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I had a Hornady LNL AP for a little over a year. At first, I had priming issues: Primers would not seat flush. It took many calls to Hornady Customer Service, many replacement parts, and many different "Try this...". When I finally got the primers to seat flush (they would never seat below flush like they are supposed to), I then discovered that the shell plate would not stay in time. I had to adjust the timing pawls frequently. This was taking up the time I needed to spend loading ammo. On top of that, the case-feeder would not feed 9mm cases without jamming, or showering brass all over the floor. The powder measure would back-out, throwing inconsistent charges. Another call to Hornady Customer Service, and they sent some shims that stopped the back in-out. The shims made it difficult to adjust the powder measure PTX depth, because they would lock the bushing to the die where the bushing would come out if I turned the powder die; making it necessary to use a pair of channel-lock pliers to loosen the bushing from the powder die to make any adjustments. So, I was stuck with a press that needed constant attention, and adjustments, to load just a few hundred rounds, and I still would get high primers on occasion. The ideas incorporated in the LNL AP are brilliant, but the execution of these ideas was completely flawed. The tolerances in this machine were way too loose. This will not do in a machine that has to adhere to tight, fine tolerances to make ammunition. I really wanted to make this machine work. I purchased several shell plates, all four case-feeder plates, several Case Activated Powder Dies, several powder meter inserts (standard pistol, standard rifle, micrometer pistol, and micrometer rifle), nearly all sizes of PTX expanders, spare springs, timing pawls, primer system parts, and the large akro bin for the completed rounds that Hornady should have included with the press in the first place. I was invested in this press, and I was determined to make it work. Hornady Customer Service was very good, with just one rep. that treated me like I did not have a problem (that I just thought I did), denying that the problems I had were known to Hornady. During this long, frustrating process; I still needed to load ammunition, so I bought a Dillon RL550b to load on until I got all the bugs worked out of the LNL. There were just too many parts that were out of tolerance, including main press parts that did not fit right. The quality control was not there, and I did not want to spend a lot of money sending it back to Hornady repeatedly until they just replaced the whole thing with another press that might very well have the same problems, so I sold the Hornady, and all it's accessories. I am still loading on the RL550b. I thought that I had to have auto indexing and a case-feeder, but using the 550 taught me that I did not need these things at all. While the Hornady powder measure is a good one, I found that the Dillon powder measure was just as good. Both would throw within 1/10th of a grain with the same powders. The bottom line is: It does not make any difference what color your press happens to be. What matters is the completed ammo quality, and the time and effort it took to achieve the quality you wanted. Many people say their LNL AP's run perfectly, and they have none of these problems. I believe them. Many others say they had the same, or similar problems I had, and could not remedy them either. I believe them too. If having auto indexing is a must-have, and it would be a deal breaker if the press did not have it, I ask you to do yourself a favor: Find someone who has a 550, who will let you try their press. Then find someone who has a 650, RCBS 2000 Pro, or LNL AP and try that equipment as well. I know several people, who thought they had to have auto indexing on their progressive press, that changed their minds after loading some rounds on my RL550b. Don't let auto indexing be a deal-killer. Make your decision on which press will deliver the quality ammunition you need, in the quantity and time you desire. If you decide on buying the LNL, I sincerely hope you get a good one. I hope you get a good press no matter the brand, or color. I hope this helps.

How about a redesigned primer system on the xl 650? A built-in swager would be nice (on the 650). But, really, no complaints. Every Dillon machine I have used has been far better than the other brands I've tried. Anybody wanta buy a Lock-n-load AP?

