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famous187

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Evansville, IN
  • Real Name
    Chris Egan

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  1. Thanks for all the help! To answer some questions: I'm reloading on a 550b Reloading for a Bushmaster 5.56mm AR and will soon have a BCM 5.56mm AR I will be trimming with a WFT in a drill Trimming / deburring with a handheld Hornady tool Primer pocket reaming with a handheld Hornady tool My goal is to make some reliable / some-what accurate blasting ammo for matches in my area, nothing too serious. I haven't tried to size anymore brass since the post. I still haven't been able to find the powder or bullets that I want to use. My plan now is to take the advice above and hold off on sizing anymore. I have 10 cases sized to where they check out OK in the Wilson gage (in between the high and low step) , once I get the components I want I will load up these 10 cases with a minimum load and make sure they function in my rifle. I will also invest in the EGW chamber gauge. Some more questions: Should I buy the 5.56 or 223 EGW chamber gauge? I hear that alot of people setup there FL sizing die to size until the case is just barely below the "low" step on the case gauge. Is this better than having the case sit in between the low and high step? I will be reloading alot of different headstamps , should this factor into how I setup the sizing die? I would rather have a "universal" setup than having to adjust for each different headstamp. Thanks again
  2. So, I have been reloading pistol calibers for the last couple years and decided to take the rifle plunge. Starting out with 223 and I'm getting the brass prepped while I try to find some powder , primers , and bullets. Anyways, I bought a set of the Redding 223 dies (Full Length) and read online that I would need to screw the die down until it touches the shell plate and probably a little lower. I did that and resized about 150 cases. At this time I did NOT have a case gage. Well, after receiving my Wilson case gage I have found all the cases I resized are well below the MINIMUM case headspace, indicating that I have pushed the shoulder back too far (right??). So I start playing with getting the die set correctly with the Wilson gage. I get it set so that the brass falls within the high and low step of the gage. In order to do this I had to back the die off the shell plate to the point where it is no longer making contact with the plate. I did not think this would work as the die clearly can't size all the way to the base of the brass but, the empty brass will chamber and extract in my AR just fine. So here are my questions: 01. I'm assuming the brass that I have resized with the neck pushed back too far is no good now right? 02. Is it a big deal that the die is not touching the shell plate as long as the brass gages fine and chambers in my gun? Thanks
  3. Thanks for the reply. I think I will buy a pound of the 2400 and try it out. Question though, if I decided to do the powder charge step outside of the progressive press, what would be the best / cheapest way to accomplish that? I will not be loading a big volume of this round so I don't really mind the extra time it would take. If I did do that, how would I set the belling on the case since I wouldn't be using the 2nd spot to charge on the 550B, which without the powder funnel wouldn't set the bell? thanks chris
  4. I live in Indiana and will be using a T/C Encore Rifle in .357 Maximum next year for deer hunting. I already have the dies & caliber converison for my Dillon 550B and now I'm starting to get my components together. Here is what I will be using so far: Hornady 180gr .357 HP XTP Bullets Remington .357 Max New Brass Remington Small Rifle Primers The only thing I'm not sure on is what powder to use. I have read good things about 2400 , IMR 4227 , H110 , and AA 1680 in this cartridge. I'm wondering what powder will work the best in my Dillon 550B. I have only reloaded .45ACP and 9mm on it thus far with Bullseye and HP-38, which have metered fine. I want to be able to use the powder feed on my Dillon 550B so I want to pick the powder that will meter the best. Anybody help on picking one out? thanks chris
  5. For you guys stippling your own - do you just stipple over the serrations on the front and rear straps or do you have to sand those areas down first to make them smooth? I have stippled the MOE grip & handguard on my AR and want to do this to my glock. I have already stippled indexing points on the front of the frame for my trigger finger and under the trigger guard for my support hand. I just need to know how to do the front and rear straps. I don't plan on touching the sides too much since this is my carry piece and I dont want it rubbing on me or sticking to my clothes. thanks
  6. make sure your trigger mech is lubed well and after 500rds or so it should break in. I haven't done any mods to my trigger and its improved a bunch since it was new. i do plan on doing the .25 trigger job to my next glock though.
  7. im the same way. not that im much of a shot off the bags lol. i think its true that there is a technique to it just like shooting off hand.
  8. I've tried the 3M stuff and it does work well but, I can't cut the shapes as good as the Talon grip tape i purchased.
  9. I prefer the green on pistols and a red dot on carbines. Go figure..
  10. I have tried the following IWB holsters: Raven Phantom Blade-Tech Nano Shielded Holsters NTAC Personal Security Systems CompTac M-Tac I currently only use the Comptac M-TAC for my G19. It is a compromise between comfort , access to gun , and concealment. The main thing I liked about the all kydex rigs was when reholstering it was VERY easy. The MTAC takes some practice and you have to really watch what you are doing. I do train with the MTAC but if I know I'm going to be making alot of draws and reholstering then I will usually switch to something all kydex.
  11. I use the Chip McCormick 10rd mags. They have performed fine for me but I currently only have 500rds between two of them.
  12. Check out the Looper Leather gun belts. They are good to go. Blade Tech sells them under their name as well.
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