Dog Doc

Has anyone used the CCI #34 MilSpec primers? Would there be any reason to not use them? It's not that I am worried about slam fires but the extra safety is never a bad thing, right? Would the MilSpec primer hurt accuracy at all?(sorry if thats a dumb question!)

This was my point without explaining it well. If properly seated there should be not setback even before a crimp is placed. I know I didn't go into detail about the crimp but when I was starting with rifle loads I had read something on the forum that too much crimp would increase the risk of loose bullets. Something about this causing a "springing" effect on the brass leading to the case neck putting less tension on the bullet... or something like that. If you test the bullet before crimping you can rule out where your problem is occuring.

Thanks for all the input! My problem is that the brass is already primed..so a universal decapping die would not work. I have a variety of brass and the Lapua I would like to utilize as long as I can...and keep clean...dont really care about shiny but I like clean!! I have also been thinking about the Dillon trimmer!! I figured I would work some brass with the Possom hollow at least for now!

I thought about this but I worried that any moisture in compressed air could affect the primer.. Have you done this without it affecting primers? I will try it if this has been done with no effect on primers!

I am currently working on some .308 loads, and I am using my Dillon 550 in somewhat of a single stage type setting. I have loaded quite a bit with good success with new lapua brass and processed brass, but up until now I have not really got into the sizing/trimming side of reloading. My current thought was that I would size/deprime using the dillon FL die. The case would be lubed with Dillon case lube. I then measure and trim/chamfer/debur all brass with Possom Hollow gear. Following this I tumbled the brass in corn cob(Lyman) for about 20 min. to remove the lube. Here is the problem: Looking inside each case, 3 out of 10 cases had media stuck in the flash hole, and I couldn't get it out. So... what is recommended? I was planning on size/deprime/prime/trim/chamfer/debur a good quantity of brass to be ready for loading, but now I am wondering about waiting to tumble until after seating the bullets. So 3 questions: 1. What should I try to avoid media in an already primed flash hole? 2. If it is recommended to not tumble until the bullet is seated, can I leave case lube on brass for an undetermined amount of time before bullet seating? 3. Does case lube if not removed affect how tight the bullet is seated... meaning will the lube worsen risk of set back? Thanks in advance for any advice!

I am definitely new at this but I have read alot about this as I was having similar problems. Sometimes too much crimp can cause the problem. Somebody else can give you more information as to why this happens. Something you can try... Try to not crimp a few rounds and check for set back. This may help determine if its a problem with sizing or seating.

I have just used Lyman which is corn cob for some rifle rounds. I had sized/deprimed... then trimmed/chamfered/deburred... and then primed. Following this I tumbled to remove the case lube. I inspected each primer pocket and 3 out of 15 had media lodged down in the flash hole. Couldn't rattle it out either. Any recommendations? Wait to tumble until after bullet seating is my current thought but I am up for advice!

I wish I had more than 100yds to test my loads out!! Unfortunately there is nothing around here for that! It is such a frustration that I am thinking about taking a vacation just to shoot! I was thinking about Whittington center (1000 yd range) as soon as I get some consistent loads developed for my .308. I just want to go step by step all the way to 1000 just to see what it is like and learn more about what happens the farther out you get! I can read everything on the forum but in reality I need to try it myself! It is interesting that you mentioned ball powders vs stick powders and temp sensitivity. I was using Ramshot Tac in some of my loads and the results were much worse in the 90 degree temps than they were in 75 degree temps when I first started with the loads. Varget was great (go figure) but it did not meter well on the 550! So are the reloading manual velocities listed what I should strive for with the chronograph (obviously watching for pressure signs)? The chrono also gives you SD readings of a string of shots right? Thanks!

