Nowind0

Nevadazilmeister, Did you do any modifications to the receiver? Such as opening up loading ports. How about lifters, did you modify yours? The 3.5" magnums will definitely be bad medicine for those hard to fall plates.

I have a 1st Gen SBE with a 26" barrel that I picked up at a very reasonable price. Would this be a good candidate for multi-gun? If so, does anyone know if a M1 lifter and tube would fit? Thanks in advance.

I am starting to purchase parts for an upper build and plan on running a low mass BCG and a mid-length gas system. I have a couple of questions as I have never run an Low Mass BCG previously. 1. Is it required to run an adjustable gas block or is it just a nice to have. 2. I would like to run a slim handguard. (15" Vltor Freedom Rail) with a ID or 1.38". What Adjustable Gas Blocks would fit inside a rail of that dimension? Thanks in advance.

Just picked up my 2011 in 9mm built by Accuracy X and noticed that none of my 1911 holsters fit due to the full length dust cover, Dooh. Any recommendations? Will be mainly shooting 3 Gun so retention is a must. This is my first 2011, so any other recommendations are also welcomed. I have noticed that I am going to have a tough time reaching the slide release without changing my grip. Thanks in advance.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but is there any performance difference in the plastic vs. metal spacers?

The only issue at that range would be the speed. You need to check your ballistic calculator and make sure the velocity is still supersonic (about 1,300 fps). I would also be concerned with the FMJ as the back of the bullet has lead exposed and may cause issues with accuracy, but if the load groups 1 MOA at 100-200 yards, you may be okay. If not, try a match grade bullet as long as it is not a 168 gn SMK. They do not perform well past 600. As far as the lower SD, 10 is not bad especially in a factory rifle. Anything in the single digits is good for MOA at distance. You can sort the brass of you like. If you are using Lapua brass, you really do not need to uniform the primer pockets or flash holes, unless you feel better about doing it. You are going to get your biggest gains by changing primers (experiment with this. Wolf is good, and basically any match primer. I use CCI BR2) Also using the same lot of Varget. And neck tension is critical. Good luck.

The best way to check this is to measure a fired case from each rifle. I will bet you that the AR chamber is longer (from base of case to shoulder). You should also check our seating depth of your bullet. Makes a big difference in accuracy.

Just because of your username, I would go with the 6.5-284 out of the 3. But would consider the 338 Lapua if you really want to go Big Guns. Seriously, really curious on how you came upon those 3. Out of the 3, I would choose the 6.5 Creedmoor as you can use it for more than the other 2. Also 6.5-284 eats barrels, and the 6.5x47 is a little light for Long Range.

Steve at Accuracy X said that it was going in the bluing tanks last Thursday. He has sent me photos of it assembled in the white and disassembled in the bluing basket. So I would say within a week or so.

Geez, no wonder revolvers are so popular.

That's what I was thinking.

The builder is providing one stock mag with the pistol. I will try that out before I start investing in custom mags. Thanks

Thanks for the advice guys. It looks like by the time you purchase the mags and the added followers, springs and basepads, you are pretty much at the cost of the MBX mags.

I know this has probably been beat to death, but have not paid much attention until now. I am taking delivery on my first 2011 and I need some advice on which magazine tubes, basepads, followers, springs and magwell to purchase. This is for a 9mm. Thanks in advance for the help. Mike H.