Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

DownUnder

Classified
  • Posts

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DownUnder

  • Birthday 08/28/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

725 profile views

DownUnder's Achievements

Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. Try seating a projectile quite a bit shorter and see if the problem disappears. Also, try a different projectile if you have any. Projectile ogive interference with the barrel may be an issue that is not showing on your tests.
  2. Download and print a blue tip protector for your primer system. It stops most of the problems caused by the fragile blue tip on the 1050 primer system. No more crushed tips, tipped primers, etc. Soft plastic, so almost no risk of a crushed primer detonating (which is also unlikely because primers now stay in the slide where they belong).
  3. What do you mean by messed up and bent out of shape? Sitting too high, or bent off to the side?
  4. Do a google image search for 2018 DVC racker. It was a racker that screwed into a hole tapped at an angle into the side of the slide. Maybe a variation of that would be simpler. Pretty easy to do if you can use a drill and tap.
  5. Does anyone have pics if they cut/filed their Bul frame to fit STI 2011 mags? Some of my mags go in fine, others catch a bit. Wiggling some of the mags gets the feed lip edge past where it catches on the frame. It looks like I could adapt the mag feed lips, but I am reluctant to do this when the mags are working 100% in STI/SVI frames. If it is a minor change/angle to the lower edge of the frame that may be the way to go. Exploring options at this point and some images would assist. Thanks
  6. On the 650 a primer is never moved back under the column of primers. If you want to use a brass tip on a 650 there is little risk of a primer being crushed. I'm not sure how the 650 is relevant to this topic, it does not use a reciprocating primer slide. On the 1050 a jammed primer can be dragged back under the column of primers and crushed between two hard surfaces if a brass tip is being used. Not a frequent event, but possible, which is likely the reason why Dillon does not supply a metal tip for the 1050. The plastic tip works, but is fragile. Put a soft guard in front of the plastic tip and it lasts forever. If anyone wants to recommend using a brass tip in the 1050 that is not the purpose of my post and I strongly discourage the idea. Anyway, make your own choices about brass tips, I'm happy with a softer option.
  7. The brass tip is a hard metal surface that can crush a returning primer against the hard metal slide, directly under the column of primers. Just saying. I'm pretty sure that is why Dillon uses the soft blue tip on the 1050/1100, whereas the other presses have a different priming action.
  8. The main problem in blue tip breakage on the 1050 seems to be when a primer that is not seated flush in the primer slide hole is drawn back onto the blue tip, resulting in crushing and damage. This can happen if there is no case in the shell plate above the primer station and the unused primer does not return flush into the slide hole (due to dirt or some other reason), or when a primer has been crushed during seating into a case (probably because of a crimped or damaged primer pocket) and the damaged primer sticks partially out of the slide hole. There is a very simple fix that has worked 100% for me and I have not replaced a blue tip since installing the fix several years ago. I created a plastic shield that sits close around the blue tip, but not tight. When a primer that is not seated flush in the slide hole is drawn back toward the blue tip it hits the front of the shield. This can re-seat a good primer that is sitting slightly high, or swipe a damaged primer out of the hole, or create a soft jam that the user can feel. There may be a slight risk of detonation if a lot of force is exerted on a jammed primer, but the primer will be well away from the primer column and any force on the plastic will be much less than force between two pieces of metal jamming together on a primer, as can happen if a user has a metal tip on the primer tube instead of the blue plastic tip. Offered for information only. I take no responsibility if you decide to use this idea at your own risk.
  9. Fixed. The index pawl adjustment screw needs to be just right, like Goldilocks. If the adjustment is out a little bit the index pawl can put a small amount of pressure on the shellplate or very slightly mis-locate the ball, enough to introduce a small amount of offset during the passage of a case up into the resizing die. I took all of the dies out except the resizing die and I watched the ball and felt with my finger on the shellplate how the ball positioned as I adjusted the index pawl. Once the sweet spot was found everything was back to normal. It must have moved a bit over time and exceeded the go/no go sweet spot.
  10. My Super 1050 is sizing about 40% of 38 Super cases off center. It has recently started doing this. Some cases size concentric, some cases have a scrape down one side where the resizing die has gone down the brass off center and these cases will not case gauge. Always the same position for the scrape, the quadrant nearest the case insertion station and toward the center shaft. Never the quadrant nearest the primer station. It seems that the shellplate is somehow being pushed back out of advancement by a small amount for some cases. The shellplate clicks into place in a positive manner with the ball. The resizing die has been tightened touching the shellplate with a good case in the station. The same problem is evident using a #5 or M plate with #3 buttons, so tightness of the shellplate slot does not seem to matter. Some cases size perfectly, some feel hard to pull the handle and they size off center. The cases have all been fired in the same chamber. Old and new have the same problem. It happens with all the dies in the tool head, or just the sizing die. Does the same with Dillon and Hornady dies. I have tried coating the front guide rod with marker and seeing where it touched, then tapping the front guide rod to centre it in the hole using voodoo and guesswork and there does not seem to be a lot of difference apart from more/less resistance in the guide. Is it likely to be something like the pawl adjustment screw needs to be in a certain position, or something else that is not obvious? I cannot see anything obvious and it does not happen on every case, so and I am hoping that someone else has had this problem and found a solution. I am suspicious that the guide rod is the culprit, but I would think that would be consistent, not random. All suggestions welcome.
  11. From Wikipedia - Common revolver models that are manufactured to use moon clips: Rare Ruger Speed Six variant in 9mm Parabellum, which uses half-moon clips to chamber the rimless cartridges Smith and Wesson Model 625 .45 ACP moon clips. 9mm Luger Charter Arms Pitbull S&W Model 940 S&W Model 929 S&W Model 986 Ruger LCR Ruger SP101 Ruger Speed-Six Taurus Model 905 Alfa Proj. 9200 series 10mm Auto/.40 S&W S&W Model 610 .40 S&W S&W Model 646 .45 ACP M1917 revolver Ruger Redhawk[4],[5],[6],[7] S&W Model 22 S&W Models 25 (for blue) and 625 (for stainless) S&W Governor
  12. The mount looks like it is mounted on an angle. Are you able to sight it OK for near and far targets? Say, sighted at 10m and still hitting fine at 40m? Most mounts are fitted with the holes drilled parallel to the frame edge - just wondering if the angle affects accuracy, or not. I agree with the others that a thumbrest is good for creating a consistent place to position your thumb but it is not the solution for controlling recoil. They way your hands meet and press together at the rear of the grip is much more effective for creating a consistent lock point that resists the gun pivoting or moving sideways in your grip. A thumb rest that is too far forward creates problems with consistent grip lock.
  13. 1050 press and 38 Super. With a Dillon die some of the cases seem to move a bit in the shell holder and are sized a little off centre and stick up in the gauge. With a Hornady sizing die there is no problem. Maybe it is the shape of the mouth of the die.
  14. A new STI DVC Open that I had came with a soft ejector. It bent while ejecting cases. Not hardened correctly. Try a new ejector first.
×
×
  • Create New...