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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About GunslingerDK

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    Finally read the FAQs

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  • Real Name
    Andreas Danko Thomsen

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  1. I usually do use a qtip to clean both the inner primer tube on the machine as well as the tube of the primer filler. I fixed the problem by putting a small piece of electrical tape on the jaws of the tip. My thought was that if I could mechanically prevent the primer from getting stuck between the jaws the problem would be solved. Of course the underlying issue is that sometimes primer no.2 is dragged forward with the slide. Could be they are a little out of spec, I don't know. Now the tape prevents it from being stuck into the tip. I don't know if Dillon makes the tips in-house or they are sourced from elsewhere. If the composition of the plastic used has changed making the material softer, this would most likely be the result.
  2. Thank you :). What annoys me the most is, that the 5 years I have had the machine, a worn tip used to be the only reason for this problem. Now I can change the tip, and load 10 rounds then it happens...
  3. Yes. I have load anything other than stuff that uses small primers.
  4. Nothing that I hadn't tried many times.
  5. I am about to loose my mind. I have been having this problem lately. It is a known problem, but usually a sign that the blue tip simply needs changing. I am having the problem constantly even with new tips. I can hardly load 20 rounds between occurrences. When removing the delrin triangle holding the brass in place, I can clearly see what is happening. The moment the primer slide starts moving, no 2 primer in the tube moves forward with the slide and then being caught between the jaws of the blue tip, preventing new primers from being fed. I've been tinkering with this sh*t for days. I have the following parts on hand: 2 complete primer assemblies 3 different primer slides: 1 with brass roller, 1 with a rubber bushing and one without anything. A variety of blue tips. I have made sure they are perfect without dings, mold flashes etc. I have tried every conceivable combination of the parts above to no avail. I have tried the usual fixes as per earlier threads: Primer slide is polished Edge of hole in slide is polished to facilitate easier entry of the primer into the slide. primer tube retaining nut is not tight Machine clean (of course) Besides this I have tried: Putting shims on the primer slide stop on either sides to manipulate the final position of the slide Putting shims under the entire assembly to increase the distance from the blue tip to the slide I have changed every part and spring in that area of the machine Using the inner primer tube (with the brass tip) from my 650. I bended the actuating arm 3 times within 1000 rounds so I gave up on that I simply cannot understand what is causing this problem. I have loaded over 250.000 rounds on this machine and have been able to solve most of the problems I have encountered during the years. Many of which I found solutions for on this board. The machine is run by a Mark 7 and I am using a FFB plate, not that any of that matters really. I am using Winchester primers. Any suggestions?
  6. I bought a large shipment of brass from them about a year ago. I am out and am looking for more. I was surprised to learn their phone is disconnected, the homepage is down and my emails bounce back. Did they close the business? If anybody knows anything I will appreciate the info. Thanks.
  7. Mark 7 Bullet sense sensor

    Is that next on the list of sensors?? That would be a great addition....
  8. Mark 7 software update

    At my place of work we have 2, an X and a Pro. Updating the Pro went easy,and I really like that it is infact possible to get a good index speed now. Up to this point we ran an index speed of 9, and still got a fair share of bullet topple. Now we run it at 3 and barely get a single one! FYI at the 2400 setting with index 3, the machine produces 1960 an hour. To further decrease the case wobble I think you need FFB shell plates. We run processed brass so have not felt any difference with the jam sensitivity. It is set at 0 as it always is and picks up stuff as it always has! The X on the other hand has been a bit more troublesome. According to the system itself, it has the correct firmware and software installed but nothing has changed with the index speed, which I don't really understand.
  9. I too have been having tons of problems with primers being smashed or going in sideways. It is especially bad when loading 40. I have read every thread there is on the subject and have been trying to fix it for years to no avail. Has anybody ever figured out where exactly the problem occurs? Is it when the primer goes into the slide or when it goes into the case? Considering there are so many aftermarket parts out there for the 1050, that nobody has come up with a solution for the primer problem is beyond me. If I were making aftermarket stuff that is where I would start because that is the only real problem this machine has... if you ask me.
  10. Mark 7 1050 Autodrive

    I'm curious and have a few questions 1. When changing calibers how does one go about determining the tightness of the shell plate? I always cycle the press slowly and if I feel too much resistance I loosen the nut. What is the procedure for this with the Mark 7 installed? 2. Do the new ones ship with the EMI filter for the casefeeder or does that have to be ordered separately? 3. Do you guys use the DAA powder funnel? I don't because I do not like the "thump" feeling when the case slips off the funnel. I hardly do not have a bullet that does not tumble during indexing, so I figure I will have to use the DAA funnel. I do not see it mentioned in connection with the Mark 7, so I am curious to know if people are using it or doing something else to keep bullets from toppling over.
  11. Nitro Fin...Who uses them

    Sorry for the hi-jack! Were you able to fit the extended STI mag release paddle on your SVI mag release? Interested in knowing if its possible or if I have to get another magcatch at the same time.
  12. I´m about to order some springs from Wolff but cannot find any comparison info on the difference between these 2 types of springs. The conventional spring is pretty much self-explanatory but the one that Wolff lists as variable, is that the braided type that comes with the gun from the factory, or something entirely different? The conventional springs go from 14lbs to 24lbs whereas the variable ones go from 10lbs to 19lbs. I´m guessing both types work with the factory guide rod?
  13. Which hammer spring to use with E2 grips?

    All the stuff is there, just need a softer spring.
  14. Which hammer spring to use with E2 grips?

    I was about to order some hammer springs to a P226, so I have them when the gun arrives. On Wolff´s home page it says that the newer type gun with the plastic spring seat will need the newer and shorter hammer spring. I plan on installing the E2 grips when the gun arrives. Does that change anything in regards to the hammer spring?
  15. Czechmate Reliability

    My friend had a Czechmate! The barrel cracked at the same spot! Believe he got a replacement. The had under 8000 rounds through it!