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tollarja

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About tollarja

  • Birthday 12/26/1980

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    Puyallup, WA
  • Real Name
    Jeff Tollar

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  1. Be careful of heavy bullets in short barrels because they may not have enough velocity to stabilize. My 18" shot 75 Hornady terribly. Turns out they were marginally stabilized at 2500ft/s with 1:7.8 twist. Try the Berger twist rate calculator, remember 16" is short so you'll lose a lot of velocity from book load data. My rifle also hates Hornady 68's so it could be Hornady. It absolutely loves 69gr SMK's, which sucks because those are expensive.
  2. Dang it, I cracked it in half when I tried to use pliers. It's threaded. It must have jammed tight when I broke the pin.
  3. Hi, I broke my decapping pin. I have a new one and can't get the expander ball off. It's stuck on tight like it might be seized threads. Any tips?
  4. Thanks, that'll help get me shooting for a while.
  5. Sorry to dig this up, but I had to put my two cents in. Lighter bullets have greater recoil because it takes more powder (energy) to get them to a greater velocity to be at the same PF (which is really just momentum multiplied by gravity and divided by 1000). Using conservation of momentum at the same PF and including powder mass, which is the important part, we can see that this is true. Momentum equation: Momentum Gun = Momentum bullet + Momentum Powder MassGun*VelocityGun = MassBullet*VelocityBullet + MassPowder*VelocityPowder 147: mg*Vg = mbVb + mpVp MomentumGun147 = SameBulletMomentum + (lower mass of powder)(lower velocity) 124: mg*Vg = mbVb + mpVp MomentumGun124 = SameBulletMomentum + (greater mass of powder)(greater velocity) MomentumGun124 > MomentumGun147 By inspection we can see that the powder mass ejected is the most important part of the felt recoil and that the slide momentum will be higher with the lighter bullet with greater powder.
  6. Just adding my input because someone else might look in this post. There are two square tabs on the trigger safety that would hang up on the trigger when I put my finger on it. Slight adjustment with a razor solved the problem for me.
  7. Well, I think I end up ahead, but it is hard to tell because occasionally things go wrong. The problems seem to come in groups. I am getting quicker at diagnosing the problem and I think I have had just about every problem. I can get around 100 rounds in 13 minutes when it is running smooth. I used to do this in 20 minutes before the case feeder. I'll do around 200-300 rounds clean and then have a batch when everything goes wrong. I lose a lot of time if it is something new or complicated like a feed tube brass jam and I'll end up with around 300 in an hour which may not be faster than before. I would say if you are lucky like TGibe or mechanically inclined then this is a good investment. If you don't like the hassle of refining it I would skip it. I feel I am getting closer and closer to getting all the kinks worked out. Here are a list of problems I've had and my solutions. I think my 550B or feeder were out of spec from the beginning because I had to dremel the feeder bracket hole about an 1/8" so that it would fit my machine. 1. Brass does not enter resizing and depriming die. Make sure that the part that pushes the brass does not push so far that at speed you can see the brass tip towards the center bolt. When it releases at speed it will sometimes rock and slide out enough that it will not go in the die. 2. Brass falls on side and gets skewered by depriming pin...don't know yet. I suspect that every once in a while a case falls in upside down and just tips over when pushed into position. 3. Handle hits housing. I tried adjusting everything, but ended up filing the feeder housing corner down until it didn't hit. 4. Primer rod rubs on case feeder caliber adapter and popped in and out of pulley/wheels. I knocked the pin on the primer arm wheel so it would have better alignment, but what really solved the problem is using case lube. There is very little friction when resizing now and I think there is less torque in the machine due to the reduced force required. I notice it doesn't even come close to the spot it used to rub on. 5. Brass jam at the top of the feeding tube. Put some double sided tape where the top of the brass hits to slow it down so it has a bit more time to rotate and fall vertically. Thank you Chris F. 6. Switch doesn't shut off the feeder. I put a kink in the bottom of the metal part that contacts the brass so it puts more pressure on the switch. The machine will drop one or two cases now rather than three, four or overflow. 7. Brass wedged in the metal part of the feeder tube before the switch...I think this had something to do with the overflow problem. Cases would back up and then get wedged in hard when I operated the machine and the tube system moved.
  8. Finally remembered that I wanted to give this a try. I did ten runs and got an average of 8.66. I missed by less than an inch four times only, two of which I was trying to go faster just to see what I could see. That half second penalty normalized those times, so I am not too worried about how it affected the average. I saw some interesting things; I tend to be very predictable, the draw is around two seconds at that distance and my splits were around 0.8. The time was long enough that my eyes would lose their focus near the third pass, possibly due to oxygen usage. I would pause a bit more on occasion to see the front sight clearly, but it wouldn't happen that late. I think this has also been happening on long distance steel lately. I am working on snapping my eyes to the next spot before the front sight gets there. It seems to help when I forget I am trying to learn to do that. When I remember it feels clunky and slow. This is a good drill and has been very helpful so far. We'll see what I can do once I start to get used to it and I get part II from be.
  9. not speed and make sure your license is current if you do...
  10. Shoot 'em both. I think you will appreciate the ergonomics and the ability to configure the M&P to your hand. I can't speak to the reliability as I shoot a G34, which has been excellent, but I have only shot 15,000 through it so far The slide action has finally smoothed out...some are finished pretty roughly (Oh how I miss my HK, but I digress) The only thing I can think of that nobody has mentioned is the glocks have a significant "clunk" when the trigger is released and you know and feel when the gun is ready to fire again. This is nice if you reset your trigger like you are supposed to and I'm told the key to shooting glock quickly is reset, reset and reset. The M&P's reset is barely noticeable, at least to me. As to pointability, who among us could pick up a pistol and point it in perfect alignment when we first learned to shoot? Not I. We all learned our index and it is the same with the glock. Once it breaks you in it will be fine. Oh, if you have a "husky" hand like I do, you may develop twin callouses where the slide occasionally rubs hand fatness. My heart says join the dark side, but my brain says you will probably like the M&P. Oh, one more thing; with guns barrel length doesn't really matter (That's what she said). I shoot the same groups with my 5.3 inch glock as I did with my 3 inch compact HK.
  11. If anything I think we both err on the side of too much bell. I am confident that is not likely to be the problem. He is getting the competition die and the factory crimp and we will see what, if anything, will solve the problem.
  12. We both use mixed brass. Josh will have to tell you if specific brands cause more problems then another, because my factory crimping die makes all the problems disappear. I think it is just covering up the problem though.
  13. We have looked at the round through every stage and the round looks fine after it is seated before crimping and then comes out bulged a little less than 50% of the time.
  14. My bad I don't know how to post pictures with my new phone.
  15. My friend and I have recently started reloading MG. JHP and both of us have experienced problems with the case gauge and barrel checking finished rounds. On some of the bad rounds it looks like the bullet is being loaded off center. We have looked at the rounds after each station and have narrowed it down to the crimp station. My friend is using Dillon dies and I was using a Lee. I have switched to a Lee factory crimp and don't have the same problem anymore, but it shouldn't be that way. One thing I have observed is that there are some very sharp edges on the base of the JHP when compared to the MG CMJ and I notice more bullet print through on the case even on good rounds. The crimp is set to Dillon specifications. The pictures below show the asymmetrical bulge.
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