BE Fred

Hello, I have a new M&P Core full size 9mm, gun came with two mags. Also have an "old" full size 9mm M&P which also hase two mags. The old mags work in new core but do not hold open slide on empty. Is there a way to modify? I do not see a difference but have not busted out the dial calipers...this is likely a common problem with a common fix (I hope). Thanks in advance for any thoughts and suggestions. Fred

I used the original Burris FF. If the FF3 has the click adjustments, it may merit can other look. Thanks for the heads up!

Well, I learned that sight will ship aprox. June 12! No wonder nobody has a comment.....nobody has one!

Yes, I also really like my full size eotech on my ar-9. What attracts me to the Mini Red Dot Sight (mrds) is the click adjustments on windage and elevation...This is the first little heads up sight I have seen to have this. I did order mrds from eotech. My new M&P CORE came with a coupoun for the discount price...it expired 4/15/2013, so if anybody gets one better rush if you want to take advantage of this seeminly good price ($335 shipped). Fred

Anyone have an EO Tech, MRDS sight? I have a S&W M&P 9mm CORE, it came with a half off coupon for an EO Tech MRDS sight. If anyone has pros/cons on this product please advise. Thanks, Fred

Anyone have an EO Tech, MRDS sight? I have a S&W M&P 9mm CORE, it came with a half off coupon for an EO Tech MRDS sight. If anyone has pros/cons on this product please advise. Thanks, Fred

Thanks

ARE YOU MESSING WITH ME?

I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard!

I purchased a wrench off of ebay a couple years ago. It was made of aluminum and produced on a CNC machine. It was great until it broke. Now I notice someone is making the same wrench in steel...but it is about $28 bucks plus freight! Still it did work nice. Below is a picture of wrench currently on one of the auction sites, "I have no dog in this race".

Thank you Steve.

I also think that if the press works well, let it. That being said, if I am loading for national matches, I go over all rounds with hand primer. I also use a test gauge. It may not need the extra effort...it is a mental thing. Shooting is 95 % mental and the rest is in your head! If it help your mental game do it.

My current reloading arsenal is: 2 Dillon 650 (1 small primer, 1 large). 1 RCBS Rockchucker (had this from the beginning, but no longer use it) 1 Redding T-7 I do load 223 on the 650 All other rifle is on the T-7, it is a great machine. My T-7 press gets all the rifle work, which is primarily hunting rounds. As well it gets the odd ball stuff, that I do not load enough to justify the caliber conversions, tool heads to bother with the 650. Universal decaping is on the T-7 also. I do have a second turret head, just got it and will be using it this winter. Shadowrider mentioned a station for a Grx....what is a Grx, I don't know what it is but I am pretty sure I will want one! Reloading does not save money, but you will shoot much more. Fred

A commercial reloader I know recommended this: Mink oil. It is a paste...rub a small amount on one hand and work the brass in a 1 gal bucket, two hands for a 5 gallon bucket. It does not take much and works VERY VERY well. I had a bad experience with a pump spray bottle of Dillon lube...I sprayed brass and then loaded too soon result was contaminated powder and apparent squib loads. This experience was not dangerous just irritating. The mink oil is all I use now. My second choice would be the Hornady spray

I should read these post more frequently. Came up with the same conclusion on my own a few days ago. Removed the bottom washer on both my machines and wire fits much better and no more occasional bind. Fewer parts making it better...go figure.