fritzthemoose

HI, if I want to change the Bolt Head on a Savage LA 470 to a 540 is it only replacing the Head or something else too Or asked differently is, besides the bolt head, a LA in 470 the same as in 540 and the head can simply be swapped or does it need machining?

Uronen Low Mass Steel 170gram Uronen Low Mass Alu 107gram

I am shooting a MKA 1919 as it does have a rail it would be easy to attach. As I have my OKO on 45 degrees left there is more or less the whole middle rail available. I would need a 8 to 9cm offset if mounted in the middle. Not sure how much a slug drops at lets say 25m but overall I asume that I have to compensate for at least 10cm (offset + drop). Now I do know that flip up BUIS sights dont have a vertical adjustment for the most part. Meaning I would have to do it via the front sight. Main question for me is if I could zero with a BUIS or if the adjustment range is not enough. Yes we do have shots like that frequently and its not a hard shot. Do it with my rifle all the time but there I have a scope in the middle and a reddot 45 degrees left. Shooting everything up to 50m and larger targets between 50 and 100 with the dot and if for example there is a clay I just use the scope. Works great but the scope does block my fov. So shooting from right to left no problem at all but from left to right not so good. thats why I was thinking of the flipup sights as fov in shotgun is even more important.

Hi anyone any idea what the vertical and horicontal adjustment range in moa for a BUIS is?

I was just at a match where we had to hit 2 clays on around 25m standing without support. Most hit them with 2 or 3 shots most I did not alt all. They scored the clays 2x. Meaning that you got 10 points each but also 2 miss each. So instead of getting 20 points plus I made 40 points minus. We are frequently shooting stationary clays with slugs at distances up to 30m or poppers up to 70m. I was thinking of zeroing it just left like you suggested but have to test how that affects shooting with birdshot on overlapping plates/ns plates. There are frequent shots where a no shoot plate is overlapping a target plate. I even already came across ground up shots cause the ns plate was more or less completely overlapping the target plate

it would be easier yes but would also mean some disadvantages. I would be using the OKO then only in maybe less than 10% of the shots I take during a match if at all. meaning I would loose the advantage of the reddot for the most part. It would also mean that the oko or whatever other dot has to be on a riser too blocking my field of view to the right while still having the issue with the adjustment range being maybe too small. thats why a flip up sight sounds tempting. Does not block the fov but should give more than enough accuracy for those rare slug shots where you need em and gets me on the same level with anyone who uses a ghost sight for example. remember that for any normal slug stage the oko as it is right now is plenty of good enough. It only becomes a problem if the tarket is very small like a fixed clay or if the targets are far away. If I am shooting normal paper targets no problem at all as a few cm left or right dont matter and if they matter than maybe 2 or 3 C instead of A over a whole match. I can live with that.

the problem would still be that I do need to know the distance to the target in order to adjust for the right to left flight path. if i have to shoot at a fixed clay just 2 or 3cm can make a big difference. on top of that I also have to adjust for the vertical flight path. that would mean that I might have to aim 5cm low and 3cm left or something like it and then only if I know the distance and my ballistics. I think its more practicalbe to just have to adjust for vertical especially as a popper is quite long so as long as i am on it it does not matter so much if I hit it 10cm higher or lower but as the popper is quite narrow 10cm left or right would make a big difference. Or with a clay I just have to aim above for example and not above and left or right. I think mounting a buis is a good idea if I would just know if the adjustment range is big enough considering that I would need a riser of at least half an inch maybe more.

As I am shooting right handed with my left eye I am using OKO-dot mounted 45 degrees on the left side. So at 10:30 o clock so to speak. That works great for me with the exeption of slugs on precision or long range targets. I have zerod it at 20m with slugs but if shooting on small targets like clay (fixed) or on long distances like 50m or so it is hard to impossible to hit or it takes several shots to hit. up until my zero distance the slug will be right of the aim line and after it will be left meaning that I not only have to adjust for vertical but also horizontal deviation. Those shots are rare in matches but if they happen I can more or less forget about this stage. So I am thinking of mounting a dedicated slug sight in the traditional position meaning on the center rail. In order not to block my field of view I was thinking of a flip up iron sight. However, in order to be able to see through it with my left eye I need a higher offset than usual. Meaning I would have to put a riser under the flipup. Now the big question would I be able to zero it with slugs at lets say 25m or would the adjustment range not be big enough? Anyone any ideas?

