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jh9

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  1. Thanks guys. Doesn't look like Apex is taking new work right now. Will definitely follow up with Ford and Glenn.
  2. Can anyone recommend a smith in the phoenix/tempe area taking new revolver work? Barrel swaps / refinishing / etc. IOW more than just spring swapping and action work.
  3. The "Pro" series guns are shipping with the older Wolff type 2 "competition" mainspring and the longer (square butt, I think?) strain screw. In my 627 pro this would pop anything but CCI 550s. From memory the regular CCI 500s were fine. For a 10-11 adding the Apex 'tactical' firing pin + spring should be plenty reliable with .38s. I wouldn't trust it with magnum primers though. I have a Wilson mainspring somewhere. Like the Miculek, it's a bent OEM spring. The only way to know if it'll work with whatever primers you're using is to give it a go.
  4. The 4" 627pro comes chamfered from the factory. If you had it chamfered more aggressively then you should definitely test it if you plan on shooting without moonclips...
  5. Nevermind. I just saw the part in "authorized modifications" that specifically mentions tri-topping. I swear I actually do read things before I post.
  6. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95041&hl=+1911%20+tri%20+top&page=5 That's the only thread I found, and the last post is in 2009 with no real definitive answer. Two questions: Here and now, in 2016 is tri-topping a slide and/or hi-power cuts permissible in SSTK? Is there any additional info/ruling/etc on what constitutes 'slide lightening for a competitive advantage' vs something that's just decorative?
  7. From the ad: That's why I just bend the stock spring until I gerte exactly what I need. Otherwise you end up with a bagfull of various spring weights. These are probably OK, chances are they will work... if not, you can always bend them. There are many weight rebound springs available, simpler just to buy stock ones and cut the length. That way you know exactly what weight they are by measuring the length and you don't have to keep five different kinds around. Aren't the rimfire guns notorious for being sensitive to lighter mainsprings? I kinda chalked the 617 issue up to being a .22 At any rate, I tried it out yesterday with a Wolff type 1 (which didn't work before with the short strain screw) and a longer strain screw. AFAIK they make 3 of these? A short (round butt?), medium (square butt?) and a longer version that I have no clue what it's used for. With the longer strain screw it popped off 50 Fiocchi primers and left a deep mark, but was nearly as heavy as the stock spring with the shorter strain screw. The lighter (13,14 pound) rebound springs made for a way too sluggish reset. I went back to the 15 pound Wolff rebound spring and stock mainspring. Since it's not a dedicated game gun and I've gone as far as I can with rebound springs and a fine stone I'll probably just send this one off and let someone who knows what they're doing do a proper "carry" action job.
  8. Thanks for the input guys. I've already polished the interior of the frame where the rebound moves and gone down to a 15lb Wolff spring for the rebound. I was hoping to find a mainspring that would still be reliable regardless of primer (this is a carry/nightstand gun, not a game gun) but maybe knock another pound or two off the DA weight. Not going for super light, just hoping for some improvement without compromising reliability. I've got 3 Wolff Type-I / "factory" mainsprings in my parts box that don't work with either this gun or my older IDPA 686. In this gun with the factory strain screw tightened down all the way there's not enough preload on the spring to clear the rebound. When working the action the rebound hits the mainspring. In the other 686 it works with federal primers, but isn't even 100% with winchesters much less CCIs. These are Type I, not Type II. Already have Apex carry/duty firing pins in both guns. I went ahead and ordered the wilson kit and will try it out and see with some Magtech ammo since the european primers have a rep for being pretty hard. Don't currently have any CCI primers on hand. Figure if it doesn't work I'm only out like $13. Just wanted to ping the hive mind first and see if anybody else had tried this getup.
  9. Anybody used one of these? http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Custom-Tune-Spring-Kit-SW-K_L_N-Frame-Revolvers/productinfo/178/ If so, how was reliability with primers other than Federals?
  10. The only reservations I have are factory ammo making major (4" barrel in the 627pro) and factory bullets' (.355") accuracy at longish distance. Reloads would be using proper size lead, but part of the appeal is using factory ammo when it's available and I'm too lazy to put the press back together (live in an apartment) for loading up another batch. Anybody got rough chrono numbers for factory ball? I'd be plenty happy with girphoto's accuracy if those are .355" bullets.
  11. I'm thinking about having my 627 pro converted to 9mm. Mostly out of annoyance of having to transmogrify my 9mm and .38spl 550 toolheads every time I want to load it. That and I never did buy a *lot* of .38 short colt brass while I'm otherwise swimming in 9 and .38. Is there any reason to believe that having a shop like TK Custom do the conversion will get around some of the factory 929 issues (extraction issues specifically)? Is this a stupid idea that I should feel bad about saying in public?
  12. D'OH. Yeah. I forgot to do that. So even left handed it will behave with empties in it. Now I feel like an idiot...
  13. Good to know. I wonder if the factory does extractors like hands, in that some are intentionally *way* oversized (like they used to be) and others aren't.
  14. Hm. Was it a new post CNC / post MIM gun?
  15. Based on what toolguy said in post 8 this may be worth a shot. I should probably consider this hand toast anyway, so not much to lose.
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