kcd19

The Safariland 014 didn't have enough length adjustment for me. Full size 2011 and BinaryEng CFD comp. Had to get a Racemaster and have been happy with it

Can someone confirm this? This was my understanding as well. 91254 "Black" = Poly 91256 "Blue" = Nitride Both discontinued in favor of 91257 "Black and Blue" to include poly over nitride w/ the blue grips. If 91254 is in fact nitride-only, that would be cool & I'd be interested, but I don't think that's the case. An email to CZ didn't really disambiguate or otherwise provide explanation concerning my questions about the the 91254 SKU, rather re-explaining what I already knew about the new-for-2018 models. Thanks.

The EGW slide stops have always worked for me. Like was mentioned, make sure to get one specific to 9mm. I wouldn't generally consider the slide stop to be a "wear" part in this [engaging the follower] regard, though. If the mags have seen the full 12k rounds, could be mag springs aren't exerting as much "up" force? Tried replacing the spring in a known-good mag/follower combo? Is it possible that you're riding the slide stop with your weak hand?

This led me (and i think others, based on the thread) to believe that the chances of squadding on the weekend were "limited" and perhaps not possible. Glad to hear it's not the case - absolutely a great match, looking forward to shooting it again this year, just absolutely cannot swing it on a weekday. Thanks for the update!

any details on how many - either the exact number or percentage of total slots - are still open for saturday or sunday? is it appearing to those administering the match that it's trending toward single shooters being required to squad on a weekday?

Sounds interesting http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Double-Tap-Aluminum-126-mm-Base-Pad--P2306.aspx Better than these as far as length.. almost another ~5mm if your 12mm spec is correct. https://dawsonprecision.com/extended-baseplates-for-sti-hicap-by-dawson-precision/ If they had announced these a couple of months sooner I'd have rather had them than hacking together STI 126mm magazines.. By the time you buy STI mags for ~$70 and add a baseplate long enough to clear a magwell you're up to ~$90 without touching the follower/spring.. and the MBX mags are way nicer.

yes, they will work. you may have to experiment with your COL for 100% reliability. 1.185-1.200 overall length is generally the sweet spot.

RO is a solid option for your price range. Trigger is fine, not spectacular out of the box. The ginormous rear sight is fine as far as utility goes, but is very larger and very square, which isn't always kind to your hands while racking the slide. Add a magwell, better grips and a FO front sight and you'll still be within budget, more so if you buy lightly used. Adding some grip tape to the frontstrap is a good idea too. ETA #1 - re-spring the gun to match your loads. handles much better with more appropriate spring weight. ETA -- when/if you add a magwell like Dawson ICE that comes with it's own MSH... you will have to replace some of the internals - if i recall, the mainspring, mainspring cap, and mainspring cap retaining pin. the OEM parts are spec'd to the ILS system and aren't a straight swap. << going from memory on this, so it might not be the exact list of parts that need to be replaced.

makes sense. think i had it backward in my head on first read. thanks for the detail.

This topic is of interest to me as well since I am weighing the purchase of the PT Evo. A couple of clarifications, though.. Could you elaborate? By adding material to the ledge? Tig? Or something else? I think I follow this -- effectively you're creating more relief on the shoulder (outside the frame, left-hand side) so that the release will travel further into the frame in order for the newly extended ledge to clear the mag body, right? Thanks!

load longer, 1.135 might do it, but i'd try to get it a lot closer to 1.180. 1.200 has been the ticket for me in 10mm magazines. you might be able to go up 1# in recoil spring to "muscle up" on feeding, but that's not really a fix. as was mentioned, if the premature slide lock is coming from bullets contacting the stop, you might be further ahead loading to 1.200 for reliability and re-shaping the slide stop to fix premature lock as a separate issue. you might try a different bullet profile, too -- RN or a RNFP have been much smoother for me at any length, 1.185 - 1.200

based on your last post, it's not clear whether you changed a single thing at a time, or whether you detail-stripped before/while installing the Dawson guide rod, introducing the potential of an underlying issue where you're just observing the symptoms. at any rate, since you state that it's reproducible when cocking by hand, here is what I would do -- your goal should be to minimize variability and attempt to isolate things. detail strip the gun - take it right down to parts. since you've had the MSH off, i assume you are comfortable with this. put the frame back together. make sure the sear spring is installed correctly. now, before you put the slide assembly back on... do a function check. check all your safeties, check that the hammer cocks and stays back, check that your trigger is working correctly. basically we want to establish "does it work" before introducing more variables. if everything is put back together properly & you are able to reproduce the behavior here, you've got problems somewhere else. gunsmith would be my next move, probably. if everything checks out at this point, put the slide assembly back on. repeat your function checks. still ok? live fire. i have to wonder if the different spring rate with the Dawson rod is allowing a different impulse to affect your sear/sear spring, something along the lines of hammer follow, which is what it sounds a lot like.

phoenix trinity is the largest safety i have ever seen or used, and it's got a large arch. The PT ambi makes the Ed Brown "Wide" ambi look positively low-profile.

all the once-fired i've loaded has been good to go. the advice and discussion surrounding being mindful of the condition of brass is sound. the only brass i've had an issue with has been blown/lost primers on cases where the primers seated too easily, but not so easily that i would have otherwise discarded it. i've adjusted my standards for tossing brass accordingly. i pick up and load pretty much anything, to include 9mm brass from others' open guns. i would offer this as $0.02 on reusing brass multiple times. - toss any of the stepped brass or brass with visible damage - toss any case where any reloading operation feels too easy. resizing, seating a primer, or seating a bullet. all are indicative of wear. brass in good condition has a certain "feel" to it, trust your brain when it says "huh, that didn't feel right". no point in wrecking a stage, match, or your gun over questionable brass. what's bit me before is seating a primer that doesn't have a ton of resistance, but it wasn't no resistance either and i've said "ehh, that should be alright".

I have had to touch up an Ed Brown release to slick it up a bit. I've installed two of them - one was comparable to the factory release it was replacing, one was like shoving a golf ball into a thimble, which was the one i polished a bit. It doesn't take much to smooth it out, just light filing or emory cloth. finished it up with some 1200 automotive wet/dry.