Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

kalaur

Classifieds
  • Posts

    271
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO

kalaur's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Notice on the top row of cartridges there is a lip of coating/lead at the mouth of the case? More bell, less crimp, seat deeper. Try the shoulder of the bullet a thumnails thickness out from the case mouth. Crimping should only remove the bell, NOT so much that the case starts to dig into the bullet (like the lower right cartridge). Don't use a LFC die with lead, coated, or plated bullets.
  2. While sure a new press gives you the warranty, there's not all that many parts to wear out on the dillon presses. You can also purchase any of the parts to replace. I got an old nickel plated RL1050 used, did a complete tear down and rebuild upon getting it home. Even with the couple parts I replaced, it runs great, and I still came out ahead over a new press. These presses can load hundreds and hundreds of thousands of rounds before parts start to wear out. I would be surprised to see a dillon press at 'end of life' unless it wasn't maintained very well. If you're looking for a new press, look at local dillon dealers. Support local business! Sure you'll probably pay more in tax than shipping would be from an online retailer, you'll probably get a smile or two when you return since you made the guy behind the counter a little money.
  3. If you haven't purchased the 650 yet, look hard at that 1050. While my loaded round count per hour didn't increase much going from 650 to 1050, the ammo is MUCH more consistent, and its just an easier press to operate. Priming on the downstroke is a major win on the 1050 vs on the upstroke of the 650, and having a separate flare station on the 1050 vs on the powder station on the 650. Both are great presses, but the 1050 was worth the extra cost and would have saved me a bit of cash if I had just purchased the 1050 off the bat. The only time I'd suggest the 650 over the 1050 is if you're loading for a lot of calibers (caliber conversions and extra toolheads are expensive for the 1050), or if you are not loading all that much ammo in general.
  4. 9mm is a tapered cartridge, and depending on how the bullet seated it may have a little bulge. Check your crimp, looks like you have a slight flare on that round yet.
  5. I usually just chuck them. No sense in having one go off for a single piece of brass, especially common inexpensive brass (9, 40, 45, etc).
  6. +1 wear eye protection while reloading, even if you don't get eye irritation. While the odds of primers/powder going off is slim, better safe than sorry. If normal eye protection doesn't help, try some goggles. It'll leave your face with some interesting marks, but probably worth it if you don't get the irritation. On a side note, hows the lighting on/around your press? Maybe the irritation is strain due to low light? I have a 4' fluorescent light directly above the bench, and additional light right on the press. I do still get fatigued from reloading, but for me I think its just due to trying to pay attention on so many levels to ensure consistent safe ammo. This is generally after a thousand or two rounds loaded in a single session.
  7. With 40 a roll crimp die is fine. On this cartridge, you really don't need to 'crimp' the case, just remove the bell. If you notice a bump under the crimp near the mouth of the cartridge after crimping, you probably are putting too much bell on the case. Use a caliper lengthwise on the case after crimp, and look at it with a light behind the cartridge/caliper. If you still see a bit of bell, more crimp. Straight is OK, anything more than a tiny bit of light at the mouth of the case is probably too much. Be sure to check a few loaded rounds, as length of the case will determine how much crimp it gets. The Lee FCD can work well, just don't use it with plated, coated, or lead bullets. Actual jackets only. I've gone back to the standard dillon crimp die since I sometimes load coated/lead bullets.
  8. Too much lube. I use a plastic bin, dump in 100 cases, maybe half second of spray, tumble around a little, lay cases on their sides again, and maybe another half second of spray. If you're using carbide dies you don't need case lube on pistol cases. Its simply to make sizing just a little bit easier. You don't need very much.
  9. Titegroup meters well, but is dense and easy to miss a double charge. Burns a little hot for lead for me, but might be OK with coated. Looking through my reloading data, I was using 4.8-4.9gr of titegroup with a MTG FMJ at 1.19 OAL. I don't have chrono data however. I prefer WST, I don't think you could get enough powder in a 40 case to cause issues (unless you have an unsupported chamber). It is reverse temp sensitive however, so take that into consideration if you're shooting in somewhat colder/warmer temps than normal. WST load for major is 5.5-5.7gr with a MTG JHP at 1.22. If you're loading shorter with less case volume, you will need to reduce charge. Also note my lot of WST is a bit slow, so you may be lower charge due to that. As with any powder, or even a different jug of powder of the same brand/make, start a little low and work up .1-.2gr at a time and chrono. Watch primers and brass for pressure signs. Good luck!
  10. This doesn't look like FP bounce to me, but that the FP is still protruding and touching the primer as the pistol is beginning to ejecting brass. Also notice the primers on the top the FP mark is deeper. Compare the length of the two firing pins, and replace the firing pin spring.
  11. This is one of the disadvantages of the 650 vs the 1050. One option is to do like most 650 users, learn to be smooth on the handle. Some brass will stick more than others. The EGW undersize die is probably the culprit though. The Lee carbide size die is pretty good, sizes down further than the normal dillon dies, but doesn't undersize as much as the EGW. Unless you have a specific reason, you may not need the undersize die at all. If you ditch the EGW and go lee for sizing, hit the brass LIGHTLY with hornady one shot lube just before loading it into the casefeeder. No need for running the brass through the 650 twice, load the lee die in the main toolhead. The oneshot lube dries enough for it to not be a problem after loaded. The little bit of lube that may get on the inside of a case will also help with the upstroke coming off the flare die. Just don't overdo it with the lube or it can get sticky when it dries. If you insist on using the EGW die in a separate toolhead, so you can cleaning the brass after, try the flare die from the 1050 in that first toolhead, then switch to the 1050 powder funnel in your second toolhead. Still twice as many handle pulls as needed, but smooth sailing.
  12. For the OAL on the edge, most jacketed bullets you can load out past 1.180, I've even loaded to 1.240. For lead, it really depends on your barrel, and the profile of the bullet. Generally you can still be in the 1.160-1.180 with lead. Missouri makes great bullets, I've used the 170gr LSWC and the 180gr LTC. About 4.8gr of WST at 1.170 should get those near major. For jacketed, MTG 180 JHPs I load with 5.2 to 5.9(CAUTION: my jug of powder is slow) at 1.230 or so. For a minor load, 3.8gr of WST behind a 180gr FMJ at 1.180 is about 128PF out of my gun. WST is reverse temp sensitive, It'll slow down as temps go up. Be aware of this if its excessively cold or hot. Biggest thing with 40 loading major is start low and go slow, load up and CHRONO your loads. Watch primers for pressure signs.
  13. I'll add one more to that 6. Firing higher pressure rounds out of guns with unsupported chambers. To the OP. Welcome to the world of unsupported chambers. If you want to shoot major loads, you need to look at slower powders, especially since you cannot load long. I personally find WST to be more of a go-to than TG. Works in 9, 40, or 45 with lead or jacketed rounds, major or minor.
  14. The basepad should be coming nowhere near the frame. Is it hitting on your magwell? What magwell do you have installed?
×
×
  • Create New...