Macca

Has anyone got a printable template file - pdf, .doc etc etc thats a template for cutting grip tape for an STI 2011 frame? Cheers..

So....can cases be reloaded in 9 major or are most of them usually had it? (yeh I have heaps...but i'd still go through it in a few years)

Yep....major is about 160ish...but you might want a bit more to account for load variation due to conditions and chronographs...... even still.....what about wear and tear etc?

Hi all, looking at purchasing an STI Trubor to shoot Open Major. Now being that I'm 'down under' and nothing over 40cal exists many still shoot 9mm and shoot major, many others shoot 38 super. What are the pros and cons of getting a trubor in 9mm and 39 super. Obviously 38 super I can get to major more easily? but then I have garbage bins full of 9mm cases. I've been told to avoid 9mm cause it will cause undue pressure on the gun and ruin cases....how true is that? I have to balance against new reloading dies, new cases etc etc if I go 38 super but it may be a much better option? Being that I'm relatively new to IPSC i'm thinking that i'd like to be competitive at club level and able to compete but not worried about being seriously competitive in the next couple of years (if ever).....I just want to have fun and not get embarrassingly beaten. Appreciate any advice on offer.....

Yes I do but it always seems to chamber the first round when using the slide release

Well now.... I am suspicious about this too having looked at the extractor the tolerance for a case is extremely tight.... But I am unsure how to remove it from the slide to change the tension.... Can you describe the correct method?

I wish but I can only find 13 and 15 round mags?? which sadly are illegal in Aus. Hmm...I think I have one or two SIG 9mm 10 round magazines laying around that I will never use. Do you know if it would be legal for me to ship them to AUS? My x-5 is 357sig, and would require 40 cal in any case I would probably have to get an import permit etc but thankyou very much for the offer

I wish but I can only find 13 and 15 round mags?? which sadly are illegal in Aus.

Hi all, I have an X-5 allround in 357sig that is feed jamming....now I think its a magazine problem as the only mags I have are a couple of mags from promag that are really P226 mags..... Anyone else had issues with using P226 magazines in an x-5 allround? or had jamming issues with the allround? whats happening is the rounds are getting pushed up into the top of the chamber probably at a 30-40 degree angle and locking the gun up....I've tried altering oal, crimp etc on the rounds....its definitely a feeding issue and if I push slightly on the mag the rounds seem to feed ok Reason Im not using the mags for the gun are germany sent me 15 rounds mags which are illegal here in AUS and had to be sent back and as usual SIG is taking a lifetime to send 10 round mags back. anyway...if anyone has encountered this or has suggestions for modifying the mags let me know...but I'm thinking its probably the slot on the P226 mags from promag aren't in the exact spot for the x-5 allround?

Hi guys, need to load some ammo for a vintage pistol match where Im planning to shoot an old broomhandle mauser chambered for 7.63x25mm....has anyone done some loading for this cartridge? The bore is .308....manual lists .3095 as nominal projectile size....would I be able to use .314 .32 cal projectiles or would that be pushing it way too much? otherwise has anyone ever resized hardcast lead? is it doable?

Traditionally I have almost always loaded on progressive presses,......mostly Dillon, and more or less done zero brass prep except chucking split cases or removing a burr from maybe one in a thousand cases that I happen to notice etc. Lately I've been looking at some of my, loads and wondering if I can squeeze a little accuracy for more bullseye type shooting. As I do it for long distance rifle loads I thought I'd experiment with uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes of 100 new cases and trimming them all down by .001 or .002" so they were all identical in length. I honestly noticed a reasonable improvement in group size.....maybe as much as half an inch ..... And to be honest found the flash holes and primer pockets in the brass to be quite varied... In fact one or two would have had to crush a primer to seat it properly and this is brand new Winchester brass! Makes me wonder..... Does anyone else bother with uniforming their brass when it's brand new?I still probably wouldn't bother for most types of shooting, but for distance work it seems to help quite a bit....more than I would have expected.

Pretty much...... What I do is have a bucket that's to be loaded next until that runs out then I load them all again...... Just means they've all be shot sane number of times so they wear reasonably evenly

I have some 9mm brass that been used for minor type power loads since 1999 and I'm still loading it...... I've lost count but given that there's About 4000 cases and I shoot about 10000 a year that's still a lot of loading .....Some of them you can't even read the headstamp properly

I would recommend the redding pro crimp die but in all honesty my dillon and lee dies crimp perfectly well too. However, despite the cost I am highly impressed with the quality of the redding dies for all steps including sizing, seating, and crimping. My ammo has been flawlessly consistent since I made themove to redding dies something which the other dies never quite achieved to the same degree of consistency.

Get the redding competition seating die regradless in my honest opinion.....it is well worth the expense. Not only will it seat any bullet profile to the correct depth, but it will do it without risk of damaging the bullet or marking it in some way if it doesnt fit the seating stem and is an absolute breeze to adjust should you wish to try something new every now and then and then just flick it back to the preset setting for your fav load.... I own dies in pretty much every conceivable brand....I now only buy redding comp dies