12. Thanks for the help, guys. Now if i can just figure out how to get one in my gun that would been great!
  13. Can anyone tell me what parts to get, where to get them, and how to install a detent ball for a slide-racker. Any help is appreciated. Rick
  14. Scubber, You might want to try going to. http://www.uspsa.com/. Here you can find a club near you, really good tips on how to get started in this sport and links to just about anything you need, (to get to the links use the additional content tab). When you find a good club I am sure that you will find many people that will help you get started. You have already started in as good of a place as there is, by coming to this forum. Rick
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