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M Spangler

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    M Spangler

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  1. Thank you! I'll look into that. What type of compressor do younneed? Sounds like you charge the mags off the compressor right? I have a small compressor at home but an 80 gallon at the shop next door. I'll do some research on that. Any model suggestions? I'm thinking single stack because I have a 1911. Suggestions on the best supplier to deal with! Thanks again!
  2. Hi guys and gals. I'm looking to get a nice 1911 for some practice in the basement. Any suggestions? I read a few old threads suggestions TM or KWA but I know a lot has changed in the last few years. I want something to make "dryfire" practice a little more interesteing. Thanks guys and gals!
  3. I have 2 different length B powder funnels. I can't find reference to different sizes online. I have some spares that came with a press I purchased. One is the same length as the one in my .308 conversion kit. The other 2 are marked B but are longer. Any ideas? Thanks guys
  4. i have a ton of .223 waiting to be loaded, so can't speak for that, but i have done 3500 or so .308 loads with the dillon trimmer on a single stage and my 550b. i did it in two stages, brass prep then a load stage brass prep i set up a single stage press with the universal decapping die, decapped everything then i mass lubed in a bag with dialing spray lube then i set the trimmer up on the single stage and trimmed everything in one shot when that was done i ran them through the single stage with an rcbs small base die then they were all tumbled to remove lube load now i went back to the press with nothing in station one. just priming here powder drop in 2 bullet seat in 3 without crimp (168MK) nothing in 4 with the 223 i'll go back and do it a little different. i'll add a step and put the decapping die in station one when its time to reload, to help poke out the stuck media, and add in a step to the prep where i swage primer pockets if need be, and add in crimp if the bullet needs it i mulled it over a few times and tried to figure the best way to keep from overworking the brass. i'm not shooting matches with the .308 and don't plan to so i figure i'll be getting most of it back and might as well keep down on the stress and save some brass life it seemed excessive to run it through the size die multiple times its a little back and forth from one press to another and may not work well if you're only running a few hundred at a time but i like running bulk this way. now i can have brass all sized trimmed clean and ready. then when i have some time to load it's just that, easy as loading pistol at that point. hope this helps, there are a lot of good ideas here and it all depends on the volume you plan to do in one sitting, what press or presses you have and if you care about recovering brass or not. good luck!
  5. i received a 550 in a trade and used it for about a year before i sent it in for the dillon overhaul. i wish i sent it in earlier, they did an amazing job. if i didn't know any better i would say they just gave me a new machine. they set me up with new powder bars, new primer feed bars, and a whole new powder measure. it was around $250 of repairs and parts on the invoice, all credited back down to the 47.95 charge for the overhaul. amazing company. if anyone is considering an overhaul go for it!
  6. pick up some edible silicone grease. i guess it's used on SCUBA equipment. dive shops sell it cheap in little jars or tubes. you can also pick up the same stuff from a restaurant supply as a food grade lubricant. i use the stuff on knives all the time, especially when neck knives were big, it work like a charm to leave a thin coat of protectant that didn't easily rub off, and bonus it won't kill you if you eat it.
  7. forget knifekits and texas knife. the knife making supply companies buy items like this and charge a premium, just like the "gunsmithing" companies that sell simple tools like files and drill bits for way higher prices than what the you would pay from suppliers of the industry that uses them regularly. interstateplastics dot com this is the place to get the kydex, have them cut it to 1'X1' squares to drop the shipping way down. i use the .060" for sheaths, and the .093" for belt clips, it would probably work well for holsters too. i like the thinner stuff because it molds easier and shows a better impression, but when working with a a gun you have a thicker piece with way more definition, so it should show off the impression nicely. fastener-supply dot com check out the eyelets, stimpson GS. the sizing is in 32nd of an inch. so a 6/6 is a 6/32 diameter 6/32 long (3/16x3/16) the diameter is a preference, unless you want to use chicago screws, then you need to go with 1/4" or the #8 diameter. if you're using the .060" material you want to use the #6 length eyelets, and for the .093" material use the #8 length eyelets they have a few different finishes for the eyelets, get the black oxide if it's available at the time. you're going to want to buy some birchwood and casey brass black for touching up the eyelets, sometimes the black wears off when you're crimping them on also get the corresponding die set to crimp the eyelets on. don't get talking in to a fancy press or anything for the dies, drill a hole the diameter of the die shank in a piece of wood, and use that to hold the bottom die, the top die sits in the chuck of your drill press, no point in buying another tool when the drill press works perfect for it. use a large toaster oven for heating the kydex too. play with the temp, i find my oven set at a little over 300 works beautifully. for molding kydex, look on amazon for a camo hunting cushion. one of the hunting cushions thats a seat and back held together with straps most of the foam you find out there stinks, it doesn't hold up, and gets cut up by the kydex, ruining it permanently. these cushions can be found for about 5 bucks at dickssportinggoods after hunting season. cut them in to suitable sizes and glue them to some scrap corian or wood as a backing. the thin layer of cammo material will protect the foam from getting damaged, but is thin enough not to effect the definition of the mold the last piece i had like that lasted well over year. that's a long life for kydex molding foam you can make a press or buy a press, but if you have a vise in the shop you can use that too. the presses are over rated. tin snips work well for cutting the kydex, i use a bandsaw. then once molded i refine the shape with a 2X72 belt sander, but that can be done with just about any sander. i can't think of anything else right now. shoot me an email if you have questions. Spanglercustomknives@gmail dot com spanglercustomknives dot com sorry for the links, i guess i'm too new to post links
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