tim_w

I am 100% for using a powder check with alarm. No matter how careful you are it can and will happen. It's just about the numbers. I have gotten into the habit if my prefered die setup does not give me enough stations for a powder check, I run 2 passes. One case prep pass, second to load and finish.

It's not the gun/rds mechanically POA/POI or parallax even though some of the RDSs have TERRIBLE parallax (MRO as an example). It's usually recoil management of the person in the situtation presented. You will even see this shooting FTR Class 1k, especially 308 trying to use the heavy 200-230gr. Even with fancy bipod, rear bags, etc on a precision bolt gun. Shoot a few rds not coming off the rifle. Then stop, get up, reposition the rifle and yourself, put those crosshairs on the same spot and fire. You will likely see a small change in POA/POI. Even the slightest changes effect POA/POI relationship. Now, imagine with handgun going from fixed rigid bench support to freestanding with arms not supported at all. Recoil management is going to change significantly. How the gun moves on intial recoil will be different before bullet clears the muzzle.

Have to edit my last posted statement. I see Apex once again is stocking and selling the gunsmith barrels. Those are the only ones I personally would use. Just pick up their jig and file if you do not have the equip or a mill or surface grinder. Done plenty with files/stones.

I know this is a few month old . If that was my gun, I would pull the striker out. Clean out the channel in the slide. Look for any roughness or burs. Polish it up slick. Check out the striker and tip. I personally give the tip a light polish on all its sides as well so it will slide in easier.....hopefully. A little deformation to me is OK as the striker has no return spring but when it's gouging out the primer I look to clean things up. If that drag is accompanied by any rim deformation look at pressure and or recoil spring. Longshot is a great 10mm powder as is blue dot. The latter is so clean. The 10s are awesome guns IMO. Congrats!! Hope your still enjoying it.

As long as you have to fit the lower locking lug (feed ramp base) and the hood section you will see a very good accuracy. (Even better if you have to fit the muzzle. But less critical, IME) If it will drop in not as much. Mine were all gunsmith fit versions I fit to a tight lockup and they will both shoot 10x1"@ 25 using my bullseye load (115 hap VV330 5.0gr CCI 1.14" starline) from a fully supported rest. You can of course find a lighter load that's just as accurate with the 10 tw. That's actually my 50 yd load Awhich is a bit snappy. The better of the two guns can do 1.25 on a good day @50. 5" PRO, APEX parts, everything polished, slide to rail fitted. DPP mounted. I feel more precise with the triangle dot on the DPP for bullseye groups. I did these yrs ago when you could still get the gunsmith fit barrels. IMO it was a mistake for Apex to stop selling to them to the public. For me there is no way I am paying for a match barrel on any handgun if it does not have to be fitted at least at the lug and hood.

It likely had a stress fault or riser in it. Especially given the joint junction location. Opportunity to evaluate their CS which sounds as it went well.

Things that come to mind that are revolver specific. The variation in cylinder throat diameter and barrel groove diameter and the ratio and associative differences of the two between samples. Rev 1: 0.3585 throat 0.3550 groove 0.005 cyl gap Rev 2: 0.3580 throat 0.3585 groove 0.006 cyl gap Rev 3: 0.3578 throat 0.3590 groove 0.009 cyl gap Rev 4: 0.3595 throat 0.3560 groove 0.010 cyl gap Different Revolver samples will work better or worse with different bullets based on diameter hardness etc.. All comes down to how tight S&W held the tolerences on those specific guns on the various days the parts were manf and then again on the day they were assembled. Their tolerence spread that makes it thru their QC system is something you could drive a truck thru. Other effects like a barrel with a tight forcing cone groove diameter vs larger at the muzzle would effect all loads regardles same with damaged crowns ect.

What effect did the ext striker block have on trigger pull with the Apex FFFS kit? Wondering if it's radius is the same as the Apex given it being longer.