Do you have contact information for the factory, that you would share? http://www.xnarms.com/contacts.html thats how I contacted them. Good luck

Just write them if its factory parts. I had the locking block break at the Cent European Shotgun open a few weeks back. Had to stop on the second day. Anyway, wrote them with pictures attached. The next day had a parts list. Marked on the list which was broken also marked some more parts I wanted to have as replacement just in case. The next day they mailed all the parts. Each part twice for no charge. Even the parts that were not broken and I just wanted to have as spares. Also had the pre-xn drive block broken. Matt from Tooth and Nail also send 2 for no charge without questions asked biggest advantage of the mka over the saiga or the molot is that you can get parts easy fast and cheap

So you're opposed to the free dissemination of information in the internet age? I think it is just a change of times. When I was living in the US for a few years which was before 9/11 many things that seem to be accepted and even wanted this day and age would have resultet in a huge outcry or would have been plainly unthinkable.

Did you happen to get the final determination from DDTC? I'm a little surprised that it wasn't determined to be EAR99, much like the Panteao DVDs. sorry I am not so familiar with the nuts and bolts of ITAR. The information came from Brownells.

that s not true. what you describe is the entry pupil. I know that most manufacturers use this as exit pupil but its plain wrong. I would also mean that the cheapest china scope for 10 bucks is as good as a 3000 bucks high end scope. exit pupil differs widely. Swarovski for example lists it for the 1-6 with 9,6mm at 1x mag and not 24 like it would be if we just use what u described. This is like half of what my tac30 has resulting in a far smaller eyebox Then what is the formula that makes up exit pupil? I spent a little time searching and everything I've found supports the formula I listed. The only mention of entrance pupil I've found at first glance seems to have more to do with parallax and true center of the image transfer. Exit pupil, as I understand it, is just the size of the beam of light that is transferred. It has nothing to do with the quality of the image. Your comparison using the Chinese scope makes no sense. Plenty of other factors go in to scope quality. Exit pupil does not define scope quality. You've got glass quality, tube construction, lens coatings, lens shapes & erector construction to consider (just to name a few things). I've never really even considered exit pupil as a factor when looking at a scope, other than buying scopes with large enough objective lenses to transfer the light I need at the intended magnification. My 22x scopes only have a 56mm obj, but I know I can turn the scope down to transfer more light to my eye (by increasing the exit pupil) if I need to. Maybe I'm missing something, you metric guys may have a key that I don't know about. Please, explain what you understand exit pupil to be. Take a look on several different lets say 1-4 scopes (some manufactures do list it correclty but most dont) and you will see that the exit pupil differs. If the exit pupil could be calculated like you said, and I also do know what you are referring to then no matter what scope it would always be the same. and it would only determin how big the pupil is when the light enters the scope but not how big it is when it leaves the scope on the eye side. burris lists it calculated for the tac30 at 24 but i measured it lower. I dont know the details but something in the scope does effect the real exit pupil. It seems that the more magnification you have the smaller the exit pupil gets even at 1x. So a 1-4 has at 1x a bigger exit pupil than na 1-6 also at 1x No exit pupil does not say anything about scope quality but it is the only indication i found about the eyebox. a perfect eye can open up to 7mm or so. so any exit pupil larger than 7mm cannot be used by the eye for light transfer. however, the larger the exit pupil the less sensitive the scope is to proper head placement. and as I am shooting right handed with my left eye I want a scope that is the least sensitive as possible. I am happy to sacrify fov or other things for that if needed

shooting left handed would be fighting nature too a I am dominant right handed I was considering this but for several reasons its not an option for me You need one of those helmets the fighter pilots have that lets you see what the rifle sees no matter which way your looking. Pat no kidding I do know a guy who has one one of those for paintball lol

I just hope he does not get into serious trouble cause he talked to me at the shotgun world shoot