Hey all, I have just started to reload for rifle...(.223 and .308). So at this point I have just been starting low based upon an average of 3 manuals and working up to max... I have yet to see any signs of increased pressure, but am cautiously watching. I have a chronograph in route that I just ordered. My question is this... When trying to figure out the best load, should it be based upon accuracy, velocity, or an average of both. I just want to know how to progress when I get my chrono. Should the max velocity in the manuals be what I should not try to go over? I shot today with multiple reloads, and I have to say I felt the pain of temperature change on powders...I had a powder that produced 1" groups consistently at 70 degrees, and today... 3" groups at 100 degrees... Pretty discouraging...Wanted to add this, as I would like to hear if people can give any input on the variation with temp and if the chrono can help ( testing known loads in spring and summer to see variation...etc) Just want to know how to go forward when I get my chronograph... Thanks, Doc

Maybe I should revise my question! I guess the most information on the forum is on the c-more sts... So are there any of you guys that have used the trijicon rmr as a slide mounted optic, and if so how did you like it?! Thanks!

Hello all, I am thinking about a slide mounted red dot for the new glock 34... I do not shoot competition...yet! I am just trying to get different perspectives on sight alternatives. I have searched and searched on all the threads on this site but I wanted to see if there were any new opinions or recommendations... I figured I would post this before I buy!! I have looked at all the options, and if anyone wants to throw opinions on the JPoint I would like to hear it !! I wish I could play with all these locally but that is not going to happen, as none of the shops have em... Any opinions are greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance! Cmore STS and Trijicon RMR are my 2 favorites so far but I am open to any input!!

I am new to reloading, this forum and the 550... But when I called Brian that is what he recommended and I could not be happier!! I can use it as a progressive or as a "single stage"... To the OP... I was in your shoes about a year ago and I am so happy that I jumped into reloading! Granted there is alot to learn but you can gain tons of info here as well as all the reloading manuals. Maybe it is too soon for me to say I have had zero problems loading on a 550, but I personally think it has to do with how aware you are. I don't rush it and so far things have been great! My guess is you can screw up with any system you use...Its all in the attention you are giving to what you are doing...

So I am new to reloading rifle ammunition... I am using Scharch processed/primed .223 brass and Hornady 55gr FMJ w/CL. I started working up my first loads, and I had read on the forum here to just run the expander into the neck to make sure the neck is uniform. Well, first loads turned out really well, and I found a powder level that was the most accurate working up from the lowest recommended charge. What I realized though (beginner) is that I did not have the decap/expander going deep enough to actually have the expander ball hitting the neck. I did not have any problems seating the bullets but I figured I would reset the expander and do it the way that was recommended. So I made some test loads actually running the expander ball into the neck, seated bullet and lightly crimped. Afterwords I tapped the completed round on the table a few times... and I had significant bullet set back! I don't understand this... My crimp is still the recommended 0.002 less than the case neck. Can anybody give me advice? I have stopped working up my loads for now until I figure this out. I almost just want to use the processed brass without expanding as it seemed to go very well... But I am gonna have to reload my fired brass eventually. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for all the info so far guys! I really wish I could take every round I make and shoot it at multiple yardages but until I come up with other ranges, I am stuck at 100yds... I do have some 69gr Sierra BTHP that I am gonna work up as well, but I believe that is as high as I can go due to my twist rate... I need to confirm what the twist rate is as it is not labeled on the barrel, but my .223 is a Rock river with a Wilson match grade that I believe is 1/9 twist (need to confirm). I was just hoping I could work loads up at 100yds and they would work if I ever get the opportunity to shoot at longer ranges... This most likely will be a rare oportunity that I wont get very often! I can't believe Kansas has such limited ranges... Very frustrating!

I am in the process of working up my first round of rifle loads, and had a pretty good day with 55gr Hornady FMJ bullets and TAC powder. I live in an area that I only have a 100yd range to shoot right now, and I don't have a chrono yet... My question is this.. If I find the best load at 100yds, will this be the most accurate load at any range or do I need to work loads up for different ranges? I know a 55gr is not the best choice past 300yd, but as I continue trying different bullet combinations and powders.. Am I wasting time thinking I have a good load? I would love to be able to test things further out but it is not an option around here! Eventually planning on working up some Sierra 69gr HPBT as well in case I ever get the chance to try my luck at long distance but what does 100yd groups tell me?! Thanks!