dauntedfuture

I had a SA 1911 9mm that did that. Primer flowed a little and is sheared off. Marerial would build up in fp hole and cause malfunctions. I replaced Ti firing pin w steel one and it went away.

You also need to verify that your stick powder does not hang up or bridge in the dropper I polished my droppers for .22 and 6mm ive not had an issue in .30 w rl-15 or varget

There are two approaches that i know about for using a dillon 550 and each requires verification 1. Use ball powder and be consistent with operation Short stick powder can work 2. use a 450 powder through die; you stop the press so that the ctg is all the way up in the die and pour weighed powder through i load my 1000 yd ammo on a 550 using option 2 in both or really all cases, you need to check Extreme spread numbers and accuracy i have a .308 set up that shoots sierra 175’s and surplus reloaded 15 Accuracy is there but es numbers are 35, so good for about to 600 yds if you find a ball powder that works and get good numbers, you dont need to weigh charges and dillon measure will be fine

I loaded some 60g sierra tmk’s w it 26g in a pulled down, lc case I was getting some good velocity in 14.5” and 16” id try blc-2 data and see what happens Thats what i did

I am going to answer your question simply: Yes.. Measure the ID of your case necks and it will be smaller than your bullet. How ever smaller is your common and usable neck tension. try shoot for a .306 id case mouth for a .308 bullet and see what happens to include checking sd and es numbers. ----continue for more technical if you really want to but that was the short answer to your question---- Yes, other factors do effect neck tension; however with any given, specific stick of brass and any given specific bullet, a smaller id case mouth = more tension. Change the case and make it harder or softer or a bigger or smaller bullet and yes tension changes. If you size a given stick of brass in what ever die you have, it should be .003-.001 smaller than the bullet. If its .004 or more smaller, that's too much and you will likely damage your bullet or shave it. If you have zero neck tension or a .308 hole and a .308 bullet, you wold be able to press the bullet by hand, a .308 bullet in a .309 hole would fall out. bolt guns can go .001-.002 most of the time, most semi autos do well with .002-.003. Some dies are so bad that they will give you .005+, i used to have a .223 die that resulted in an id of .219; bullets were damaged and that did did not work. Bushing dies allow you to adjust NT without turning brass. You can increase NT in a common die by reducing the button but a given measurement will only be constant with a specific brand or lot of brass; it would not be the same with LC and Lapua. I have never worried about doughnuts and you dont always get them. NRA HM XC and LR

You are fine with about any "normal" primer in an AR EXCEPT rem 6.5's. 7.5's are great.... See which ones give you better ES numbers.

I have a 21” that holds 8 and 24” that holds 12 I cant tell a difference on target The only difference i feel is when there are another 4 shells in the tube both shoot slugs as well

Buying new slugs is not an option All brenekee slugs are the same length

Its a 9 rd taccom extension

Its a Brand new spring Could it be too long? 9-12” past end of tube right? the rio and fiocci slugs are all the same length as are most all brenekee type slugs No issues w same slugs in other two m2’s

I have a very new M2 3G model. Added tube extension and swapped out lightened bolt and carrier assembly from another M2. This new gun w. used BCG, last slug is hanging up coning out of tube. A push to bottom of carrier gets things rolling again. Gun might just need breaking in more. Runs w. 1 1/8 @ 1145 bird shot and runs RIO and Fiocci Low-recoil slugs.... just hangs up w. last slug. Any ideas? Should swapping BCGs matter?

My understanding is that you really want a small firing pin bolt w. a 6/6.5mm CM build. JP has them, not sure who else makes them but that's the way to go.

What are your SD and ES numbers? I really need to know both. Imagine you have a 10 rd string; 9 rds are all 2800 fps exactly, and the 10th is 2900 fps: ES = 100, SD = about 30. Provided the group was good enough, as defined as 10 rds, 3" @ 300 yds, this would indicate to me that there was an issue w. 1 round as opposed to all 10 and id examine the cause of that one round to give me another 100 fps. (this is a simplified example) In reality, you are more likely to get what are good SD numbers but still have high ES: I am more interested in the ES for a sample than I am of the SD. If the ES is low, 20-30 FPS from 10 rds, the SD will almost always be low as well. so, if 5 shots in 1" at 100 is "good enough" in terms of accuracy I would first look at what primers you are using before I do anything else. Try Rem 7 1/2's. Next, are you trimming your brass? You should as neck length variations will influence velocity and groups. Try reloading brass you are SURE you have fired in that rifle if you want to really get serious as mixed brass, even FL sized, will very in shoulder length location and this will influence capacity, velocity and groups. Once you find the primer that the powder "likes best" you should see an instant reduction in velocity variations. We could spend hours on this but this should get you started. For NRA HP 1000 yds I want under 20 FPS ES. For 3 gun .223, 30-40 is fine.

Federal low recoil LE buckshot, which is... flight control.... Pattern your gun with your chokes and see what happens. There is a huge difference in BS patterns and choke can have a large impact. Some BS will open up w. tight choke in a flight control wad.

Lets try "primers seated too deep for 100"