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hovbuild

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Looks for Range

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  1. Thanks guys.No power factor needed. I am going to work up loads for two .38 revolvers that belong to my buddys wife and daughter. He wants to make sure they will be armed with guns and loads they can handle confedently..I intend to do the work ups and when I find one they like I will teach him and guide him in reloading his own..He is a very good competitor and instructor. Doesn't at the moment have the time to figure what to use so he can stockpile the components. I just might sell him my 550 and get a 650 with a .45 case feeder. Again Thanks, Bill
  2. I'm looking for a light to mediun load using lead...The powders I have on hand are, wst, aa2, bullseye, lots of unique and some 231. Also will the powder die on a 550 in 9 mm have to be changed? Thanks, Bill
  3. I run unique in 255 and 225. The 225 load will not burn clean enough 5.5 and under. 5.8 just right for shooting paper. A lead TC at 1.20 is good for about 780-810 fps and can shoot 1" groups at 30 feet.
  4. Good morning, I thought I'd give you an update. I shimmed the cylinder .003 ( as much as I can go without affecting trigger pull) and it still missed one out of fifty. I had the longer factory firing pin in the gun for about a year (.494) and never had a problem. I had a clyinder and slide .504 pin in the drawer so I installed this and went through the inners making sure there was no binding. The other day a ran 15 clips through it and it was fine. I also noticed that the pull weight was at just under 6#. Thanks agian for all your help . Bill
  5. I run 255 running about 900 FPS in my 625.....I struggled with bullet walk until I threw the FDC away. Also make sure your lead is .452 and don't put too much flair on the case.
  6. Great help thanks. I have run real heavy loads ( 225 pf) for pin shoots. I think it put a little ware on my buddy. The firing pin was .003 + shorter than the new spare I have..They were the same when I installed the first one with a reduced spring they were factory replacements for the newer 625. They are .493 and .496... I have a real long pin in the draw .506 but I think these are the ones you can't dry fire, I think..Getting old and trying to remember were stuff is and what is is for can be a challenge ..LOL Also the strain screw shows a little wear so I will change that out when I get one. I also got a new reduced power main spring but I was under the impression that all leaf type springs don't lose power but I could be wrong. When I get the new one I will try a the old screw to see if there is a difference between old and new. Tough finding all these parts in one place for sure. Most on Midway, some cylinder and slide and then the shims from KLN shims.
  7. Walter do you know what spec is? I ordered 2 .002 and 2 .003 shims.
  8. Well I checked the end shake measurements and this just might be the problem. Pushed foward .001pushed back .0075. Also the barrel and cylinder have a 1/2 .001 differance left and right. I orders some shims... Bill
  9. Thanks for the help. There is no end shake that I can tell. Strain screw is square and clean. I will check the firing pin spring later though. As far as the hammer dragging it was shimmed and seems like it is the same as when I did the work on it.. I'll order a new spring and a firing pin. Good to have spares anyway. BTW I hate cleaning the pockets anyway, thanks for that. Again thanks, Bill
  10. I have my 625 with a 6.25 lb pull that has been very reliable for the last 10,000 rounds. It has a reduced main spring and is smooth as glass. It just started missing two out of fifty. Strain screw is tight, no binding, single action will fire the misses in double. Only thing I can figure is that I have been a bit lazy and the last 10 or so times the brass has been reloaded I have not cleaned the primer pockets. I also use just the same brass for the 625. I hand seat fed 150's, the firing pin was an extended one and I cleaned the area were the hammer contacts the frame. I did the trigger job myself about two years ago, maybe it's time to have Mike work on it. I will do another fifty and clean the primer pockets to see if it will help.
  11. I thought this and switched to jacketed levels still high..Quit using indoor ranges the levels fell below normal rather quickly, went back to lead and stayed outside the levels remained below normal...I reload 50,000 rounds of lead a year.
  12. The more shooters and classes at a pin shoot the more a 9 is useless for this game.
  13. hovbuild

    DAWSON FRONT SIGHTS

    Now I understand!!You say that the roll pin that retains the sight also retains the bushing for the barrel. It doesn't look like it does but I am old and can't see worth a damn...I'll just drill the sight with a #47 and stick the roll pin back in..With the set screw, roll pin and a gallon of locktight I should be ready to go... BYW MY gun has a high round count and getting a new barrel bushing would be the bomb!!!! But the barrel to bushing fit is tight but the slide is a bit sloppy.....Thanks eerw
  14. hovbuild

    DAWSON FRONT SIGHTS

    I didn't notice a bushing when I pushed the pin out...is the bushing two pieces or does it get installed after you drill to make the notch in the sight? It was a bear getting the new sight to seat all the way rearward..Maybe the bushing was still in.. Thanks I'll go and look to see if it is still in.. Bill
  15. hovbuild

    DAWSON FRONT SIGHTS

    Sorry I wasn't clear enough. I didn't use the roll pin and I do have a #47 drill bit. The sight fit so tight and with a bit of loctight thought the added security of the set screw more than enough. The less I touch any gun with a power tool the better. Bill
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