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stockton

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  • Birthday 02/19/1971

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    Scott Stockton

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Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. MG JHPs also do not have an exposed lead base. The MG CMJs are round nose, completely encased. There is argument that the JHPs are more accurate and they also seem to be the most used. 124gr JHPs are most common in my experience.
  2. John, I can't seem to load the video. I'm the guy RangerTrace mentioned. Started my son Aidan at four on a custom .22 "open gun", moved him to an iron signed .22 at 6, and had him start shooting a full size 9mm STI Open gun with 145 PF loads at 8. Most of the comments here are spot on so far and you already figured out safety is lesson one. Cross dominance is tough with an iron sight gun. Some people are not strongly one eye dominant and you could possibly train her to bring her right eye to dominance. Do some practice sessions with tape over her LEFT eye, not the right. It will be VERY awkward at first but after a few k rounds, she might be able to have it switched. Also, feel free to PM me here or friend me in FB. Be warned on FB though, I am very vulgar and use it mainly for trolling- I take too much joy in messing with people.
  3. Try next size up barrel link. Should get you there as long as you have upper lug clearance.
  4. Also you can relief cut with 1/4 end mill first. This saves a little wear on the more expensive dovetail cutter.
  5. Borrow someone's Aftec and see if that solves problem. If so, you've to it narrowed down. Then decide how to proceed. SVs are EXCELLENT guns...I've got one and there are at least another dozen or so in our club. They are built TIGHT and take some time to loosen up. A new barrel will require some breaking in as we'll so the barrel feet and lugs finish mating in. With all that said, I am NOT a big fan of conventional extractors- even SV's. I run Aftecs in all my 1911s and feel they are a superior design. The spring cup setup simply allows for a wider variance in case rims.
  6. Ok...my two cents. A lighter spring MIGHT make the gun shoot softer or track better. Depends on a LOT of factors. I think most people have a tendency to think "if a little lighter is better..." Well, you get the rest. So, here's an easy way to think this through...imagine a 30 lb recoil spring. When the guns goes bang, there is going to be a LOT of resistance to the slide after the gun unlocks. This will result in a recoil impulse that is VERY strong on the front end of the backstroke, right after the gun unlocks. Lots of sight lift. (Ignore for a moment that anything under about a 220 PF won't eject!). A lot of people talk about the sight "snapping" back down. I am not sold on this concept because it connotes the sights lifted so much as to need a snap back. Now, the other extreme...a 5 lb recoil spring. Almost no resistance right after unlock. HOWEVER, the plug tunnel will beat up against the GR head HARD and will create a big END of recoil backstroke impulse/lift. This eventually can lead to a cracked plug tunnel, GR head, or frame. Optimally, you want a recoil spring that perfectly absorbs the recoil impulse, completely stops the slide right as it barely kisses the GR head, then adequately strips the next round and returns the gun to battery with he sights right where you want them. Now, like I said, LOTS of factors influence what leads to this last, perfect condition. YOUR build, YOUR stance, YOUR load, how YOUR gun is timed, etc. etc. etc. Here is good advice I stole from someone but cannot remember whom. The RANGE for a spring for a major .40 five inch gun would be somewhere between 9 and 16 lbs. Get one spring of each and a BUNCH of YOUR ammo. Run 3-4 Bill Drills at 7 yards with a USPSA target on a timer. Shoot them as fast as you can, but only break the trigger when you can SEE the A zone (aimed shots only!). Any run with an errant shot, reshoot. Add times for all you runs with that spring. Change to new spring rate and repeat. Whichever gives lowest total time should be your optimal. It will most likely be the spring that gives you that near perfect recoil stroke.
  7. Don't do aluminum FRAME if using for competition. Not meant for that kind of round counts. Good for carry though. Aluminum GRIPS are a different matter. New ones from STI sound VERY promising and I have played with a gun that has one. VERY nice. Now, just need to see what it looks like 10-15k rounds in!
  8. Gun was adopted for mounted Calvary. Army spec'd a lanyard loop and grip safety too. Purpose of half cock notch is to prevent accidental discharge if hammer hooks sheared. Original half cock was more of a "hook" style. Changed with series 80 to current design. Different hammer manufacturers have slightly different designs, but all mostly work the same.
  9. Mobil 1. Not temp sensitive. Pick viscosity you like best. No point in spending $$$$$$ on esoteric lube that works no better.
  10. Picture of extractor hook would be helpful. Possibility of bent EJECTOR also exists. Another idea wold be to swap extractors to see if problem still exists to narrow down.
  11. 9mm pros: my back doesn't hurt. Brass cost is not relevant. 9mm shooters don't police their brass so they have to buy 1x (yeah, suuuuure) fired. That offsets the cost of the super brass you have to replenish periodically. .38 super pros: larger powder choices mean you can get a load a LITTLE more tailored to you. IE, "softer" shooting. However, that isn't exactly the case. It's the same, the 9mm just is more "violent." I surmise due to higher pressures. Using 9mm isn't gonna hold you out of M or GM. (Me = GM...on the good days at least.) 9mm seems to be catching up. I suspect that its because we are getting lazier. Opefully, we'll see more powders coming t market to supply the demand.
  12. Don't cut recoil spring either. Will then have feed problems. Been there done that.
  13. Do NOT. It's a blowback design and too much lightening will change the "lockup" time. Kit specifies high velocity ammo. Use that.
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