I read somewhere, maybe on this forum, to use a green, plastic scrubber pad to polish the slide surfaces. It may be all you need. Good luck! Let us know what you find that works, please.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through. Tim Ijust fixed the problem of high primers, and now, I get the problem of the timing staying off center. Does Hornady think this is something acceptable? They mostly deny all reported problems with priming. Are we supposed to beta test these presses for them? It seems we are paying them to develop their technology. Why do they not fix this? I have seen A LOT of reported problems with these presses. The Hornady techs I have talked to say they do not monitor the internet, so they do not have any knowledge of these problems. It just seems like bad business to me. I REALLY wanted this LNL AP press to work for me. I will just sell it, and replace it with something that will work without all the problems, that Hornady does not seem to aknowledge. When you buy the Dillon and it has problems will you be this negative. If you called me on the phone with your attitude I would hang up. Your best option is sell the press. You won't be happy til you (and probably not even then). I did not mention a "Dillon". You did. I'll sell you this press in a heartbeat. YOU can deal with it. I'll buy an RCBS, if it will work. Tell your bosses at Hornady you screwed this one up. BTW, I'm almost sure I did talk to you when I called Hornady customer support. You sound just like them. Read all my other posts on this subject, befor you make a comment... but I guess you already did... TROLL.

Here they are side by side: http://www.sashooter.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=749 What you are missing. 1. The XL650 has less leverage than the LNL, but a bit shorter throw. 2. You don't have to hunt down 12 different allen wrenches to adjust everything. 3. You don't have to pick up a zillion spent primers off the floor. 4. You don't have to buy an expensive conversion kit, just a shell plate. 5. You have a much better powder measure that is easier to adjust. 6. You don't have to take two screws out and a fail safe rod to dump the powder measure. 7. You don't have to manually cycle the powder measure 6 to 10 times to get all the powder out. 8 . You don't have to pick the missed primers out of the exit shute. 9. Your not going to lose the detent ball when cleaning the press, and when it falls down in there hunt up a small magnet to get it out. 10. You won't be losing the case retaining pins, or worse bending or breaking them. 11. You don't have to stop every couple hundred rounds and tighted the fail safe rod. 12. You won't look into the primer exit tray and wonder where those little shards of metal came form or why is there powder in the tray. 13. You won't be digging thru the spare parts kit to find that the part you need does not come in the kit. Sat down tonight to run a few hundred more 9 mm major rounds, started out ok then ran into hard primer seating, this was the little lever that rides against the case, had to tighten the adjustment, only two differnt allen wrenches. Ok a couple hundred down the line, couldn't seat a primer to save my life, it was the little block that works the lever that advances the primer wheel, it just wasn't going far enough, ok moved the block down as far as it would go and now its back on spec. Couple hunder more rounds, now the f'ing thing is biting a chunk out of the brass going into the sizing die, stop and adjust the rod that stops the block that pushes the case into the shell plate. Ok did I say you will miss all the complicated adjustments of everything, and once right it runs for a few thousand then repeat. When the index is correct on the Hornady, and you have the primer slide adjusted correctly your biggest issue is getting powder into the primer punch and it is easy to clean, you can load many thousands of rounds without every hunting up an allen wrench. Ok, I'm thinking 1050 as I write this, because I load 9 major and it annoys the crap out of me when I hit a GECO or a WCC piece of brass. I could use the primer swager. I load lots of 9 major on the Hornady using the bullet feeder, but its set up for 45 right now, I need to finish those and set it back up for my 9 major. Honestly the XL650 works very nicely with 38SC and 40 S&W but it has never liked 9 mm, maybe I need to call the Exorcist. And to think I had two of them for a while, sold one kept the LNL. By all means the xl650 case feeding mechanics is better, the case feeder the big thing up top is almost identical and you can switch the case feed wheels between the two machines. The number of Brass Rains, and upside down cases is very similar, and as I mentioned in an earlier post a piece of card board cures both of those issues. Neither of the case feeders can keep up with me when I'm using the bullet feeder, I have to wait on the cases to catch up. I'm glad it works for you. If you can get Hornady to replace my LNL, then I might be less hostile to their inconsideration to the pile they sold tome, and don't want to make right.

I am open for being adopted as well! Great setup, by the way.

Thanks, Kevin! I knew I could count on another old warhorse!