Guys it likely has to do with the locking lug to block fit. If the lug is not touching the block then accuracy is going to be meh. By squeezing tge fcu rails downward that pulls the slide down toward the frame. That I turn pulls the barrels locking lug closer to tge locking block it is suppose to be resting on. If you can vertically move the barrel at the hood without a full mag then the lug to block fitment is loose so the barrel is floating off that lug and it's soley the loaded mags tension holding it . Not good for accuracy. A gunsmith fit barrel allows you to fit that lug and the hood. This locks the barrel in a repeatable position on in battery lockup. If it has a loose hood and very worse the lug is not sitting flush on the block you will get variation in lockup and as you pull thru the trigger. Bullets go shotgun or shift with fliers This is similar to the large increases in accuracy that could be had in the SW 9 MPs using Apex bar sto gs barrels. Mine from a ransom will shoot consistent 10rd 1" @ 25yd with a number of loads. Guys on the bullseye forum have gotten poly p-07 to do the same adding metal to the lug and fitting it. Sounds like the same thing here. On glocks and MP I will very lightly pinch the slide frame rail closed (vertically) in the area on the frame blocks at lockup position. This keeps the slide in a consistent position to the locking block at the in battery position. This way there is very minimal movement vertically of the slide to frame rails in tge in battery position. Then I look at the locking lug fitment. If the legion has enough air gap between the slide and frame without a full mag then slightly bending the fcu rails downward and checking barrel lug lockup till you get a snug fit but cycles into battery on full release should get a consistent in battery lockup. Just remember tiny amounts of adjustment. There is no design reason the legions should not be capable of at least a min of 2"@25yd. It sounds like Sig opened up the spec on tge locking lug fitment from the x5 because of ignorant complaints about tight lockup. (What some of you are calling 'pretension")

Oh I am sure. Only pointing out how what should be to spec 5° is zero just a flat cut. As long as the cyl chamber lines up and throat size is good things are gtg. Was not meant as a knock on your pistola. Many of mine are the same way. BTW what model is that?

S&W really spent some time on that forcing cone. Nice 5° lapped smooth. :eyeroll: I usually soak it with carbon lead remover. Hit it with a nylon bristled brush. Wipe. Blow it off with compressed air. If there is any left in the seam or corner I use a dental pick. They also make them in nylon so they won't scratch as easily. Then follow up with more cleaner and finally a thin flip of lube.

It's good to know after all these years they addressed this. For the price of the new TS 2 Bronze, when it finally hits US shores, I sure hope the mag well is hand blended.

I have pin and welded AR barrels and removed a number too. You can only learn by doing things yourself if you want that experience and the responsibility that comes with it. That is how I learned much of it that others said it's experienced gunsmith only or the stupid cop out comment I hate " If you have to ask then no" grrr So if you want the experience so be it. Go slow and be conservative. If it was pinned properly the threads had a pocket drilled or plunged just below the minor to capture the pin. I used a slight interference fit pin slight recess and tig weld. Ground smooth and coated. Oh and just in case yours wasn't I always to do it on the underside 6 oclock of the barrel where it's not highly visible.. Seen a few that were done on top for some reason. I can see @ Itdmstr has as well from the look of some of those FS. If you pay careful attention to detail you can not even tell its been welded at all. Not always a good thing according to the ATF. Just remember after it's removed you have to replace it before you ever mount that upper again and really better have a pistol or undesignated lower in your ownership. You will need to pin-n-weld or silver braze the new one. With that understood...... I can tell you ADCO has a very good rep. I have known Steve's work for,has to be, 20+ yrs now. Has done countless (thousands) barrel profiling, chambering. Very popular for precision threading for suppressors. He has dealt with it all and if the threads happen to somehow be buggered from the pin-n-weld he can clean them up or recut depending on profile. He can also pin on the new one unless your going a pistol or nfa route. To me, unless you want the technical experience I would send it to Steve@ADCO let him remove and install the new one. Personally as a first one to remove and then pin and weld I would ideally chose a cheap $100 barrel not a match grade JP barrel. Good luck. If you choose to do it yourself post up some pics of the process and finished results. ETA: just saw the op date on this. Assume it's long been done. Need to pay attention when older threads are refreshed vs seeing them on in the recents.

As has been said dental picks and a good carbon remover.

Make sure it's fully insured as well.