Kevin, Which size is that knob? I went to the site, and they have them in 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8. They come four to a box, but they did not show the other side of the knob so I could determine the right size. Thanks for the information!

Glad to hear you got a 550! You should be happy with it. It is the best selling progressive press on the market for good reason. Welcome to the family! Have a round of Blue Kool-Aid!

The screws used in every joint of the linkage have come loose on mine. I keep a bottle of locktite on the bench now. I'll have ot inquire about the shim to keep the powder die bushing from rotating out.

I'll help anyway I can. I know first-hand how frustrating it can be. I don't mind working to fix problems. I do mind Hornady treating me like I am too ignorant to use their press, and people that want to say "I don't have any problems with mine." when I am looking for solutions. There are many good people on this forum that have been a lot of help to me, and I am sure they are more than willing to help anyone that asks. I still do not have everything working right on my LNL AP. I am going to polish everything that moves and make whatever modifications that I need to get it to run. I asked one of the hornady techs about an idea I had for modifying the primer punch assy. He said if I modified anything it would void my warranty. I told him the warranty is worthless since the press does not work, and they were un-willing to help. I can't get a straight answer on where their equipment is actually manufactured. I'm guessing somewhere in asia. The only other reloading equipment that is this pooer in quality (that I have personal experience with) is Lee. Both Lee and Hornady have some brilliant ideas, they just execute them poorly. At least Lee doesn't charge full market price. Don't get me wrong; Lee makes some real good stuff, i.e. the factory crimp dies, the classic cast press, the classic turret press, the auto-prime (hand-held priming device), and yes, the breech-lock system. It is a cheaper way compared to Hornady's LNL bushing system, but it won't back-out. Now Lee is offering this system on their classic cast press. I wish they would offer it on thsie classic turret. Hornady makes stuff I like. Their Concentricity Tool is great. I like their cam-lock bullet puller, stuck case remover, OAL gauge kit, case prep center (even though it is quite pricey), and their LNL powder measure (it is quite accurate, but be careful it has sharp edges in it). I like some of Hornady's bullets as well. I just wish Hornady's quality was as good as it was 20 years ago. I also wish they were not so short, rude and condecending on the phone. Not all of them are like that, but it only take one, or two to make you take your business elsewhere.

I'm going to have to look for the AR-Comp powder. Has anyone had good results from BLC(2)?

I'll watch the powder measure closer now. I was not aware that folks were having trouble with powder sticking to the surfaces cleaned with the One-Shot. I've used the One-Shot cleaner and dry lube, and found it worked pretty good. I sprayed it liberally, like the guy in the video (video that comes with the press), and scrub all the oil / grease out. Then I spray it down again, and wipe it all off with those blue shop towels. I let the parts set for several hours, to ensure they are completely dry, before I re-assemble. It has worked well for me so far. I make sure I wipe it all off any surface the powder will touch. On other surfaces, such as the linkage, I spray it on, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. It leaves a film of dry lube. I have not tried brake cleaner. That might be a whole lot faster... It's bound to be cheaper. Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube is over $8.00 per can at my local shooting supply. I have had a lot of trouble with the LNL AP, but the powder measure has worked great! The linkage (CAPD: Case Activated Powder Drop) needs a little lock-tite on the screws to keep them from backing-out and falling apart, but the measure has been super consistant with ball and flake powder.

What they sent me, and others I've heard from, is a C-shaped shim made of spring steel that goes between the O-ring and the metal of the powder die, and completely fixes the backout from torque/pressue from the PTX. While all other dies lock in fine using finger pressure with the LnL bushings, the powder die needs to be tightened in place with wrench or channel-locks. I also don't know what the CAPD is. Central Auditory Processing Disorder? CAPD = Case Activated Powder Drop. It is the mess of stamped steel linkage that moves when the powder measure rotor turns to drop a load of powder.

The one that is easiest to clean. I know some people that load lead bullets using a Mr. Bulletfeeder. I have heard the biggest issue is cleaning the bullet lube off the collater and feed die.